First laser scanner

Computer PSU are big, but they're also convenient. In my own scanners I use dual voltage power supplies salvaged from networking equipment. I found several at a local surplus shop and they're perfect. They're also nearly brand new. They're nice to work with because they're just a circuit board. Really you can use anything that will supply the proper voltage of clean DC. Look around salvage or electronic surplus shops if you have any near you. You can also buy the type that I just described new from electronics parts suppliers like Mouser and Digikey.

What voltages do the SP20's run off of? Susie said they have a 250mW red that is te cooled. Ill probably get that..I think it runs off of AC. I have to ask her though...Still trying to figure out the power issue..

Thanks

SP20's require +/- 15V (NOT Just 15V, +/- 15V)

things said:

SP20's require +/- 15V (NOT Just 15V, +/- 15V)

Click to expand...

Got it. Thanks

They come with their own power supply so you won't have to worry about it. The SP20 PSU also powers the DMX board and accepts 90-240VAC input.

I have one power supply that powers all three of my lasers and it fits in my hand. It only cost around $30.

Where did you get it? That sounds perfect! Modu emailed me back about the case but their response was hard to read...Ill copy and paste it if anyone wants to see it...Im still trying to figure out how to respond.

Thanks

Good 'ol engrish

And yes, the SP20's come with everything needed to throw them together and get them going (Apart from a good DAC).

As for a DAC, I would recommend a FB3 from Pangolin, they are about $500 but well worth it. Sound card DAC's are nice, but have a few various output problems (Analog blanking isn't that great)

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LOL i finally figured it out but c'mon! even jake is better...

If their prices arent too bad (for a custom) then ill probably get one of theirs.

Im torn on what to do. I was planning on having analogue lasers so if i eventually upgraded to a RGB i would have analogue lasers but if the soundcard DAC isnt good with analogue blanking then i dont really know what to do...

I have a spare aluminum flight case lying around. How big would it have to be for a RGY? Ill probably start with just a green and then move up to GY.

Im getting a summer job next summer so i might plan a big RGB with pango. (ill probably have to dip into my savings a tad lol..)

Thanks

Hey man, do still go for analog if you were intending too, the point of having a ILDA port on the back is so you can use various DAC's, and even if you build it in you can customize it later.

With a bit of fine tuning you can probably get the sound card DAC going pretty good, but they are sound cards and not designed for lasershow use, so there will always be problems, but eh, they work fine for starters

Arent there lasers where you can choose analogue or TTL? If i got one of those i could set it to TTL for my first projector and if i choose to upgrade i can turn it back to analogue...right?

still waiting for a reply from my friends at modu LOL

ElektroFreak said:

^Gary's the guy to talk to.. I'd take him up on that Muffin Man. It's a sweet deal!

@Niko: I think these threads are what you are referring to:

http://laserpointerforums.com/f47/new-scanners-32674.html

http://laserpointerforums.com/groups/scanner-group/sound-card-dac-tutorial-41.html

Click to expand...

That's right, thanks!

I agree with Things that an FB3 is the absolute best option in its price range, and definitely outdoes any sound card setup. I haven't had a single issue with analog blanking using a sound card, though, so I'm not sure exactly what's up with that. Once I've got them tuned up and the blanking timed right in Spaghetti they all work fine with analog RGB, anyway.. Probably the ones that Things has used haven't been tuned as well as they could be.. I don't know for sure, though. The main feature that FB3 has over pretty much any cheaper DAC system is that the images are much more fluid. The motion does not have any choppiness or jitter like the soundcard DAC can produce. But hey, for a <$100 solution it's awesome. I've done entire live shows with a soundcard and the audience was thrilled. Getting an FB3 is something for you to look forward to.

You definitely do not want to expect total perfection from a soundcard DAC. The beauty of the soundcard option is both in the price and the fact that aside from the bILDA DAC it is the closest thing to DIY that you'll find. I derive a great deal of pleasure knowing that I built the interface between the laser and my computer. I can't get the same satisfaction from an FB3 since I'd have a real hard time building one. What can i say, I'm a DIY freak.

I think ill have to stick with a sound card dac for now...hopefully i will be able to get pangolin later.

I might just mount everything on a piece of aluminum. Im not going to take it to any shows or anything. Its going to be in my room. I might make a case for it later but for now that should be fine...I just want to see the show!

How big of a piece of aluminum will i need for a RGY? I want to try to mount everything on the one piece of aluminum (scanners, amps, red, green, PSU's ect.)

Do i really need TEC for all of the lasers? I probably wont run it more for an hour MAX. It will probably run for 15 minutes just so it can warm up and then ill do a show for 5-10 minutes.

I guess ill just make a RGY with TTL lasers and if i choose to make a RGB ill fork out the money and get all analogue. That way each time i make a projector it will be added to my collection.

Ill probably order the parts sometime this week...

Thanks

The_Muffin_Man said:

I think ill have to stick with a sound card dac for now...hopefully i will be able to get pangolin later.

I might just mount everything on a piece of aluminum. Im not going to take it to any shows or anything. Its going to be in my room. I might make a case for it later but for now that should be fine...I just want to see the show!

How big of a piece of aluminum will i need for a RGY? I want to try to mount everything on the one piece of aluminum (scanners, amps, red, green, PSU's ect.)

What you need to do is get the dimensions of the lasers you're going to purchase and their power supplies and the galvo set (these can be found in the listed specifications posted by the manufacturer or distributor). Then figure how you want to run the beams and draw everything out. Then just make sure there is enough extra room for anything else you want to throw in there.

Do i really need TEC for all of the lasers? I probably wont run it more for an hour MAX. It will probably run for 15 minutes just so it can warm up and then ill do a show for 5-10 minutes.

The manufacturer of your lasers will determine that before you ever buy them. You should just assume that any lab-style laser can be run indefinitely.

I guess ill just make a RGY with TTL lasers and if i choose to make a RGB ill fork out the money and get all analogue. That way each time i make a projector it will be added to my collection.

Ill probably order the parts sometime this week...

Thanks

Click to expand...

The trick is to draw everything out the way you want it with accurate measurements and then begin building.

Thanks for the quick reply.

Im going to order everything except the aluminum and then lay everything out and see how much room i will need...