Sony 20x burners $24 at Newegg

Just ordered two of the Sony NEC Optiarc 20X burners from Newegg for $23.99 each totaling $64.86 including tax and shipping. I also ordered three AixiZ 12x30mm modules with glass lens and an extra cross lens from the manufacturer in Texas ($28.00 shipped), two MXDL hosts from DealExtreme ($24.01 shipped), and I have a machinist friend of mine working on heatsinks using the dimensions provided by jayrob and materials should be around $10 for both. That, and the required components for Daedel's LM317 circuit are easy to get for under $10 for both. That brings the total, per unit, to just under $70 (including the extra module & extra glass lens, and cross lens). I will post back with results from my two builds in a week or so, or as soon as DealExtreme gets the flashlights to my door, as those are sure to take the longest!

Many thanks to Daedel, jayrob, amkdeath, and everyone else; this is a great community and I've learned so much by reading the well thought out posts all of the members have contributed.

(edit: fixed LM317)

lazd said:

Just ordered two of the Sony NEC Optiarc 20X burners from Newegg for $23.99 each totaling $64.86 including tax and shipping. I also ordered three AixiZ 12x30mm modules with glass lens and an extra cross lens from the manufacturer in Texas ($28.00 shipped), two MXDL hosts from DealExtreme ($24.01 shipped), and I have a machinist friend of mine working on heatsinks using the dimensions provided by jayrob and materials should be around $10 for both. That, and the required components for Daedel's LM315 circuit are easy to get for under $10 for both. That brings the total, per unit, to just under $70 (including the extra module & extra glass lens, and cross lens). I will post back with results from my two builds in a week or so, or as soon as DealExtreme gets the flashlights to my door, as those are sure to take the longest!

Many thanks to Daedel, jayrob, amkdeath, and everyone else; this is a great community and I've learned so much by reading the well thought out posts all of the members have contributed.

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Your welcome

you meant LM317, not 15
regards,

amk

lazd said:

Also, what resistor value should be used to achieve 420ma from the driver? (edit: via amkdeath's post, it seems that a 3 ohm resistor (~0.5 watt) should produce 420ma with this circuit, but does anyone know the formula for determining this?)

Thanks!
-lazd

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Repeat of canned reply:

The LM317 is no mystery and very easy to work with. The following calculations always apply since it uses 1.25 volts for its reference voltage.

To calculate the resistor needed for a given current, take 1.25 and divide it by the current. So say you want to drive a SenKat diode with 250 ma's. 1.25 divided by .250 = a 5 ohm resistor.

Another way you could do this is to take 1.25 and divide it by the resistance. 1.25 divided by 5 = .250.

Next you will want to calculate the wattage of the resister needed. We know 1/2 watt resistors are common for use with the regulator. But to figure it out, simply take the 1.25 and multiply it times the current. 1.25 times .250 =.3125 watts.

The rule of thumb for the voltage going into the regulator is it should be 3 volts more than the voltage going to the diode. A SenKat diode running at 250ma's will have about 3 volts across it. Therefore a minimum if 6 volts is needed.
I recommend 6 nimh batteries or 2 RCR123's for use with Daedal's driver.

aw the price is up to 32 dollars(shipping included in that price)

I was actually going to buy one today too!! just my luck, right when I want to buy one, the price goes way up

hydro said:

Thanks everyone, you guys answer other questions I wanted to ask but I though it was stupid.

Thanks again, this is a great form!

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There are no stupid questions.. Some people know more about one thing, and others know more about another.. And together we can know quite a lot, if we share.

The thing is, when i read your question, i had the feeling i knew what you were confused about, because i had some similiar questions in my mind in the beginning.. And that even tho i work with electronics proffesionally. Well, i just organize everything and design the devices from the outside and the UIs and so on, while my engineers do the hard work - the insides...


But people here helped me clear up my misunderstandings and learn quite a bit more which i am very greatefull for. So yes, this is a great forum. People are always willing to help others, even when the same questions are asked over and over again..

I still didn't get mine, even tho it was supposedly shipped yesturday, which should mean, that it would be here today... I don't get it. Stuff always comes the next day, when it's shipped.

Oh well, more waiting...

Just bought 4 of these. will see how they turn out.

Gah... I hate this.. Mine should have been here on saturday, since it was supposedly sent on friday, but it's still not here.

I don't understand what's going on... I paid for it, they said they sent it, and now they don't reply anymore..

You said they don't reply anymore, were you asking about it?

and I ordered mine 2 days ago I think, so I'll say when and if mine gets here lol

edit: and I have all the parts ordered now! even glasses! so we'll just see when everything gets here! I can't wait, cause this will be my first powerful laser! the only lasers I've owned, in fact, ever SEEN, are a blu-ray and a 5mW green. This one should be fun

Abray said:

You said they don't reply anymore, were you asking about it?
and I ordered mine 2 days ago I think, so I'll say when and if mine gets here lol

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Just to clear things up.. I didn't order from NewEgg.. They don't ship internationally..

I ordered from a Slovenian online shop. They said they shipped it on friday, and here things ALWAYS come in one day with normal post.. So it should have been here on saturday, but it's still not.... And yes, i sent them an e-mail, and before, they always answered immediatelly, but now, nothing...


Anyway, you have nothing to worry about.. My problem is not with NewEgg.

edit: and I have all the parts ordered now! even glasses! so we'll just see when everything gets here! I can't wait, cause this will be my first powerful laser! the only lasers I've owned, in fact, ever SEEN, are a blu-ray and a 5mW green. This one should be fun

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Oh, in that case, you're gonna love it.. Even just the 16x DVD LDs at 200 - 300mA can create a wonderfully visible beam, even in daylight indoors of course...

I just took appart another NEC 16x DVD, and found a flat chip, and a can.. Usually when this happens, the can is the IR, and the flat chip is the red, which means you can't mount it anywhere.. But in this case, i was VERY surprised to find, that the can actually is the red..

Now i have three ~200mW red lasers, but i'm still anxious about the open can.

That is strange,
        :

I ordered a Sony and the Pioneer 115 last Sunday from NewEgg, (I am in the USA) and they showed up on Tuesday!  
And I am 3000 miles away from them!  ;D
Don't know how they do it for free shipping???  [smiley=tongue.gif]
They must have one H#ll of a deal going w/ UPS for 3-day service.  
Sorry to hear about yours disappearing?  :'(
Both are easy removals minus having to push one of the IR's out of its heatsink, which was still fairly easy.  
(don't remember which one that one belonged to-pioneer/sony?)  :-/
Haven't test fired the sony yet, I will try to get to that later today.  [smiley=happy.gif]
The 115 is bright and burns like crazy at 350ma's and seems very stable w/ decent heatsinking.  [smiley=rolleyes.gif]
(running on the DDL driver-awaiting the AMC7135 drivers from DX)  [smiley=thumbsup.gif]
The 7135's output 350ma's out of the box and should be a great match for these open cans!  

Best of Luck!
     
      Joe

     [smiley=2vrolijk_08.gif]

Joenobody said:

(running on the DDL driver-awaiting the AMC7135 drivers from DX)
The 7135's output 350ma's out of the box and should be a great match for these open cans!  

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Don't the open cans develope a higher output power at higher currents than that?


I got very lucky with the 16x LDs i found, they can all do 330mA with no problem, but for the open can, i'm aiming closer to 420mA...

As i said before (or maybe on another thread), i'll use a tiny peltier, to pump the heat away from it to a heatsink, which i will cool with a tiny pager motor, with a tiny helicopter tail propeller attached. This way i can run the cooling from a single AA Ni-Mh cell.. For the LD i intend to use a special buck converter in a sepic configuration, that can regulate the current from only one Li-Po cell, down to 2.7V or even from only two Ni-MHs, with a little modification... I want my lasers small and powerfull... Of course, this will only work, if i manage to get a clean enough output from the converter.. (current ripple problems)


BTW: What kind of a host are you using for your open can? Is it a flashlight? In that case, with the AMC you'll have to insulate the aixiz module from the flashlight body.. But i guess you already know that..

My Sony NEC Optiarc AD-7191A finally arrived..

The shop said they sent it on friday, but they really sent it yesturday.. (maybe after i sent them the angry mail) They also didn't include an invoice on the name of my company, that i requested..

But at least it's here... I'll be dissecting it later today..


How do i tell the difference between the long and short open can?

A long open can has a long chip, it looks like this:



And a short open can has a shorter chip, (obviously) it looks like this diode I got from TheMonk a few days ago:



Please excuse the bad cuality, my camera doesn't have macro mode but you can still tell the difference it chip size.

chido said:

Please excuse the bad cuality, my camera doesn't have macro mode but you can still tell the difference it chip size.

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Thanks! I guess i'll understand, once i have it out completelly..


I found two cans in my NEC 7191A, so i don't have to worry about getting a flat chip red...

But i don't know which is the red yet.. One was in a separate square piece of metal, that has a rounded tube with a lense on top.. Didn't take it out of this chunk yet, but it was easy to pull off the sled it was only held in place by glue...

The other is directly in the main metal piece of the sled, and glued in. I'll solder it's legs together and try to clean away all the glue to get it out.


Wish me luck! It's my first open can...

I got my open can out... It was a pain. It was soldered in place, not just glued..

I was able to cut the solder away, and found two indentations around it, filled with glue, so i dug out the glue and wedged out the LD.

I really hope it made it. It looks like it's in one piece, but i don't know if i touched anything, i shouldn't..

Don't know what type it is yet, i'll try to make a decent photo later..


BTW: Do these connect the same way as 16x LDs?