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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

O-like 200mw module problems

FFnor

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Jul 18, 2010
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Here it goes, i bought it couple of weeks ago and received it yesterday.
First i charged my battery (3.7 Volts 18650) After batteries were fully charged i took module and put it in my solarforce heatsink and inside of host, its great by jayrob.
Runned it like 20seconds very fine but after that beam splits up and dot turned into ''2 dots'' I dont know what causes this but i had dx 200mw and it was fine.
I sended e-mail about this to susie and she wanted some pictures, lets see feedback.
I have also one weird thing :shhh: to think about regarding module, it is 100% identical with DX module from 200mw pointer :confused:

like this->
MGK11.jpg


Also beam pictures from my module
imag0257j.jpg


What do you guys think about these? :banghead:
 
Last edited:





Trevor

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Jul 17, 2009
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It's the crystals that need to be the most stable.

Some modules have more heat tolerance than others, it's really just luck if the draw.

Do you have it mounted in a heatsink?

-Trevor
 

FFnor

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Jul 18, 2010
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Fuck this, it just led'd i was playing with it small duty cycles and now it shows dim red light. iam dissapointed of 119dollars waste :'( cant be normal
 
Joined
Jul 3, 2010
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From my experience with O-like, it uses many of the same manufacturers as cheaper companies like Focalprice or Dealextreme. The key differences are that O-like has far better customer service, and most of the lasers they receive are "binned" to be of high quality. Essentially O-like is getting the better modules of the ones manufactured. It appears a bad module seems to have worked its way through O-like's sorting process.

I wonder If I should still get my 50mw green module (for my RGB with Awlego's driver) from here?

Either way, I wish you the best of luck in resolving this.

AAlasers
 
Joined
Aug 25, 2010
Messages
533
Points
63
Hello!
I have buyed six 200 mW green modules from O-like in the past 6 months, and ALL the modules died!
First, strong linear burning beam and perfect clear dot, and then, after some working hours, weak beam and unfocused ovalized dot with a lot of pattern around, and finally diode death.
I use the good Stainless Steel green kit from Jayrob, and respect always the duty cycle (usually I do better, only 30 sec on and 60 sec off, especially during Summer). I have tried to use CR123a instead RCR123a (about 0,9 less volts, aka less overheating), but the results was the same. I think that this modules are pumped too much over the specs of the diode itself, and the body is too thin to drive and dissipate 200 mW correctly.
The trouble of the double beam occurred me too, but only when I have tried to twist too much one of the three pieces of the laser brass body, probably damaging one of the crystals inside!
On eBay I have found a lot of international resellers that offers those modules, but next time I buy a 100 mW, more than enough for a thin module like this ...
 

benmwv

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Sep 10, 2010
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Yeah, o-like has recently changed to these green modules with threads on the end... To be honest I think these modules are pieces of sh*t.

The old ones that didn't have threads on them were much better. Looking at the driver boards the old style ones seem to have much more quality, the new ones just look cheap.
 
Joined
Aug 25, 2010
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I have the old-style modules with spring but the result is the same.
One module can fail, bu not all six !! The Jayrob kit is ok, so the problem is the module. Hope to have more fun with the 100 mW one ...
 

Helios

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Jan 7, 2011
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I have the old-style modules with spring but the result is the same.
One module can fail, bu not all six !! The Jayrob kit is ok, so the problem is the module. Hope to have more fun with the 100 mW one ...

Have you contacted O-like? We cant really do anything for you.
 
Joined
Aug 25, 2010
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Thanks for the help, but I already know the response: this module is delicate, and it's too small to be pumped to 200 mW, so it can't be used into a normal laser pointer body. It need an external big heatsink and a decent power supply. I try first a 100 mW module as suggested by Jayrob.
 

Helios

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Thanks for the help, but I already know the response: this module is delicate, and it's too small to be pumped to 200 mW, so it can't be used into a normal laser pointer body. It need an external big heatsink and a decent power supply. I try first a 100 mW module as suggested by Jayrob.

How do you know that? O-like has a decent reputation for customer service.
 

honeyx

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Joined
Jun 12, 2011
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Like I already posted it in an other threat. My 200mW module from O-Like also died. Its the diode that LEDed. Also used a big heatsink and even added thermalpaste all around the module for better heat transfer. At the beginning it peaked at 209mW and kept the amount of power, but after a while it started to behave strange. When the host was cold to roomtemp, it just gave about 50mW of power. After warming it up a bit and turning several times on an off, it obviously got back to its full power. Was really annoing as usually a DPSS doesn´t have to be turned off and on again when it´s warmed up to its most efficient temperature. The power degraded day by day till the IR laserdiode finally LEDed. Also, both lenses were totally disaligned and loose. The expanding lens was clicking insight its brass housing and the collimating lens was simply defocusing by just moving the module. Had to fix this first, but the quality of the brass housing plus the loose lenses was actually worse than with a cheap DX module.

BTw. The KTP has exactly the same size like the KTP inside a 200mW DX module. They are not bigger in the O-Like modules like some people said. The only difference is the DX uses a 500mW laserdiode whereas the o-like module uses a 1W laserdiode and obviously a better alligned KTP cristal.
 





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