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FrozenGate by Avery

NUGM01T Build

Joined
May 16, 2015
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350
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Well friends, this is, I believe, the first handheld NUGM01T build on LPF. I know a lot of people were curious about this diode because it came out at $95 less than the NDG7475, yet appeared likely to have similar power capabilities. I actually bought this diode for myself, but a friend ended up wanting it, so he purchased it from me and had me build it into an MX900 with one of Rick's aluminum heatsinks.

I won't go through every little detail on this thread, so if you have questions, feel free to ask in the thread or message me.

First things first, gotta pop the can off to use standard G2/3-element lenses with it. Got a cool little macro shot with the lens still in place. From this view, it appears as if there's actually both a red and a blue die. This would make sense for producing green light, but I have no clue if that's actually what's going on here. Can anyone comment on this?

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-10-08-15-24_zpsbqti7ptw.png.html][/URL]

Here's another macro shot of it with the can removed.

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-10-08-19-43_zpszpvt38nd.png.html][/URL]

I used a 2.4A round 20mm X-Drive for this build. I added a copper heatsink, which I had to trim for height. The thermal adhesive was placed on the outer components to ensure none of them shorted on the heatsink.

I love the look and lightness of the aluminum heatsink, but man, it gets saturated so much more quickly than copper. However, there is over 10 watts going to the diode, so I suppose that is to be expected.

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-21-22-58-25_zpsqo6fh3cf.png.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-21-22-58-35_zpsqhgwpozl.png.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-21-22-58-58_zpsyczt0fmu.png.html][/URL]

Now for some completed pics.

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150921_223036_zpszwzwmoxv.jpg.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150921_223056_zpsattpqo4m.jpg.html][/URL]

Und zie beam shots! :D

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-21-22-56-24_zpsqrumjwjm.png.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-21-22-56-02_zps2frijf9p.png.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-21-22-55-37_zpstuxz6le7.png.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-21-22-54-35_zpsd8yh5qxp.png.html][/URL]

Beam shots compared to my 5+ watt NUBM07E.

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-21-22-53-50_zpsibj6asc7.png.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-21-22-53-43_zpsjlytgter.png.html][/URL]

And now for the power tests. Power output for the listed max current(2A) from the datasheet and also 2.4A, which should probably be the max this diode should see:

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-24-12-57-11_zpswiuzfhee.png.html][/URL]

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-24-12-54-40_zpssgbgfliq.png.html][/URL]

I graphed my measured output from my Ophir LPM along with DTR's numbers from his site, as many people wanted a comparison of the two.

[URL=http://s356.photobucket.com/user/TaterMay22/media/Mobile%20Uploads/NUGM01T%20Graph-1_zpswpmg3npq.jpg.html][/URL]

I just received another NUGM01T and an NDG7475, so I will be able to do a direct comparison and also increase the sample size for the NUGM01T data.
 
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how easy is it to pop the lens off the can?
I was looking around, yet never saw anything. But I always get distracted when I search for things
 
I've done about 5 or 6 now, and none have been as easy as this video shows. However, none have been damaged, and I feel pretty confident removing them now. As long as you make sure you pull it to where the solid copper part is the only thing that makes contact on the way out, you'll be just fine.


 
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Got a cool little macro shot with the lens still in place. From this view, it appears as if there's actually both a red and a blue die. This would make sense for producing green light, but I have no clue if that's actually what's going on here. Can anyone comment on this?

It's not red and blue, the tiny square thing with one wire connected to it is an electrostatic discharge (ESD) protection device.

Alan
 
Wow that looks super easy. I wasnt sure if you needed a decanning tool or not. Tha ks for the vid
 
It's not red and blue, the tiny square thing with one wire connected to it is an electrostatic discharge (ESD) protection device.

Alan

I had a feeling this was the case. Probably the AR coating making it appear red while the lens is still on?

Great build! Do you think it's brighter than the NUBM07E?

Yes. I'll compare them side by side again tonight and give an estimate on how much brighter I think it is. I know that I had it on my white wall 10 meters away last night, pulled my glasses off for a second, and I definitely saw a spot for a good 3 or 4 minutes afterwards. It is crazy bright.
 
Great build! Do you think it's brighter than the NUBM07E?

I compared again last night, and it's much closer than I thought. They are both extremely bright. My wife said she thought the NUBM07E was brighter, while I was struggling to make a decision one way or the other. My NUBM07E is over 5 watts.
 
Cool!
A good way to compare beam brightness is by looking at the beam sideways from a few meters. This really brings out the difference :)
 
It looks nice and bright, I bet a 3 diode unit would really shine.
 
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