my first cheap laser repair... lots of pictures. 56k non-friendly

my attempt to fix my 300mw green laser. the previous diode died so i picked up a new one from ray foss for almost nothing. ( took 4 weeks to arrive ). excuse my noob soldering job - this is my very first time ever to solder/desolder anything. just used a el cheapo radio shack iron.



package arrived with rayfoss signiture


shows the module after unpacked. i t came with a non anti-static bag and then wrapped with bubblewrap.


negative terminals.


pos terminals


close up of the driver ill be removing


o-like driver that im installing - Driver Size :10*20mm

Input voltage is 4.0-5.0V

TTL modulation 0-5VDC <5kHz

0V off @ >2.5V laser on

Current :80-500mA


backside shot - to be installed to diode



lens





lenses cap and battery.


diode terminals exposed



new driver installed.





SUCCESS!!


finished product.




beamshot.

thankx for looking. this just shows how anyone who has no prior experience can install a replacement diode in a existing host. the hardest part of all this was waiting fro the parts. Took about 10 mins to put together.

ived been in and out of the forums always reading and admiring laser builds. it is because of LPF's that i have educated myself and created motivation to proceed on such projects. i finally made a username and let it be official. THE LASER ADDICTION BEGINS!.

THANK YOU LPF.

Hi stinkbug and welcome,

Just for clarity, it looks like you just replaced the whole module and not the diode. Is this the case?

It takes more than a little experience to replace the diode, align the crystal set, and optics, to get a DPSS working so well. Unless you were remarkably lucky on this occasion.

Please confirm...

M

Just for clarity, it looks like you just replaced the whole module and not the diode. Is this the case?

It takes more than a little experience to replace the diode, align the crystal set, and optics, to get a DPSS working so well. Unless you were remarkably lucky on this occasion.

Click to expand...

Yea, he just replaced the module but substituted an O-like driver for a Rayfoss one. If I read it right. Sounds like step backwards if you ask me.
I don't care for that driver.
How many mA are you getting out of that driver? I've never been able to get more then 170'ish out of one unmodified.
I don't know where O-like comes up with 500mA max. At 12V maybe:crackup:
Replacing a module is a good way to start practicing. If your soldering skills are lacking, find an old TV PCB and practice removing and reinstalling components untill you can do it quickly and neatly. IE: shiny, smooth solder joints.
LD's (laser diodes) depend on strong solder joints. A weak one will kill a LD in a microsecond.
Good luck and congratulations on your first project's success.

Morgan said:

Hi stinkbug and welcome,

Just for clarity, it looks like you just replaced the whole module and not the diode. Is this the case?

It takes more than a little experience to replace the diode, align the crystal set, and optics, to get a DPSS working so well. Unless you were remarkably lucky on this occasion.

Please confirm...

M

Click to expand...

^
this is true!
the diode was already installed into the heat sink.. yes your are right. thankx for the clarification

How many mA are you getting out of that driver?

Click to expand...

im still a nub and learning as i go. i just ran a search on how to do that. ill post it as soon as i get the numbers.

I thought it was the whole module. Just thought I'd nudge you on nomenclature...

I think also that you replaced the RAYFOSS driver that came attached to the module with the O-LIKE driver? If I re-read it right?

The drivers on O-like modules can easily draw 500mA. Mine draws 600mA at little over 3V but this model may well be different. Still, we will see when you post some more info.

Good luck and nice job replacing your module and driver!

M

stinkbug said:

my attempt to fix my 300mw green laser. the previous diode died so i picked up a new one from ray foss for almost nothing.

Click to expand...

Nice "pictorial" writeup of your work, +1 :beer:

Missing however are which module did you buy from Rayfoss (please provide a link to the module if possible, thx*) and why you decided to swap out the driver?

Personally, my experience with O-Like drivers has been much better than with the Rayfoss drivers (noting that neither O-Like nor Rayfoss actually select the drivers, much less manufacture them...). So I am curious to know why you decided to swap them out...

*Looks like you'll have to get to me on that link; I just checked and their website is er, "broken"... :-/
http://rayfoss.com/product.asp?bigc...aser Module&smallclassname=532nm Laser Module

I swapped drivers because i was too lazy to solder all the other crap into the other board. i felt that i didint trust my solder points fully. the ray foss one didnt have a button and a spring