Greens Can Indeed Burn

LarryDFW said:

metaman said:

Here is a pic of the end of a 0-like module. Would your lens fit this?

Click to expand...

Yes, If those threads are 9mm x 0.5mm.

Thanks for the photo of the lens.

LarryDFW

Click to expand...

[Cool, nested linked quotes!]

I happen to have both an O-Like module, as well as a glass Axiz lens & LPC I got from Drew that I haven't had a chance put to use yet, so I can probably answer that question.

LarryDFW's lens is designed to fit into an Aixiz module, right?

Then the answer is No.

I checked, and even still wrapped-up, the glass lens is WAY too small for the O-Like!

I'd estimate the threads on the O-Like to be at least 11mm.

If it is 11mm, then it could be drilled and tapped with a 9mm x 0.5mm tap.

They are available from:

Metric Taps

$25 minimum order

Thanks;

LarryDFW

If it is 11mm, then it could be drilled and tapped with a 9mm x 0.5mm tap.

They are available from:...

Click to expand...

Huh? :thinking:

Not unless that tap can magically ADD metal to the O-Like?

The HOLE is 11mm+ across!

I've got some ideas using a non-O-Like approach, though! :yh:

LarryDFW said:

themandalorian;

Finally disassembled the 50mw laser for some power and lens testing.
What do you think of my module puller ?

Click to expand...

I couldn't help but notice that that driver (and base of module) looks a LOT like the new DX modules we have been working with, just with some lower quality components!

Not sure if same manufacturer for low-end version of driver??? Or perhaps a cheaper "clone" of driver by a competitor? This is China after all - you know how much they are concerned about copyrights and such!

Do you have any pics of that module without your custom "puller" attached?

Reset the driver @ 400ma. Voltage was 1.985 VDC at the diode.
Power Input = 794mw for the 808nm diode.
(From a data sheet for Sanyo 200mw 808nm diode - efficiency of 200/460 or 43.5% )
IR Power Output = 794 x 43.5% = 345mw @ 808nm
Power Output = 47mw @ 532nm
Efficiency = 13.6% of IR Power In

Click to expand...

If those #'s are all correct, then the efficiency of that unit is a lot worse than the modules I am currently working with (older technology, perhaps?)

For comparison, efficiency of the LD on the lower-power modules I have been testing (similar power range as yours) - slightly better, ~47.4% efficient. But crystal efficiency, over double - up to 30%+, compared to your 13.6%!

But if that module can hold your lens, I wonder if it could be possible to transplant part of that module onto the more powerful modules I am working on, in order to get the best of both worlds?

BTW, PM sent!

LarryDFW said:

A #317 cicuit will drive 1 amp (about 150mw Green) with adequate heat sinking.

Click to expand...

A typical TO-220 LM317 can actually handle up to 1.5A with heatsinking, though they can be put in parallel for more current handling. Although they were not designed to be used in parallel, numerous people have been doing it and they don't seem to mind.

As long as you configure them as current sources, you can put them in paralel all you want - its a basic electronics principle. They do not even have to supply the same current: if you'd feed a diode from one 100 mA source and another 200 mA source, it would run at 300 mA without any problem.

The problem arises when you want to put -voltage- regulators in paralel, where the load gets divided unevenly unless they are exactly at the same voltage (which in practice never really happens).

About o-like modules, if you still need the measures (just cause i dismantled a pair of them, too ) .....

The lens in the holder is a plano-convex with the flat side toward the expander(inside), and is exactly 5,0 mm diameter, and have a FL of 13mm (green lasers don't need short FL lenses like diodes)

External thread diameter of the holder is 11mm, the threads step is 0,5mm spaced.

So, probably none of the lenses that we use for diodes can be used there, for the FL difference.

In the o-like module that i turned in focusable, i tried two different lenses, the original one, and another that i had in my lenses box with the same diameter but 9mm FL ..... with the 9mm FL one, the beam is a bit more thin, also focused in distance, and i can screw the holder more inside the tube (the idea was to shorten it, for a matched set that i have in mind ), but the focusing become a bit more difficult to acquire, i mean, is more sensitive to very small movements.

Just for the curiosity, i tried also with a 3 mm FL lens that i had around, just glueing it provvisorily on the holder, but focusing the module with that lens was a nightmare ..... for turn it from a point to a 10mm blob, was almost enough looking it bad ..... and also, it was almost touching the expander, and is too easy to damage the crystal/expander assembly, turning it too much for an error.

May be interesting to try with a 5 or 6 mm FL one, when i get one somewhere, but actually don't have one for try, sorry

seoguy said:

Huh? :thinking:

Not unless that tap can magically ADD metal to the O-Like?

The HOLE is 11mm+ across!

I've got some ideas using a non-O-Like approach, though! :yh:

Click to expand...

Using the original lens holder,

I would just take out the original lens,

drill the 11mm holder out,

and tap it for a 9mm assembly with a long F.L. lens.

LarryDFW

^ careful with the operations, in removing it for the first time !

All the elements in the o-like modules are glued with loctite-like threads glue ..... and also the crystal and the expander are glued in place, and these glues are more sensitive to heat than the loctite one.

You need first to take away the tube, then remove the lens from the holder, and at this point you can heat it enough for unscrew the holder from inside the tube ..... trying to do this with the rest of the module still connected to the tube, you risk to ruin it.

I ruined the first 5mW one when i tried ..... it was already defective, so i used it for "experience" ..... the heat ruined both the glue that keep he expander in front of the crystal, AND the expander itself, that is in plastic, and not in glass like the front lens

I saw in earlier posts that Larry was going to try focusing his 50mW Led Shoppe and I got one on the way. But this is my 1st 50mW pointer so I'm the noob of all noobs. I bought it for the "beam' but now I wouldn't mind having another one with some burning power.

Should I futz with the 50mW coming and buy a lens from Larry or get another one that comes burning out of the box? Larry, did you ever mess with your Led Shoppe 50?

My 50mW can light matches. Although you have to be no farther then 6". And the matches have to be Sharpied(black)
I really wasn't expecting this when I ordered it.
Nice surprise