DIY Green Laser Sight (for Handguns)?

Hi - first time posting.

I have an XD-9 and I'd like a green laser sight for it as well. I found a compact red laser for it and I'm trying to find a green module that I can fit into the housing. I think my red laser my be too compact though.

Anyway, to comment on some of the stuff about durability... I don't think it will be that big a deal really. While it's true there is some shock from the recoil, the laser mounts to the rail system on the receiver, not the slide. The slide is the part that moves during the recoil. The receiver should remain relatively still in the shooter's hand.

joncylee said:

Hi ZRTMWA, the exact ranges are 59F (15C) to 95F (35C), but why go for green lasers when you can't use them under extreme weather condition territories?

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Actually it depends on the brand. A lasermax green sight is good for 40F to 100F.

Hi guys, I'm looking to build something similar. I think a 5mw green laser would be awesome to use, both in night and day. I bought one from frys electronics for $25 on sale and the thing is like a lightsaber in the night, giving a clear line of laser light as far as the eye can see, as in, you can go outside and point to stars and clearly see the light all the way, so on a gun it would provide an intimidating and illuminating (I can shine it in a dark room and see the entire room clearly) method to use as a sight. I'm not worried about calibrating I perfectly, or repeated shot usage, I jus dint want to drop over $100 for one, and if they could be mounted cheaply could be replaced for $25, want to see if anyone has devised a way to use the tac mount or even some kind of attachment to be placed around the grip, which would reduce damage from recoil energy, if it were running parrallel to the barrel without actually touching it. I kno it can be done, I'd run a rubber strap/clamp around the grip, with a bracket to slide the laser into it pointing forward, that's about all I need, as the gun wouldn't be holstered ever for this type of bedroom home defense.

Hoping someone with some tech know how can rig this setup to be fairly reliable... Or else I'll have to duct tape it to the non-moving part of my xd, which will get it all sticky and no one wants to see that. :thanks:

Jgochoco said:

Hi guys, I'm looking to build something similar. I think a 5mw green laser would be awesome to use, both in night and day. I bought one from frys electronics for $25 on sale and the thing is like a lightsaber in the night, giving a clear line of laser light as far as the eye can see, as in, you can go outside and point to stars and clearly see the light all the way, so on a gun it would provide an intimidating and illuminating (I can shine it in a dark room and see the entire room clearly) method to use as a sight. I'm not worried about calibrating I perfectly, or repeated shot usage, I jus dint want to drop over $100 for one, and if they could be mounted cheaply could be replaced for $25, want to see if anyone has devised a way to use the tac mount or even some kind of attachment to be placed around the grip, which would reduce damage from recoil energy, if it were running parrallel to the barrel without actually touching it. I kno it can be done, I'd run a rubber strap/clamp around the grip, with a bracket to slide the laser into it pointing forward, that's about all I need, as the gun wouldn't be holstered ever for this type of bedroom home defense.

Hoping someone with some tech know how can rig this setup to be fairly reliable... Or else I'll have to duct tape it to the non-moving part of my xd, which will get it all sticky and no one wants to see that. :thanks:

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What exactly are you talking about? You seem to be coming across as believing that a laser can merely be mounted to a firearm so long as it is shock isolated. Sorry, that won't be close to working.

A laser needs precise adjustability as well as strong mounting, so that point of aim is retained.

Why does everyone think that a laser will help them hit a man-sized target 10 feet away standing in a bedroom? You can use a tactical light to fully illuminate the target while using the sights to shoot in this situation. I can assure you that 250 lumens hitting them in the eyes will begin to help you more than a laser will.

It seems we have too many laser ninjas around here.

Lasers have not been determined to be practical for defense. They are more of a novelty for shooting fun, and as an alternative sighting system for use with night vision.

if any one is still watching this board I am currently working on a green/IR laser sight. I'm using solidworks to the case design.

sstainba said:

Hi - first time posting.

Anyway, to comment on some of the stuff about durability... I don't think it will be that big a deal really. While it's true there is some shock from the recoil, the laser mounts to the rail system on the receiver, not the slide. The slide is the part that moves during the recoil. The receiver should remain relatively still in the shooter's hand.

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The receiver does remain mostly still, but that doesn't have much effect on the recoil forced. Some are absorbed by the movement of the slide but a large amount of force is still applied to the receiver, whatever is mounted to the gun and the users hand. There is a reason surefires weapon lights (the ones designed for weapon mounting) had shock housings for the bulbs (before the LEDs took over).

bp

Hi, I am not a very big fan from BOBLASERS but they have Gun-Lasers red or green for low prices.

Reaper1 said:

if any one is still watching this board I am currently working on a green/IR laser sight. I'm using solidworks to the case design.

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Yes, I am currently working on building a green laser sight. I came here to see if I could get some ideas on shock mounts. My current design has the front of the module with a centering cone lip in a cone receiver, pushed back by a spring. The rear of the module is held by a o-ring and the case has three screws for wind age and elevation adjustment.

Any ideas how to stabilize / fix the laser crystals in place inside the module so they don't shift and fail?

This is the 30mw green laser I made for my gun. This is version 1... I'm working on version 2 which will be much more refined. As you can see this one is very large... but it's mostly battery. AAA batteries were the smallest thing I could find to drive the laser. The next version is going to be all one piece and be much smaller. Instead of having to bolt together 3 pieces, rail, module housing, battery pack, it will have a one piece housing with one large bore through it for the laser module, and 2 smaller bores below and on either side of the laser chamber, and the whole thing will have the rail milled into the top. Should make the laser much smaller. The way this laser works is very simple. The chamber the module is in is slightly bigger diameter than the module. So there's an oring on the very back of the module so it's tight there but the whole module can pivot. There are 3 set screws around the front of the housing that are used to adjust the pivot of laser to sight it in. In an effort to make the whole laser more durable, I took apart every threaded piece of the laser and jb welded them together. I have put about 1000 rounds through the gun and have not had an issue yet. Don't be fooled by the 1911 style though, this is only a 22.

I am attempting to make a laser sight for a rifle. I have a green laser module and a machine shop to make a case in any form of plastic or aluminum. I plan to use two AA batteries, a bit large but I have the space and wanted the power longevity.

Deathofallthings - you are not having to worry too much about recoil with a .22, mine will be somewhat higher. I know that it has been mentioned that the crystal inside the module can be / or has been 'stabilized' or potted in the past to do this and I was wondering the details and success of that technique. As an alternative, I am going to 'shock mount' the module in a 'Zero focus' returnable design so once sighted in, the module might move on firing but return accurately to the same point by springs and plastic guides. Thus damping the shock impulse from fast/hard to long/soft gravities. Complex and prone to error and so a much less desired method then being able to 'toughen' the module. Surely SOMEONE here at this site full of experts has the knowledge although it might have been used for a different type project. Referrals would be appreciated.

From some of the comments in the old thread that obviously were from people who do not shoot, I have a budget and DO NOT WANT TO SPEND $900.00 when it should be possible for under $100.00. The military grade are tough enough for combat, the cheaper ones ($50 to $300) fail too frequently. And its not just the money, I want the pleasure of DIY.