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How do you do it?
(without destroying the diode?)
(without destroying the diode?)
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
Disassembling DX 30
- Thread starter potatorage
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SMIDSY
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I second this question, how do you get the module out of the pen style casing without breaking the module?
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a vise patience and a couple blocks of wood.
SMIDSY
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thejunkmonger said:
I know how to take off the end, but is there a complete guide somewhere?
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the DX true lasers are just an incredible pain in the ass to open, the last one i tried to open - i had to put so much force on the cap i squashed it, then finally i was able to get the cap off.
once the cap is off the entire module simply pulls out of the laser
once the cap is off the entire module simply pulls out of the laser
Benm
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It'll come out quite easily once you have removed the cap indeed. Depending on the exact model there may be a spring from the circuit board to the case, but then you can push it out with minimal force... and be sure not to loose the little on-button knob at that point 
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One more time -----
The head usually measures ~0.530" in diameter. I drill a 1/2 " hole through a 1" block of HARD wood. Then cut it in half to make a clamp.
Clamp the laser head in the wood block using a good vice and wiggle it in all directions while pulling. Take your time and go slowly at first.
This method has never failed me.
Mike
The head usually measures ~0.530" in diameter. I drill a 1/2 " hole through a 1" block of HARD wood. Then cut it in half to make a clamp.
Clamp the laser head in the wood block using a good vice and wiggle it in all directions while pulling. Take your time and go slowly at first.
This method has never failed me.
Mike
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wrap in in a piece of leather like a glove then grab with pliers wiggle wiggle wiggle it takes a little time but comes off I've done it three times so far hope this helps
EDIT 4-11-09 have opened up about 25 of these this way now
EDIT 4-11-09 have opened up about 25 of these this way now
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John is right -- I use pieces of an old belt for larger housings. Leather is great if you have that. I use wood on smaller housings to better distribute the force.
Mike
Mike
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I will be trying out the wood block trick mike does it prevent the dreaded scratching
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i tried that and i tightened the visegrips so hard it bit through the leather, still wouldn't come off
V
V1.15
Guest
I found those silly rubber "jar openers" you can get at home store for about a dollar worked wonders. (they are about 6" in diameter and are made for old people and women so they can get a better grip on jars to open them)
They provide sufficient traction on the module that you can put vice grips on, or clamp into a vice w/o marring the finish. So far, I have taken 3 apart like that and had only one mishap when I tried to go too fast and take sa shortcut.
They provide sufficient traction on the module that you can put vice grips on, or clamp into a vice w/o marring the finish. So far, I have taken 3 apart like that and had only one mishap when I tried to go too fast and take sa shortcut.
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Hey man, don't diss on those jar openers. They've saved my hands extra wear and tear with some of those nasty jar tops.
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i have a true dx50mw green pen thats dead all it has is a faint red which is the pump diode. and i only looked once so im safe. idk its werid when dx sent it, i got it, and the modual just slides right out of the laser with the cap attached. ill make a video if any one wants to learn how.
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Maybe the secret to opening it up easily is to burn out the green laser.
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I'm taking mine apart now and have had little luck.
I easily took of the cap with my pliers and cut through 1/4" casing with my pocket knife but once I cut the casing down about halfway it became very hard to wedge my knife between the casing and the modual, clamping it down seems like a very good idea
I easily took of the cap with my pliers and cut through 1/4" casing with my pocket knife but once I cut the casing down about halfway it became very hard to wedge my knife between the casing and the modual, clamping it down seems like a very good idea
