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Which batterie to use for best laser output

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Oct 3, 2013
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For those who still use standard AA or AAAs. What kind of batteries do you use?

Anyone for Energizer's Lithium Ultimate? Any problems with the higher voltage?

Or would lets say the Energizer Ultra+ Alkaline do the same job?

Any experience, concerning the max. output without harming the diode?
 





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I would recommend sticking with Alkaline or Nickel Metal Hydride batteries if you don't have multimeters or battery tester, for safety reason. The Lithium batteries have to be balanced as far as high-drain application is concerned.

If one of them goes out of balance and gets overcharged, it will get mighty unhappy, as in venting with flame. There are plentiful of such incidents as reported in Candlepower Forums - an example: Safety of Lithium Primary AA's?

And, the laser pointer will happily accept the Lithium AA batteries (as long as they are balanced).

EDIT: They would be okay in standard 5mW setup as the current would be 100 - 200mA, but pot mod or infrared laser diode upgrade is pushing things.
 
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Energizer or lithium ultimate are fine in pen style laser .But a better option is using a 10440 lithium ion and a dummy cell so you only need one real battery .You get to be able to recharge the 10440 which is same size as AAA but rechargeable and you get a higher output volts up to 4.2 which hasn't caused any problems on my eBay pens. You also get an increase in output of around 15% more power depends the individual laser pen ..You can do the same with AA batteries as well us a 14500 lithium ion and a dummy battery both are available on fleabay.
 
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I don't recommend 15400 Li-ion battery unless you can be 100% sure the driver can take 4.2 Volts without frying the diode. (I know few members here have accidentally allowed their IR pump diodes let their magic smokes out on Li-ion battery.)

And protected Li-ion batteries are a must, no exception - you should not allow the Li-ion battery go to 2.7 Volts or below, it essentially ruins them.
 
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SKeeZ

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Energizer or lithium ultimate are fine in pen style laser .But a better option is using a 10440 lithium ion and a dummy cell so you only need one real battery .You get to be able to recharge the 10440 which is same size as AAA but rechargeable and you get a higher output volts up to 4.2 which hasn't caused any problems on my eBay pens. You also get an increase in output of around 15% more power depends the individual laser pen ..You can do the same with AA batteries as well us a 14500 lithium ion and a dummy battery both are available on fleabay.

what blaster said^. a lithium ion is always the better choice in my book but, some lasers can't handle the extra 1.2V
 
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If you are completely comfortable with doing the laser from scratch, you would be able to get away with using Li-ion batteries as most driver board sold by members here are Li-ion battery friendly.

I also use A123 18650 Lithium Iron Phosphate battery in my laser, and I can tell ya, going with Li-ion battery is the best choice for power-hungry lasers, no more Alka-leakers to deal with. For low power lasers, Li-ion battery do actually last surprisingly long on single charge in it.
 
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I have been givin' it a good thought. I think probably a protected AA sized Li : FePO4 (Lithium : Iron Phosphate) battery (with built-in circuit breaker board located at Cathode [ - ] end of battery) with dumny battery in, as long as the driver is known to be able to accept 3.4 Volts, shall do. I think sometimes you can find one for LED garden lamp, but I would recommend genuine article, such as those from AW (AW batteries are actually the most respected as far as safety's concerned).

After completely charging the battery, leave it for 15 minutes, it should settle down to about 3.3 - 3.2 Volts, instead of 3.6 Volts (due to electrokinetic movements of Iron oxide = Lithium, hence some Li : FePO4 batteries can be charged instantly, as such is the case with A123 batteries).
 
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i tried the energizer lithiums in comparison to some standard alkalines on my 75mw and visually i really couldnt see a difference.
 
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That's because there are no difference between the AA Alkaline batteries and Energizer Lithium batteries - same voltage. The only difference would be the short term and long term ampere capability, meaning Energizer Lithium will last longer than Alkaline batteries.
 
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That's because there are no difference between the AA Alkaline batteries and Energizer Lithium batteries - same voltage. The only difference would be the short term and long term ampere capability, meaning Energizer Lithium will last longer than Alkaline batteries.

1,5v, i know but sb measured the off-load voltage with about 1,6v or no,i think it was even 1,8v. so whats the point of that? i assumed that when on use it will begin still with ca. 1,6v. so when using 2xAAA it would be still a plus of 0,2v and should make the diode brighter and maybe shortened the lifetime.

so i was completely wrong, just doing some bull**** assumption :whistle::thinking:
 
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That depends but 1.8 Volts per cells are nothing to write home about since FDA already have forced most legal laser pointer makers to use APC driver so 1.4 Volts is essentially removed from the photo feedback before being fed to the diode. Not always the case, in fact sometimes the diodes have their lucky day when the diode driver chip commits suicide trying to remove couple watts from the equations.
 
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lasermanXYZ;

Green pen-style lasers need 3 VDC @ up to 1/2 amp.

My advice is to buy a larger pen that takes a single #18650 cell.

They cost slightly more, but you will save far more than the difference in price,
by using a quality rechargeable cell.

With larger and longer lasting 18650 cells . . .

you can also get major name-brand manufacturers . . .

who have tested their cells for safety (UL#1642).

Even safer, are the lithium nickel manganese cobalt oxide (NMC) style 18650 cells,
that have just arrived.

I have several of both green laser types currently.

LarryDFW
 
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LarryDFW, I agree that 18650 will last a good bit of time, my A123 18650 Li : FePO4 battery lasts 2 - 3 hours before Microboost cuts out.

However, I may suggest ditching the original driver, and switch in with a switchmode buck driver as it's already Li-ion battery friendly, that is if you wanna go the route of building a Li-ion powered handheld DPSS laser. Some members sell buck drivers for red laser diodes, use that (nearly the same Vf).
 

Tmack

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Ordered one of those five minutes ago for a pen e2 build. What could be more perfect.
 




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