532nm 200mw doesn't burn stuff... ?

It's because they're in 'quantity over quality' mode and trying to keep their laborers pumping out as many units per day as they can. I think generally the only real QC is 'does it make green light when you push the button'

The parts they use are capable of more generally, but taking more time and care to assemble and test means more cost and less lasers produced... And they're not competing with the 'good' laser manufacturers, they're competing with the people down the street also making $20 200mW lasers.

It's why you see a fairly wide price gap between 'cheap' dpss and 'good' dpss.

You can probably rebuild and realign most cheap modules to be near or at spec.. but even if your good at it, expect it to take a few hours of your time to do properly and get the maximum possible output.

Well, thanks for the break-in. At least I know a lot more about lasers than before this post.

If you want to burn stuff, grab a 445nm laser. If you know how to build a driver/heatsink/host/etc., it'll only cost you 50 bucks. Of course, you'll probably drop another 50 on goggles to protect your eyes.

If you just want to burn things buy an IR or red laser

You need goggles regardless of what wavelength you use.

Oh hi, I'm still new-ish to lasers - and recently I went on a spending / learning spree - and what I can tell you is that a powerful blue laser is easily constructed.

It cost me about $80 to build. But I added a bunch of switches to control the different power levels & voltage sources...

BUT, before I came across this place and started tinkering with heat sinks and building power "driver" circuits I found a 250mw red laser module from Dino Direct that was $31 shipped. All you have to do is supply the voltage from 3 - 5 volts and mine hits 220mW @4.5 volts... I liked it so much that I ordered another - and it was identical to the first one - I was a little suprised that there was any quality control.. of course it did take about three weeks for each one to arrive and there's no tracking information to speak of...but they've come through for me each time I've prdered from them. The Link
Oh yeah, that 200mW from Olike is a good choice but if you're on a budget then go for the red or buld a blue

Well, good luck. And listen to these guys, even the grumpy ones

cad602

Those red modules have their own drivers built in, which is why you can give them 5V and them live. 5V to a raw red diode would mean at best, instant LED, and at worst, you burn the bonding wires off and if your driver doesn't happen to like running without a load, you could have a fried driver as well.

yep, I should have mentioned that! (it's in the description)...I wonder what OP's gonna do!

cad602