We need some steampunk hosts...

No bubbles burst Jerry.

I did read the manual, admittedly a while ago so thanks for drawing my attention but do you mean the bit saying, "DO NOT mount the Thermopile Sensor into an enclosure..." ? !!!

I understand there needs to be proper air flow and my, 'get out', is that the enclosure is not sealed. It can be used open but for storage it is much safer. You can see the clasp on the left hand side so the whole lid, (to which the radiator and board are mounted), opens right up.

I have been extremely careful not to touch the sensor itself. EVER. Eliminating this risk was one of the drives to protect it in an enclosure.

The caveat should therefore be in the finished post something along the lines that:

"In the instruction manual, it is strongly recommended by the manufacturer NOT to place the Thermopile Sensor in an enclosure as the Thermopile radiator will not be able to dissipate the laser beam's heat properly." - Whilst explaining my one will be used open.

How could I make it compatible to be used in a fully closed enclosure?

Yes, the bezel is a touch too reflective! Goggles on before reading with this one, even with low power!

M

The GoW paintball gun, while cool as hell, to me is more 'post apocalyptic' than 'steampunk'

Steampunk to me is usually sort of victorianesque, and usually implies having lots of copper/brass and being of an extremely mechanical (though still ornate) 'function decides the form' nature.

You are correct about the resin casting being durable though. However, i'll still go for actual metal constructs any day over epoxy. For one. You don't have to make it look like metal if it already is. And another, i'm better with a lathe and other metal working tools than I am at freeform mold making anyway.

qumefox said:

The GoW paintball gun, while cool as hell, to me is more 'post apocalyptic' than 'steampunk'

Steampunk to me is usually sort of victorianesque, and usually implies having lots of copper/brass and being of an extremely mechanical (though still ornate) 'function decides the form' nature.

You are correct about the resin casting being durable though. However, i'll still go for actual metal constructs any day over epoxy. For one. You don't have to make it look like metal if it already is. And another, i'm better with a lathe and other metal working tools than I am at freeform mold making anyway.

Click to expand...

ok, your missing the point again.
the GoW build was posted as an example of the casting technique; not as an example of "Steampunk" builds.

I also stated that metal parts will be and are used where ever possible,
so long as the cost of said part does not go way over the top.

for example,
should I use the cylinder from the "Maverick";
the laser modules will be placed in either Aluminum or Copper heat sink,
but to machine the outer details of the "Revolver" type look, is beyond the machines I have access to at this time. (general machinist for over 10 years when my MVA happened)
so to have a slightly undersized metal core with a cast resin outer detail layer ecomplishes the best of both worlds with out breaking the bank.
but,
if you have a different cost benifit ratio happening, or better machines...
knock your self out. go for it.

but remember,
there are 8 fingers, not 4.
you can't see the solution if your focused on the problem.
look beyond the problem; think "Why Not..." in place of "No, that wont work..."

loosekannonn said:

ok, your missing the point again.
the GoW build was posted as an example of the casting technique; not as an example of "Steampunk" builds.

I also stated that metal parts will be and are used where ever possible,
so long as the cost of said part does not go way over the top.

for example,
should I use the cylinder from the "Maverick";
the laser modules will be placed in either Aluminum or Copper heat sink,
but to machine the outer details of the "Revolver" type look, is beyond the machines I have access to at this time. (general machinist for over 10 years when my MVA happened)
so to have a slightly undersized metal core with a cast resin outer detail layer ecomplishes the best of both worlds with out breaking the bank.
but,
if you have a different cost benifit ratio happening, or better machines...
knock your self out. go for it.

but remember,
there are 8 fingers, not 4.
you can't see the solution if your focused on the problem.
look beyond the problem; think "Why Not..." in place of "No, that wont work..."

Click to expand...

Not really missing the point. More stating that there's not really much I could do with resin that I couldn't, given enough time out in the shop, do with metal.

I'm not really sure how this whole thing got started though other than me saying painted nerf guns would make bad laser hosts from a durability standpoint.

I'm not denying that a lot can't be done with common materials. But you also have to remember not everyone is creative/mechanically inclined enough to build something cool looking from junk they have laying around. I wish I still had (or at least pics of) the 'laser gun' I built as a prop for a halloween costume back in 2003 out of a JDSU 2214 argon-ion head with a dead tube. It got scavenged/thrown away over the years though and the pictures got eaten when I had a dual drive failure in the raid array in my file server here in 2005.

Hows this for a steampunk host. Sorry my photography skills seriously suck.





It's got a 445 diode in it. I've got two microboosts in parallel at 800ma each so feeding it 1600ma. cast the pieces in bronze. though there are a few copper pieces as well.

Good Job :beer: All you need now is a pair of stempunk goggles and your set!

I used a 3/4inch copper pipe as a tube, an threaded lock cap and spring as an end cap and a treaded step down adapter as a nossle for the beam. I just ran the negative threw the copper pipe and ran a positive spring to the batts from the driver. Think of a copper mag-light . As soon as I can get a pic loaded I'll post them. But I can tell you it look incredibly steam punk.

Very nice host StridAst I really like it. How did you get it cast?

I used the equipment at my work to cast it. thanks for the praise. Sadly I've not had time to finish the steampunk goggles I am working on so my halloween costume this year will be incomplete

Simply awesome! It is nice to see a laser in anything but the usual host...

+1

Ah, the old 2 Microboosts in parallel ploy! Works like a charm doesn't it? Power hungry though, what source are you using?

Nice little number.

M

It looks like it took awhile to build, nice work!
How about some beam shots?

It's got an 18650 in it. As for power hungry, most definitely. However the power output is great

On the subject of beam shots, not as easy for me. The only decent camera setup I have access to is one at work. And that's not one I can just take anywhere to take some good beamshots. I suppose I could take some at my work. However singed holes in the photo tent might not go over so well..... Although, 00 what part of Utah are you in? And more to the point, how are you at taking beamshots? I'm in layton myself.

StridAst said:

It's got an 18650 in it. As for power hungry, most definitely. However the power output is great

On the subject of beam shots, not as easy for me. The only decent camera setup I have access to is one at work. And that's not one I can just take anywhere to take some good beamshots. I suppose I could take some at my work. However singed holes in the photo tent might not go over so well..... Although, 00 what part of Utah are you in? And more to the point, how are you at taking beamshots? I'm in layton myself.

Click to expand...

I'd be very interested if you could do a battery current draw measurement. I have a similar setup - 18650, 2600mAh, (I think), Parallel Microboosts at the same output - and it draws around 5.1/5.2Amps from the battery. It would be nice to compare this to yours if you don't mind as I've not seen others with the same? (Did I see an optical output reading? My LPM is now not able to measure mine but I have it off for testing at the moment so, again, would be good to compare... )

M

StridAst said:

It's got an 18650 in it. As for power hungry, most definitely. However the power output is great

On the subject of beam shots, not as easy for me. The only decent camera setup I have access to is one at work. And that's not one I can just take anywhere to take some good beamshots. I suppose I could take some at my work. However singed holes in the photo tent might not go over so well..... Although, 00 what part of Utah are you in? And more to the point, how are you at taking beamshots? I'm in layton myself.

Click to expand...

I am in Logan, I have a couple of cameras, we can try!

00Giorge said:

I am in Logan, I have a couple of cameras, we can try!

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That's not too far from Layton. About 40 min drive. We might have to get together and hang out a bit, or else perhaps I can send this host up your way via mail. As it's part of my halloween costume it will have to wait till at least next week of course.

Morgan said:

I'd be very interested if you could do a battery current draw measurement. I have a similar setup - 18650, 2600mAh, (I think), Parallel Microboosts at the same output - and it draws around 5.1/5.2Amps from the battery. It would be nice to compare this to yours if you don't mind as I've not seen others with the same? (Did I see an optical output reading? My LPM is now not able to measure mine but I have it off for testing at the moment so, again, would be good to compare... )

M

Click to expand...

Ah, when I said "power output" I meant more along the lines of "fry anything it points at" then a specific mw. I don't own a LPM. Like most here it's on my wish list. However I should be able to check the current draw easy enough. I'll try it with a fresh charge. It's case negative on the setup, so to measure current I would simply place the multimeter between the negative battery side and the host with the tailcap off. Right? (assuming my finger is pulling the trigger when I do this)