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Sci-fi lasers delivery times?

trussmonkey25

trussmonkey25

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At last it is here! I will update review thread with pictures and YouTube soon. It is awesome!
 





L

Laser Chick

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Ha-Ha ... you beat me to the reminder to thread the heat shrink tubing on before the wires are soldered together. You feel like a fool when you forget :)
 
ultralight01

ultralight01

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olympus mons said:
It's that easy. Get a few pieces of scrap wire to practice on and you'll be fine. You'll need electrical flux as well and don't forget to thread the shrink wrap on the wire before soldering. Watch a YouTube video first just to be sure.
Click to expand...
Is flux nessecary? I've seen plenty of people not use it.
 
trussmonkey25

trussmonkey25

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Arcain II 7 watt. I posted here because we were talking about long delivery times. I ordered in September. There's more than one thread about that and Sci fi lasers
 
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RedCowboy

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Thin rosin core solder is best for tight work, driver pads and such, 63/37 solidifies almost instantly when you remove the heat.

When you have 2 wires to attach it's best to strip off a 1/4 inch of insulation and "tin" the ends, that is you touch your soldering iron to the exposed wire and let the solder flow into it as you push, but you can just twist 2 pieces of stripped wire together and apply heat by touching the soldering iron to the joint, it helps to prime your soldering iron with a little solder so it looks wet, then push your rosin core solder into the joint, it will flow into the joint. Pull your soldering iron and solder away and it will cool to a solid joint.

If attaching a wire to a driver pad or diode pin then you want your wire end ready with liquefied solder already soaked into the wire end so you can attach it quickly without damaging your driver/diode.

SANY0594_zpskgzojnn8.jpg
 
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diachi

diachi

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RedCowboy said:
Thin rosin core solder is best for tight work, driver pads and such, 63/47 solidifies almost instantly.

When you have 2 wires to attach it's best to strip off a 1/4 inch of insulation and "tin" the ends, that is you touch your soldering iron to the exposed wire and let the solder flow into it as you push, but you can just twist 2 pieces of stripped wire together wnd apply heat by touching the soldering iron to the joint, it helps to prine your soldering iron with a little solder so it looks wet, then push your rosin core solder into the joint, it will flow into the joint. Pull your soldering iron and solder away and it will cool to a solid joint.
Click to expand...


Shouldn't that be 63/37? :p

Quick question - don't want to derail the thread or anything. I've always used 60/40, is there much of a difference when using 63/37? I'd heard it was better but haven't tried it.
 
RedCowboy

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It solidifies faster when you remove the heat/iron so the smaller work is where it really helps, also setting your temp helps too, I just wing it and go by feel a lot of the time, but with driver pads and diode pins you don't want a cold joint but you also don't want to overheat your expensive components...in short it solidifies faster and melts at a lower temp.

Capture_01062016_192253_zpsovfzzyz2.png
 
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diachi

diachi

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RedCowboy said:
It solidifies faster when you remove the heat/iron so the smaller work is where it really helps, also setting your temp helps too, I just wing it and go by feel a lot of the time, but with driver pads and diode pins you don't want a cold joint but you also don't want to overheat your expensive components...in short it solidifies faster and melts at a lower temp.
Click to expand...

Cool! Didn't know that, thanks! Will need to order a new soldering station and some of that solder before I do another build. :yh:

Would give you a +,but need to spread some around first! :(
 
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ultralight01

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Is it worth it to create a review on this forum when I get it? There don't seem to be many.
 
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