Revolution in diode cooling!

Oil as mentioned is a pretty poor heat conductor, it works, but it doesn't work well.

I am just wondering... if we're talking about submerging and sealing it what would happen if we simply put it in some liquid nitrogen? The LN only evaporates once in contact with air, so if you sealed it inside the heatsink shouldn't it keep it cool?

I guess there is one problem with sealing the container with liquids and then heating them... You risk a small explosion if the pressure builds too high. I know for PC heatsinks, they use what they call "Heat Pipe" technology, which simply means that they have pipes that wrap around the heatsink allowing the pressure to move 'hot' air/fluids off of the heating surface through the pipes to cool down and then back into the main heatsink. Might be more trouble than it's worth for this, but that's where the technology went from standard heatsinks on the PC to today's current heatsinks.

Heat pipe - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

I am just wondering... if we're talking about submerging and sealing it what would happen if we simply put it in some liquid nitrogen? The LN only evaporates once in contact with air, so if you sealed it inside the heatsink shouldn't it keep it cool?

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You have a physics problem here.
Nitrogen is a gas like any other, it can be liquidfied by extreme pressure or low temperature. As a low temperature liquid it will stay cold as long as the heat it absorbs from it's surroundings is disposed off by part of it evaporating.

Try think of a pot of water keeping the stove surface chilled to 100C* for as long as there is water in it to boil off.
*That is boiling point, it is something else in foreign degrees.

Grass Roots Castle: DIY Water Purification Systems

1. Boiling: Water is heated hot enough and long enough to inactivate or kill micro-organisms that normally live in water at room temperature. Near sea level, a vigorous rolling boil for at least one minute is sufficient. At high altitudes (greater than two kilometers or 5000 feet) three minutes is recommended.[1] In areas where the water is "hard" (that is, containing significant dissolved calcium salts), boiling decomposes the bicarbonate ions, resulting in partial precipitation as calcium carbonate. This is the "fur" that builds up on kettle elements, etc., in hard water areas.

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http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hard_water

combination of calcium ions and bicarbonate ions in the water. It can be removed by boiling the water

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millirad - "It isn't de-ionzed fully but it does significantly reduce the ions in-solution."

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Cyparagon said:

I call bullshit. Source?

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Looong ago at a company where I worked, we had a vapor phase soldering machine. It used two high boiling point Freon compounds. I don't remember the Freon numbers but Algor likely outlawed them.

HMike

Am I missing something or is this thread supposed to have pics? Seems like it should but i'm seeing none, heh.