My first high-power laser build, need a little help.

What's up guys! This is going to be my first "real" laser build. I have been interested in building a high-powered laser for quite some time, I just never really gave a lot of thought to the concept. Well, here I am now, ready to build one. I've been doing a lot of research online for the past week and stumbled across this forum, and you guys are very helpful and knowledgeable!

Now, this is going to be a somewhat crude design (the appearance will be crude) because I want to be able to easily mix and match different parts in the future, and I also want this design to show all of the working components on the outside for demonstration purposes (mostly for me to learn more).

So take it easy on me guys I am open to lots of suggestions, but I also want to keep this first project under $200 to start off (that's what I told my wife at least, haha). As I get into the mix of things I will definitely increase my budget as needed (or wanted )!

DIODE:
I am really drawn to the blue lasers, I like that color a lot (yeah, I'm a noob, picking a color because it is pretty), but I also really like what I have been hearing about the M140 diode which is 445nm. I was checking out some other 605nm and 510nm diodes, but ultimately decided to go with the 445nm.
Now, I have heard that the M140 is rated for 2 watts, and the guy that runs DTR's Laser Shop has confirmed that the M140 can take 1.8 amps and deliver over 2 watts of optical power very nicely (given sufficient cooling of course). I've heard a lot of good things from you guys about DTR's Laser Shop, so that gives me confidence

LENS:
After way too much time researching these darned lenses, I have decided to go with the G-2 lens. I am going to buy the entire assembly together which inludes the M140 diode in a copper module with leads, and a 405-G-2 glass lens from DTR's.

DRIVER:
I have debated back and forth on building my own driver, which I can do because I have pretty strong background in electronics, soldering, building circuits, etc. but I have been eyeballing these X-drive drivers and they sound really frigging awesome. I'm thinking about getting the Round 16.8mm V6 1.8A X-drive so I can take full advantage of the 1.8 amps that it delivers. Also, I will connect a 12 volt regulated PSU to it, rather than a battery, again for demonstration and testing purposes. I'm not quite ready to go hand-held yet
Anybody think I should build my own or get the X-drive??? Anyone think there is a better driver for under $30 or $40? Let me know! Again, I am way open to suggestions, as this is my first legit laser build.

COOLING:
I am a spaz, so I might do active liquid cooling. I know it sounds crazy but I can rig that up pretty easily. For the body of the laser, I am going to use a solid aluminum block measuring 2x2x6 inches. I will insert the M140 module into a pre-drilled hole of the proper diameter and depth, coating it with thermal compound before insertion for maximum heat conductivity. I will also have several copper or aluminum heat sinks along the body, with the liquid cooling block on top.

SAFETY:
I need goggles but I have no idea where to even start with those.

So that's it, am I missing anything critical? I can use all the help and suggestions I can get. THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!

I am not very familiar with the X-drivers, I know there are a few different versions but I didn't know any of them could run on 12V, be sure you know what your doing so you don't fry your first laser. The first time is when your most likely to make a mistake. Everything else sounds OK except the 12V, a linear driver can take higher voltages but will dissipate more heat.

Alan

PainTrane117 said:

Now, this is going to be a somewhat crude design (the appearance will be crude) because I want to be able to easily mix and match different parts in the future, and I also want this design to show all of the working components on the outside for demonstration purposes (mostly for me to learn more).

Click to expand...

Well, I'm your man! Any time I try and build something pretty for myself, it ends up in
miserable failure. I've been more successful with wires hanging out all over the place and
running across the kitchen table. :beer:

PainTrane117 said:

DIODE:
I am really drawn to the blue lasers, I like that color a lot (yeah, I'm a noob, picking a color because it is pretty), but I also really like what I have been hearing about the M140 diode which is 445nm. I was checking out some other 605nm and 510nm diodes, but ultimately decided to go with the 445nm.

Click to expand...

The M140 is great for burning. If you're looking for beam quality, though, a single mode like
the PL450 is much better. It will burn stuff too, just not so much.

PainTrane117 said:

LENS:
After way too much time researching these darned lenses, I have decided to go with the G-2 lens. I am going to buy the entire assembly together which inludes the M140 diode in a copper module with leads, and a 405-G-2 glass lens from DTR's.

Click to expand...

The G2 is great for burning, but you should also get a glass 3 element for beam viewing.

PainTrane117 said:

DRIVER:
I have debated back and forth on building my own driver, which I can do because I have pretty strong background in electronics, soldering, building circuits, etc.

Click to expand...

The X-Drive will run fine from a 5A power supply. Just don't get confused and buy an X-
Boost. If you build your own, it's best to start with something like the DDL. Maybe you
even have an LM317 already lying around.

PainTrane117 said:

COOLING:
I am a spaz, so I might do active liquid cooling.

Click to expand...

Liquid cooling is very common in high power lab lasers.

PainTrane117 said:

SAFETY:
I need goggles but I have no idea where to even start with those.

Click to expand...

Get the Eagle Pair™ 190-540 from Survival Laser.

PainTrane117 said:

SAFETY:
I need goggles but I have no idea where to even start with those.

So that's it, am I missing anything critical? I can use all the help and suggestions I can get. THANKS IN ADVANCE!!!

Click to expand...

If you're tight on budget, get the Uvex Orange series.
They do an amazing job for $8.

The x-drive is a ridiculously good driver and I completely recommend it as it provides solid current and doesn't require driver heatsinking (most of the time). The only thing that I am not too clear about is the cooling. What do you mean by putting everything into a block? If you do that then where will you store the liquid? Is this becoming a labby? Other than that everything sounds good.

Good luck with the build?

Pi R Squared said:

I am not very familiar with the X-drivers, I know there are a few different versions but I didn't know any of them could run on 12V, be sure you know what your doing so you don't fry your first laser. The first time is when your most likely to make a mistake. Everything else sounds OK except the 12V, a linear driver can take higher voltages but will dissipate more heat.
Alan

Click to expand...

Yeah, definitely scared that I'm gonna build everything and hook it all up and blow up my diode. It's a good point you made about the 12V supply. The X-drive V6 can take up to 16V input and the V7 can take up to 9V input... I have decided that I am going to go with a 7.5V 6A power supply after your suggestion, just so that I can hook up a V6 and V7 if I ever want to.

The Lightning Stalker said:

Well, I'm your man! Any time I try and build something pretty for myself, it ends up in
miserable failure. I've been more successful with wires hanging out all over the place and
running across the kitchen table. :beer:

Click to expand...

Oh most definitely, I have only built a few pretty things but most of my stuff looks like a mad scientist's contraption haha. Functionality is what matters most to me! Plus, I'm kind of utilitarian. It's ugly, but gets the job done. Just like an AK-47.

The Lightning Stalker said:

The M140 is great for burning. If you're looking for beam quality, though, a single mode like
the PL450 is much better. It will burn stuff too, just not so much.

Click to expand...

I didn't realize the M140 wasn't a single mode. To be honest I don't know enough about single and multi modes as it is. Definitely something for me to read up on! So single modes generally produce higher quality beams? Interesting.

The Lightning Stalker said:

The G2 is great for burning, but you should also get a glass 3 element for beam viewing.

Click to expand...

Beam viewing... that sounds a lot more scientific and specialized than it probably is, but maybe I am wrong? Is that literally looking at a beam to see if it is a nice quality, or is that by measuring and viewing with specific instruments the wavelength, uniformity, etc? Is the G2 lens just able to handle more power than a 3-element? Would a 3-element be better for longer range than a G2 because the beam doesn't 'scatter' as much?

The Lightning Stalker said:

The X-Drive will run fine from a 5A power supply. Just don't get confused and buy an X-
Boost. If you build your own, it's best to start with something like the DDL. Maybe you
even have an LM317 already lying around.

Click to expand...

No worries there, I definitely know the difference between buck and boost. And I have a power supply more than capable of handling several amps which should play nicely with the X-drive. I have a few LM317's lying around my lab, but I'm really liking the X-drive, it's all prebuilt and compact.

The Lightning Stalker said:

Get the Eagle Pair™ 190-540 from Survival Laser.

Click to expand...

I saw those online - they look pretty awesome. Lots of people like them I guess. As long as my eyes still work

ryansoh3 said:

If you're tight on budget, get the Uvex Orange series.
They do an amazing job for $8.

Click to expand...

Thanks for the suggestion! Good price, too. I'll check those out! I like to be able to see stuff and not be blind. Makes life a little easier

upaa27 said:

... The only thing that I am not too clear about is the cooling. What do you mean by putting everything into a block? If you do that then where will you store the liquid? Is this becoming a labby? Other than that everything sounds good.
Good luck with the build?

Click to expand...

It's a good question and I laughed pretty hard because I just realized my description was a little wacky. Ha. Basically, it's gonna be a solid aluminum block... I'll post a picture of it, I can't even explain it. LOL. Bear with me.

BIG QUESTION

This is a picture from me, link is safe. The picture won't show in the forum properly for some reason.

PainTrane117 said:

Beam viewing... that sounds a lot more scientific and specialized than it probably is, but maybe I am wrong? Is that literally looking at a beam to see if it is a nice quality, or is that by measuring and viewing with specific instruments the wavelength, uniformity, etc?

Click to expand...

Just looking at it

PainTrane117 said:

Is the G2 lens just able to handle more power than a 3-element?

Click to expand...

No. They are both glass. The G2 just passes more light.

PainTrane117 said:

Would a 3-element be better for longer range than a G2 because the beam doesn't 'scatter' as much?

Click to expand...

Yes, that is correct. A G2 is more for closeup burning and a 3 element for beamshots.

PainTrane117 said:

BIG QUESTION

Click to expand...

That looks fine to me. Just don't forget to touch the wires of the driver together to
discharge any capacitance before attaching the diode and take ESD precautions.

PainTrane117 said:

BIG QUESTION

This is a picture from me, link is safe. The picture won't show in the forum properly for some reason.

Click to expand...

It wont display if you use the address of a page the image is on, it has to be the image itself and it has to be enclosed in the IMG tags like this:



Also be sure to not post any things larger than 800x600.

Alan

Thanks for pointer there Pi R Squared, I'll be sure to do that next time with images. And thanks everyone for participating and answering my questions! Everything seems to be in place for me to actually get building my laser. I will make sure to let you all know how it goes! It may take a month or so, but I will post pics in a new thread when it is finished. Thanks again!