my first build

grgguy · Apr 9, 2012

So I have been reading , copying and pasting for months now. I built my 1st driver lastnite ....It seems like my laser should be a bit brighter. I cant get it to light a match ? Is it my lens, is it my driver? If I were to remove 1 of my 10ohm resistors would that give it a boost in power? I'm a noob so please be gentle.

( Lighting matches is not my final goal. I thought that it would be a good way to see if I'm getting towards my ultimate goal. which by the way would be lighting a fire on the moon with my handheld from my porch)

http://laserpointerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37500&stc=1&d=1333999714
http://laserpointerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37499&stc=1&d=1333999714
http://laserpointerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37498&stc=1&d=1333999714
http://laserpointerforums.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=37497&stc=1&d=1333999714

PersonGuyDude · Apr 9, 2012

Did you measure the current to your laser diode with a multimeter?
If it's getting the current you want (you haven't said what diode/wavelength you are using, so I can't suggest a current), then it is something else. Perhaps your lens or something, keep in mind it is pretty hard (imo) to get most non-445/405 lasers to light a white/red match without de-focusing it.

grgguy · Apr 9, 2012

I believe is a 660 long closed can ....another noon question how do I measure mA with my multi meter. When I measure the voltage it says im getting 2.9 volts dc which can't be correct? I thought it would only receive mA? My input to the driver itself is 9 volts dc from a transformer that's plugged into a wall socket.

grgguy · Apr 10, 2012

Did I answer the question wrongly?

PersonGuyDude · Apr 10, 2012

No, I've been at work/school since my last post hehe.
Mmmm not a LPC red diode then, those are open cans.
I believe with a diode attached you would put the multimeter positive and negative prods on the respective wires on the output of your driver (the ones that power the diode).
What you get in mV would be your mAh current to the diode. For example if you are reading 0.421 volts your diode is getting 0.421 amps, or 421 milliamps

Keep in mind that i've only done this with test loads, but it should work just as well/better with a real diode.

Where did you get your diode?

grgguy · Apr 10, 2012

I pulled it from a dvd/ writer....I.also have a short open can and a long open can ...which would you Recomend for more power ...also I metered the power at the diode and got 2.9 volts? Does that equal 2900 mA? Im obviously doing something wrong?

PersonGuyDude · Apr 11, 2012

Yeah that doesn't sound right at all, no way a dvd burner diode could handle 2.9amps (445 diodes can only handle up to 1.8A max).
I'm sorry thats the limit of my knowledge, I can't really suggest a driver/current setting with a random diode.
Though I can suggest this, most DVD writers are rather low power reds, I would go with a LPC-826 HighTechDealZ - 650nm LPC826 Red Laser Diode in Aixiz Module

Or, if you have the money, this 635nm diode would be MANY times brighter, and still red:
https://sites.google.com/site/dtrlpf/home/diodes/mitsubishi-635nm-300mw-diodes

Hope this helps!

sesam · Apr 11, 2012

I think the voltage measured on the diode is okey, If I remember correct it's around 2.5V

Are you using a linear driver, I looks like you are.
Read more here Laser driver - It can be done
or search the forum, and you will understand how to set the wanted current to
your diode.
But be careful, to mutch current and the diode will get killed.

I have a simular testdriver LM317 that works up to 1.5A and it's easy to replace with a LM350 to get 3A.

Also! Search on the forum on how to build a test load, it is useful, and can avoid some dead diodes in the future.

grgguy · Apr 11, 2012

Thank you for the advice , I'm definitley going to do some more reading. I killed 3 diodes yesterday including my loc . So it looks like its back to the drawing board and the computer repair shop for me.(more diodes, I buy broken dvd/r units for $5 each ).

sesam · Apr 13, 2012

You can also try this page here on the forum, it was one of the first I read!
http://laserpointerforums.com/f51/i-want-build-laser-thread-52972.html
:yh:

PersonGuyDude · Apr 13, 2012

I have killed at least $50 worth of cheap diodes before I wised up and got the following items:
real drivers, yes DIY drivers work, but they are prone to failure IMO(for a newbie that is).
a real diode press tool
a good test load
a vice or some other reliable method to press the diodes into your modules

There are a couple members here selling linear drivers for less than $7, the ghostdrive comes to mind...
As well as a presale going on for $11.50-15 boost drivers (only one battery needed for boost drivers).

Once you have these items it's alot easier to make pointers, and you will save money in the long run!

goodluck

cilegray · Apr 13, 2012

PersonGuyDude said:
No, I've been at work/school since my last post hehe.
Mmmm not a LPC red diode then, those are open cans.
I believe with a diode attached you would put the multimeter positive and negative prods on the respective wires on the output of your driver (the ones that power the diode).
What you get in mV would be your mAh current to the diode. For example if you are reading 0.421 volts your diode is getting 0.421 amps, or 421 milliamps
Keep in mind that i've only done this with test loads, but it should work just as well/better with a real diode.

Where did you get your diode?

This is only true for a test load.

OP : To do this with your diode you would have to disconnect one of your diode pins from the driver and connect your multimeter to 'bridge' the gap. Meter leads in correct sockets, etc...

I dont really recommend doing it as powering the driver without a load attached (if your leads lose contact) you can risk killing your driver and your diode.

I think you now need to look into another project, a test load ^^

PersonGuyDude · Apr 13, 2012

Yes, thank you for saying that Cilegray, I came to that conclusion a couple hours ago when I thought about how my test load is actually wired, sorry for giving you bad info grgguy :yabbem:

Of course, a test load isn't very useful with a diode of unknown origin, not sure how he powered one of those in the first place without killing it

grgguy · Apr 13, 2012

I think I'm gonna just buy some drivers for $7-15. The amount of money and time it took me to even build what I have was far greater then that. At least now i have a basic understanding of how these drivers and Diodes work. I'll continue to lurk and and read and follow your valuable advice for awhile then try again.

PersonGuyDude, No apologies necessary! This is solid advise

a good test load
a vice or some other reliable method to press the diodes into your modules

There are a couple members here selling linear drivers for less than $7, the ghostdrive comes to mind...
As well as a presale going on for $11.50-15 boost drivers (only one battery needed for boost drivers).

Once you have these items it's alot easier to make pointers, and you will save money in the long run!

my first build

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