First Build S4 with 2 Heatsinks up front and modified driver heatsink

Quick Specs: 9mm 445 w/ 3 element lens, 1.8 A X-boost Adjustable and more heatsinking than most S4's (can change driver output with screwdriver if front of host is removed.) Will be switching out diode, putting a 16x 405 in it soon.

Pics Attached! ** EDIT Just inserted some for those too lazy to look at attachments.







First, thank you so much to lpf and those whose have been helping me learn what's what. This is a product of obsessively researching for weeks, a ridiculous amount of time has been spent on learning everything I can about building lasers (I work and go to school normally, good thing for my Festivus/winter break!). I tend to get really into the details of things so it takes awhile. Working on other lasers concurrently. Appropriate Eagle Eye's were used with the finished device.



Most of this just kind of evolved, I didn't really plan it all out. I added the extra front heatsink because I accidentally ordered an extra one, just used arctic alumina thermal epoxy (holds strong!!) I used Arctic Silver between the normal heatsink and the host, plus between the module and the two heatsinks. To heatsink the driver and add to the whole thing I did something a little different. The inside wall of the pill has a cut copper coupling (short pipe) fitted to it and there are stacked copper wire segments soldered together in sections where there is no wire. I did some searching online (see link below) and ended up using solder that has a better thermal conductivity than ~63/37 lead solders. (SnAg - 96% Tin and 4% Silver, from Harbor Freight). I might look into jewelry solder more sometime if appropriate. It just happened that the pill rests farther forward, it may be touching the diode heatsink (need to verify this but if it isn't right now, it is very very close and I can surely make it if tried enough). The wires are in a recess created by shifting the module forward, it is only ~1/3 or 1/2 of the way in the normal heatsink. The driver ended up being pretty far outside of the pill, didn't mean for that to happen. Since the pill can move forward this was ok. I keep it a just bit unscrewed so it isn't fully compressed and too tight. It is still quite firm so no problem there.

Thermal Conductivity of Solders - Electronics Cooling Magazine - Focused on Thermal Management, TIMs, Fans, Heat Sinks, CFD Software, LEDs/Lighting Electronics Cooling Magazine ? Focused on Thermal Management, TIMs, Fans, Heat Sinks, CFD Software, LE





I used a dime to contact the driver, since they are 91.5% copper. I had an idea for 100% copper (using a cut and flattened copper coupling) but the dime is already quite good I think. The X-boost can be adjusted through the aligned hole on the pill's face.







The power of this thing blew me away. The heatsinking was pretty damn good for something this size! The driver was putting out 1.4A when I tested it. I think a full power battery will put it up to 1.8A I am waiting for my good charger to arrive to charge my Pan B's to full capacity (Panasonic NCR18650B). I used the dreamcharger groupbuy code, still works!




Everything was bought from members of LPF except the copper coupling\wire\solder.

Flaminpyro: X-boost ADJ and silicon wire
DTR: diode, 3 element lens, and module (all my diodes are from him)
Survival Laser: Eagle Eyes, S4 host, heatsinks, and focus adapter

Tried to "keep it in the family" and buy from lpf members! I feel better about the quality of their products.

Again, thank you so much for answering all my random questions. It would have been a lot easier to follow a tutorial but I learned a lot more this way.

Open to constructive criticism, questions, comments, and snyde remarks.

I did a little reading up on the US dime,
and pre-1965 dimes were 90/10
silver/copper. Currently dimes have a
copper core, so they are still a better
option than a post-1982 penny. Overall, it
looks like a good build, and it works.
That is what really counts.

Wow, 90% silver and 10% copper! That sounds like the jackpot. On ebay someone is selling a 10 coin mix before that time for 9.95 inc shipping. Might be a good option! Just did some searching and this is what I've found.

Specific Heat: Metals - Specific Heats

Copper 0.39
Silver 0.23
Aluminum 0.91

Thermal Conductivity: Thermal Conductivity of some common Materials and Gases

Copper 401
Silver 429
Aluminum 205


It kind of seems like the silver would make them too valuable to sell that cheap even if it is mostly pennies and nickels one gets.

Composition of old US Coins: http://coinsite.com/composition-of-pre-1965-modern-us-coinage/

Thanks for the "good build". Definitely works! Like an idiot I put it in my front shirt pocket and bent down to pick something up. It fell about 3 feet on asphalt like usually almost happens. (can only fit so many in bottom pockets lol) Still works fine though and only has a very small nick. Very solid. I never put them in my pocket facing up (towards my eyes)

Added: cutting a 1/2" copper coupling down the middle, flattening and cutting with tin snips or using copper picture hanging wire are also good I've found. The coupling with stop (dimple in middle) was 55 cents at home depot. The others without the dimple were a lot more for some reason.

The Lightning Stalker said:

.... still a better
option than a post-1982 penny.

Click to expand...

Some 1982 pennies are like the new worthless ones, copper plated zinc. to be sure its a 95% copper penny, get 1981 and older, or do the flip test on 82s. the copper ones "ring" the zinc ones sound flat when flipped, no ring sound

Shakenawake said:

Some 1982 pennies are like the new worthless ones, copper plated zinc. to be sure its a 95% copper penny, get 1981 and older, or do the flip test on 82s. the copper ones "ring" the zinc ones sound flat when flipped, no ring sound

Click to expand...

That's interesting. Good to know! I just added the pictures into the post BTW, figure many might miss them otherwise!