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DDl driver etching :)

GreenLaser

GreenLaser

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hello.
i have always wanted to try etching my own PCB.
i was wondering if i would be allowed to etch DDl drivers and sell them to mates???( do i need permission from DDl)
secondly how much does a usual etching kit cost?
cheers.
i will be visiting my dicksmith tomorrow to purchase the stuff will let you know how it goes.
cheers
p.s im australian
 





HIMNL9

HIMNL9

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First of all, careful with the acids, ok ?

Regardless if you choose the slow or the fast system, basical precautions for work with chemicals must be taken.

The slow way (ferric perclorure) is more safe, but still need a well ventilated space, and always remember that ferric perclorure solutions dirt practically anything, and in permanent way (and NEVER dare to use aluminium items with it, if you don't want to start a very quick reaction :p)

The fast way (cloridric acid and hydrogen peroxide) requires also some basic safety items, like plastic gloves and (suggested) a pair of clear goggles for protect the eyes from drops.

About the DDL driver, i really don't know if there's any patent about it, cause it's simply a basical application of the LM317 regulator serie ..... maybe the PCB draw can be claimed as "personal work", but i'm not sure, you need to check with the original designer .....
 
GreenLaser

GreenLaser

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ok here is my PCB design could you have a look. please not + & - ARE NOT MARKED.
i hope the attachment workes
 
GreenLaser

GreenLaser

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ok here it is. please tell me if i have done it right.
cheers
 

Attachments

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HIMNL9

HIMNL9

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Sorry to say this, but i think you've forgot some things ..... like a track, the in and out pads (not all like to solder the wires on the same pads of the components), the "safety limit" resistor and a resistor on the output for discharge the cap .....

But i'm basing on my own circuit, what circuit are you using ? (schematic diagram)
 
bobhaha

bobhaha

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GreenLaser please use the EDIT button... that is just common forum etiquette.

Also as HIMNL9 has commented, all equipment should be plastic when working with these chemicals, but I'm pretty sure it would all be included in a good quality kit.
 
GreenLaser

GreenLaser

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ol here is the better view. does this look right.
cheers
here is also the chematic its based off.
 

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Rafa

Rafa

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I would also recommend (bad english, the thing that you put over the nose and the mouth and filters the air)

Cloridric Acid is very hazardous.
 
GreenLaser

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yes i have a "respirator" and i am using ferric chloride. some input on wether my schematic is right??
cheers
 
Rafa

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Seems right, anyway you should place two more pads, one fot the batt/psu + and another one for ground.
 
GreenLaser

GreenLaser

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yes i am trying to modify that. thanks for the input. can i get more ppl to confurm before i commit to the build.
cheers
 
HIMNL9

HIMNL9

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The schematic can work (maybe better add a 100uF 25V capacitor also on the input, for make it work a bit more stable, but can work) ..... and the tracks are wired ok, also if is not the more easy way .....

Ferric perclorure does not require a breather or filter, if you use it in a well ventilated place ..... but if you already have it, better use it than not ;)
 
GreenLaser

GreenLaser

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ok thanks. so you guys are confirming this will work?? i am having epic trouble adding the + ans - pads ro the schematic. working on it now.
cheers
attached is the new design with + and - pads. for somereason i dont think i have the 1n4004 diode the right way and things arnt connected right? i really need some tripple checking.
cheers
 

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