Best soldering iron for diodes and beginners?

Don't worry too insanely much about the heat, we aren't talking about milliseconds, but tinning both connections is incredibly useful whether you're dealing with diode or just regular wires. It makes things so much easier! With a tinned diode leg/wires you can just touch the two together and press the iron on it for a second or two and have a good joint.

Hemlock, I'm not strong on chemistry so I may be mistaken here, but I recall the flux being what eats away at the metal. The flux is an acid and is especially active at the high temps of soldering. Not really an important detail I guess, but I don't think its really important to get rid of the solder on the iron, just the flux (perhaps easier said than done since your solder often comes with a core of flux in it)

Ya, soldering is alright if you keep a steady hand / pre-tin as much as possible / solder quick (apply little heat to electronics)

I don't use flux either. Rosin-core solder already has flux inside it.

sciullo779 said:

maybe its my solder, if i remember correctly i used flux core lol, but my soldering iron tip looks like a hook from corrosion lol

Click to expand...

I got the Radio Shack one too, those tips do eat away fast on those. One way to get a tiny solder point though I guess, worked for me Temp controlled and a little higher priced, or a good soldering station are the best it seems. You get what you pay for. Simple soldering though and beginning to mess with soldering things, you really need something you don't have to much money in. After you get more proficient then get some better equipment, that's just my opinion though. I'm still doin alright with my Corrosion-Master from R.S. :beer:

20W "Jacar" iron, buy the extra fine tip, and realy good fluxcore solder I found is the only way to go for fine work like this.
I've just started on lasers but have been involved in the electronic hobby for years and found that good tools makes for good work.
I see another member from Cairns here, Gday.

Any one ever tried these?

Gas Powered Soldering Iron - Ebay

I've tried Butane powered and Battery Powered Soldering Irons..
They are great in the field if 120vac is not available....

If you want to cut down on connection soldering time... pre-tinning
the connections is a must.

There are 2 main types of solder Flux... there is Rosin Flux used in the
electronics field...
(I know there are other water soluble fluxes..etc.. for electronics)
And then there is Acid Flux used in the sheet metal and Plumbing fields...

ACID FLUX should NOT be used for Electronic Assembly...
IT IS HIGHLY CORROSIVE...

To see if your Flux or Flux core solder is Acid.... just touch it to the tip
of your tongue... (you will know)


Jerry

As in any other field,using the right tool for the job has a Lot to do with how good your work is.
Like in my work (mobile fleet mechanic) I use only Snap-On tools. People ask me "how much was that 3/8 ratchet" They freak when I tell them $149.00 "That's insane to spend that much on a ratchet, I can get one at Wal-mart for $3.99 that does the same thing" Then I have to explain how, when you do this for a living, things are a little different.
Those Wal-mart ones would last me about 10 minutes in the field. Not to mention how much aggravation it would cause breaking one after another. Not to mention THEY WORK LIKE CRAP, which they are.
The same story applies to soldering irons. Use the best and you will get the best results.
I used Weller for years until I got seriously into electronics
I then bought a Hakko 936 station and 472B desoldering station. They made my work (now my hobby) so much easier. Built in ESD protection, temp. regulation accurate to +- 1%, thermal recovery after soldering a joint <2 seconds, SMD Parallel Remover,Built in vacuum pump for desoldering. Price $625.97
Worth every penny!!!++
I am getting ready to do my first PHR build. Never soldered a LD in my life. Am I worried about killing the diode? Not even a little. I know I have the right tools for the job!!!