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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

3 variable power lasers

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There's a couple stumbling blocks I've run into when looking at digital pots... First off, they're usually only rated to a couple mA, so at 3-5v they're only capable of handling something like a few hundredths of a watt, whereas for a laser driver you're going to need it to be able to handle at least 1/2W. My half watt potentiometers heat up quite a bit when working with 400+mA, I've done the calculation before and they're dissipating something like 490mW of heat.
The second problem I've found is that digital pots are usually in the 10k-100k ohm range, where we really need the 1ohm to 10ohm range.. The digipots you linked to are 10 ohm to 10k ohm, so even at their lowest setting they're 10 ohms +- 20%, so the highest power you're going to be able to set them to is 125mA +-20%.

Oh, and the problem with simply using analog pots is that if their wiper leaves the track even for a millisecond, your output will jump to 1500mA.
 





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Oh, and the problem with simply using analog pots is that if their wiper leaves the track even for a millisecond, your output will jump to 1500mA.
That is not true with a ddl drivers, at least. If the wiper would happen to open the circuit the current will go down to ~10mA.
 
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That is not true with a ddl drivers, at least. If the wiper would happen to open the circuit the current will go down to ~10mA.

Oh yeah... Durr... Can you tell I haven't had any coffee this morning?

Infinite resistance, zero resistance, I suppose there's a difference..

Anyways, I still think PWM is where you want to go with this... You should be able to do it either with a couple 555 timers or preferably with a microcontroller.
 
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Lol, I agree on PWM. It's definitely the easiest way to dim the lasers in a linear matter, and by far more efficient than using resistance.
 
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Lol, I agree on PWM. It's definitely the easiest way to dim the lasers in a linear matter, and by far more efficient than using resistance.

Thanks for the support :p


Hey, FML...have you lost it this month?
Remember, if you think about it... you just lost.
 

HIMNL9

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^ Sorry to have to say it, but the LT one is a step-down (so the input voltage must be more high than the output voltage, so no single-cell use), and the maxim one, well, it have an 1A max out, but have you already tried to work with a 28 pins TQFN package, without industrial tools ? ..... remember that the whole component is 5 x 5 mm, and the pins are under it, not coming out from the sides ;)


@ roddenberry: this is a common mistake ..... the "adjust" part of the LM317, in current regulator, take the same current of the load ..... the power must be calculated about the 1,25V of the reference and this current , so, as example, if you set it for 500mA, the power that you need to dissipate on the resistor is 1,25*0,5, so 0,625W (or 625mW, if you prefer), then you need a resistor of at least 1 W, in this case (the power that you ratr the resistors, are the maximum power that they can hold, not the suggested power , so, an 1/4W resistor take at max 1/4W, then fry :p)
 
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And that is exactly why a digital pot (that can only handle 1-2mA of current)
could not be used in a DDL circuit...

The MAX16812 looks like over-kill.... and yes... it is a "biatch" to solder by hand.

It would be nice if the OP would let us know the Type (nm) and Power (mW) of
the Lasers he wants to use for this project....

No sense in looking for a 10 Amp PWM Driver is he's going to use $1 store reds...
Just a thought.....:whistle:


Jerry
 
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well the nm wavelength isnt my concern, any will do but what im trying to accomplish is making a stationary not handheld 3-5 module laser with a max total output of 1w.
 

Things

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Well, if it's going to be a lab type module, why not use a Flexmod? They aren't cheap, but they are pretty damn good analog drivers. You would adjust the brightness by the voltage of the modulation input ( 0 to 5v )

I'd give you a link but I can't seem to find it, someone else could help out ..
 
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@OP: You would want to install potentiometers between the drivers and the diodes.

Those are some shi:)tty drivers if you can vary the current by varying the resistance. They're supposed to be constant current drivers.
 
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They are constant current if you supply enough voltage on the input...
and as we already know by the O-Like Green modules and the Dilda..
varying the input voltage of the cheaper drivers changes the Laser's
power output...


Jerry
 
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These drivers have been shown not to work very well...

Purchase a "rkcstr" driver or build your own "DDL" driver...
The info is all over the forum on these.... all you need to do
is a little research... The [Search] button will help you do that..

Jerry
 




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