WTB: JDSU 2211-20SLE Argon Controller

Hi everyone, I have recently received my argon laser. I am looking for someone you either has a spare commercial controller, or can build me one out of parts.

I have no electronics experience so am unable to build one myself. The model is the one stated in the title. JDSU 2211-20SLE, and needs to have a visual reading of the amperage I am delivering. The laser runs at 8A steadily, but can go up 10A maximum. It also could have a idle setting. It connects using a DB-25 cable, this maybe common knowledge, but it's worth mentioning.

If someone's building you a controller you don't necessarily need the idle setting - just current control and a current monitor should be enough. If you turn the current all the way down it'll be at idle anyway.

Good luck!

Yep, i agree, it is not a necessity to have idle. As long as it safely starts up my argon, i'll be happy.
Just reworded to "could" instead of "should".

I have a couple of 2113 power supplies which I believe will work with a 2211; whereabouts are you located? If you're near me, you're welcome to test the head with one to see if it works correctly.

Noblegas said:

I have a couple of 2113 power supplies which I believe will work with a 2211; whereabouts are you located? If you're near me, you're welcome to test the head with one to see if it works correctly.

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Just to confirm - you are correct - that PSU should work fine with that head. Nice of you to offer! :beer:

You can build this out of a project box, a connector, a pot, a couple resistors, a switch, and a millivolt meter. I could build one for you; it would end up being about $70 though.

Noblegas said:

I have a couple of 2113 power supplies

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The request was for a controller, not a power supply.

diachi said:

Just to confirm - you are correct - that PSU should work fine with that head.

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I don't know about that. I believe the 2113 are the odd-ball type with 220V input and higher tube voltage. The others are interchangeable, but I'm reasonably certain this one is not.

If this is what you have- Not sure if this is correct one.


Sometimes I get my models of these mixed up.

Also depends on if you are looking for power supply or controller

Disabling interlock and wiring for the light control is easy enough, whether this is right one or not.

Remote panels exist for most of them but usually they are hard to find.

CU-2201 Remote Wiring
The most common minimal wiring would be:

• Light control using pot on power supply (typical default): Pin 12 connected to pin 13, pin 36 connected to pin 37.
• Current control using external 10K ohm pot: Pin 23 connected to CCW terminal of pot, pin 25 via 5K ohm resistor connected to CW terminal of pot, pin 6 connected to wiper of pot, pin 36 connected to pin 37.


Then, I Stole this from Daguin post on PL:

Look here

http://www.repairfaq.org/sam/laserasc.htm#asccu1r

click on "CU-2214 Remote Wiring and Control Panel"

Cyparagon said:

You can build this out of a project box, a connector, a pot, a couple resistors, a switch, and a millivolt meter. I could build one for you; it would end up being about $70 though.


I don't know about that. I believe the 2113 are the odd-ball type with 220V input and higher tube voltage. The others are interchangeable, but I'm reasonably certain this one is not.

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Already sent along a basic pin out that'd at least get it running at idle as well as the complete manual with a complete pin out. Think I sent a link to the Sam's FAQ page with schematics for a basic controller too. He just doesn't feel comfortable enough with electronics to mess with it - fair enough.

2113s are 200-240VAC in only, you are correct, all of the other models (That I'm aware of) are 100-240VAC . 200-240VAC in is fine - he's in England, line voltage is 230V +/- 10V. Not seeing any mention of higher tube voltage from those power supplies anywhere - or anything to indicate that they aren't compatible with that series of heads.

Curtis does already have a power supply - just no controller to get it running. As I said, I explained the pinouts to get it running at idle without current control already and sent along some other resources.

Thank you Diachi, for explaining. Cyparagon, is that including or excluding postage? To clarify what power supply I have. It is a 2110U-SLCBCC and is 100-240V input.

That would normally include postage, but I didn't see until now you're in England. So call it $60 plus whatever postage is - I don't know what the rates are at the moment.

icecruncher said:

If this is what you have- Not sure if this is correct one....Light control using pot on power supply (typical default): Pin 12 connected to pin 13, pin 36 connected to pin 37.

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The 2110 has a 25 pin control connector. Referencing pin 37 means you've probably got the wrong instructions.

diachi said:

all of the other models (That I'm aware of) are 100-240VAC.

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Technically, but it requires a lot of internal re-jumpering things.

diachi said:

Not seeing any mention of higher tube voltage from those power supplies anywhere - or anything to indicate that they aren't compatible with that series of heads.

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I looked around and... I don't either. The 2110 I found listed output voltage of 70-120V, which would not run a 2213 heat which runs about 180V I believe. However, maybe the case is different with higher input voltage. They have voltage doublers on the input though, so I don't think that's the case - they all have a ~300-400V stage as far as I know. The datasheets I find only reference the systems as a pair, and say nothing about cross compatibility.

It isn't intuitive that a power supply made to power a tube at double the voltage and power of the 2210 head could also power the 2210 head, but I suppose it is possible. However, that would be half the voltage it was ostensibly designed to operate at.

I've had a 2213 head for about 10 years now with no power supply for it, but I have yet to try 240V on a power supply input instead. I don't think it'll work, but I'll try.

Cyparagon said:

I've had a 2213 head for about 10 years now with no power supply for it, but I have yet to try 240V on a power supply input instead. I don't think it'll work, but I'll try.

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The 2212 and 2214 run on 100-240 VAC while the 2213 only runs on 200-240 VAC (all jumper/switch selectable).

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Everything I'm seeing says that the 2110 (Or other 211x) power supply will work fine with that head - as long as it's set for 240VAC operation of course. Some old (very old...) posts on alt.lasers seem to suggest the same.

Edit: Which makes sense - you'd think the connectors would be different if the components aren't going to be compatible.

diachi said:

you'd think the connectors would be different if the components aren't going to be compatible.

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db25 is INCREDIBLY common. It's ILDA standard, printer parallel port standard, power supply configuration standard, and certainly hundreds more. A JDSU controller would plug into lots of things I own. It would also blow most of them up.

As for the power/signal connectors to the head, even those aren't a guarantee the laser will work. A SP163 head for example plugs in physically, but the fan remains unpowered.

Cyparagon said:

db25 is INCREDIBLY common. It's ILDA standard, printer parallel port standard, power supply configuration standard, and certainly hundreds more. A JDSU controller would plug into lots of things I own. It would also blow most of them up.

As for the power/signal connectors to the head, even those aren't a guarantee the laser will work. A SP163 head for example plugs in physically, but the fan remains unpowered.

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Didn't know that - so you can plug an SP163 into the round socket on a JDSU PSU? Know they are both round but have never had both at the same time. Saying that - different manufacturers - you'd think one manufacturer would change up the connectors between their own models. I guess at the least they could change the interlock pins so that the interlock never completes if the head and PSU aren't a match. But hey, maybe it was never seen as an issue!

Thank you Cyparagon. Is it possible to find out roughly how much the postage is? Also are you supplying the DB-25 cable or should I get one?

I guess at the least they could change the interlock pins so that the interlock never completes if the head and PSU aren't a match. But hey, maybe it was never seen as an issue!

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That would be useful. I bet it has been an issue in the past. Just not a common one.

UPS is quoting $100. Forget I offered.

edit: USPS is quoting $70

Cyparagon said:

UPS is quoting $100. Forget I offered.

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Are you building your controllers out of lead!?

Oh right ... UPS, not USPS.

Edit: Curtis - I'd offer to do it but it's going to take even longer and be more expensive to ship if I do it. Especially with this upcoming Canada Post strike - just getting the parts I need would probably take 2-4 weeks.