Uniphase 2114P-40MLA & 2214-40MLA Argon Ion Laser

Cyparagon said:

I use a "gold" one that matches the pinout :thinking:

What does the power meter in the head read? I would trust that meter more than a thermal meter.

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Most of the gold PSU's match the pinout on Sam's.
This is the second one I've seen that didn't

Elektrotechniker said:

Nice videos! Btw it's pronounced "Dee aay guin" or something like that

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Maybe seeing the original spelling will help; Gwuyann
Yeah. I didn't really think so

Just don't call me late for diner :wave:

Peace,
dave

I know it is "Da Guin", but for some reason my brain says "Dag uin". Don't worry Dave, I'd only call ya early for dinner =P.

So these supplies have an idle set current inside the actual supply? So when emission is enabled, it wont go any lower than the set idle current; if so this kinda simplifies the design I have for a remote controller for it.

Shame theres only 10-20ma on the +15V rail - that will NOT power an arduino and its backlit LCD, and control the voltages to the laser at the same time. What a shame - I wonder if there is a way to boost the output current of the +15V rail to gain say 200-300ma of current - that way it can drive the extra's I intend to put into my fancy design, along with the laser, without having to resort to an internal battery in the controller.

Yup there is an internal idle set point.

The 15V rail actually only has about 12mA available to it once you deduct the interlock bias currents. I originally designed a remote that used 20mA of the manual's listed 25mA for the current set only to realize that it won't work since there isn't really that much available.

Unfortunately there isn't anything you can really do internally that won't screw things up.

Thats a shame - I just found an LED panel meter in my parts box that draws 80ish ma with 3 segments lit - its a 0-20V unit, so I can eliminate the bottom 100k trimpot, and just feed the light and current signals (via a DPDT switch of course, the other side of which will select one of two leds to indicate whats being monitored) to the displays input, which would give an xx.x readout of both tube I and mw out (10/V and 10mw/V respectively). I'll use this guy for my basic controller until I make the arduino one. I'll simply power the LED panel meter from 4XAA NIMH; which equates to 5V, which is what the meter prefers to run off (even though the little switcher I was using to do measurements and calibrate it, was 5.6V OC, it dropped to 5.01 under load). At 80ma, the batteries should last a long time.