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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Need advice on how to test Liconix HeCd with 4240ps

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Aug 27, 2015
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I acquired, by accident really, a Liconix HeCd laser (I think it is a 4207, but I am not at all sure) with a 4240ps. I also have a Scientech power meter (362). I am going to sound like a total n00b, but I am not sure I know how to test the power on the laser with the power meter. Could someone point me to a how-to on that?

Photos make it look pretty straightforward, but I am a metal-milling-CNC-guy. Other than buying a blue laser a while back for fun, I am completely in the dark in this area. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 





diachi

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Feb 22, 2008
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I acquired, by accident really, a Liconix HeCd laser (I think it is a 4207, but I am not at all sure) with a 4240ps. I also have a Scientech power meter (362). I am going to sound like a total n00b, but I am not sure I know how to test the power on the laser with the power meter. Could someone point me to a how-to on that?

Photos make it look pretty straightforward, but I am a metal-milling-CNC-guy. Other than buying a blue laser a while back for fun, I am completely in the dark in this area. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Set the power meter to the correct range, point the beam at the sensor, read the meter.

Got any pictures of your HeCd? They are great lasers. Make sure you do proper warm up/shut down on it though. They take ~15 minutes to warm up to a proper temperature for lasing and ~15 minutes to cool down properly. Not allowing for a complete cycle can damage the tube.
 
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generally true more of the omnichromes than the liconix lasers. the liconix use indirectly heated cathodes, and don't have a shutdown or standby sequence like the omni sort. but I do agree. rapid starting and shutdown wears on the tube faster. Omni tubes have a shutdown cycle to allow the cadmium to vacate the bore and condense in a proper area before the tube extinguishes to keep it off the optics, but liconix claims it doesn't matter and just turns off immediately and relies on a advanced cold trap design to keep it from condensing on the optical surfaces. (which doesn't work as well as they'd like to claim in my opinion)

Be aware that Liconix lasers tend to all be over pressure or out of alignment by this day and age, so don't be surprised if it lights but doesn't lase. most HeCds don't take kindly to being left sitting and hanging out to dry for years at a time. very high quality 441.6nm dark blue-violet beautiful beams unlike anything you can get any other way though. (like with a diode unless you spend some serious money, and even then its debatable) some even lase in the ultraviolet.

I have two Omnichrome HeCds that I love (a series 56 and a series 74). they're among of my absolute favorites. I've worked on quite a few of them so I'll be happy to help anyway I can. I believe Diachi (above) and a couple other members are pretty knowledgeable on them too.
 
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