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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Interlock key replacement??

Joined
Mar 12, 2012
Messages
195
Points
18
I recently picked up a NEC/Showa GLS 3135 PSU and matching GLG 3135 argon head. It's an OEM only 488/515 setup from the Olympus FV1000 confocal microscope.

Everything was working fine, but the interlock key was snapped off in the lock. I just used whatever was around to twist the cylinder on and off when I used it, but a couple of days ago, I had the genius idea of pulling the key stub out and brazing it to a washer so I could actually use it as a key.

Everyone probably is aware of this already, but I realized far too late that the key was cheap pot metal, and it sort of melted under the torch. Does anyone know (or have any guesses) as to where I could get a replacement key or blanks? I really don't feel like replacing the switch for some reason. I would rather mill a new key (from steel stock this time :mad:) before opening up the PSU. I feel like fitting a new lock would be a headache, might have to ream the panel opening, find out power ratings, etc.

I'll probably end up milling it from scratch, but just thought I'd ask in case anyone knew. Maybe Olympus would be helpful if I called them up? I know Showa doesn't even deal with people outside Japan for their gas lasers, and I believe they officially discontinued the line recently.
 





diachi

0
Joined
Feb 22, 2008
Messages
9,700
Points
113
I'd just replace the whole key switch ... It shouldn't take more than half an hour to do a proper job. Hell, you could replace it with a toggle switch if you wanted. Much easier than finding/making a new key.

If it's anything like the ones I've worked on, you don't need a big current rating either. Usually only a few mA to a few 10s of mA on those wires.
 
Joined
Mar 12, 2012
Messages
195
Points
18
I found the key code completely by accident, popped up in amazon when I was browsing for something else (targeted ads are kinda scary lol).

A lot of the older power supplies use NKK for the key interlocks, the one that fit mine was key code #1201, but yours might be different.

Daichi is right ofc, no reason to spend nearly as much time as I did trying to find the damn things, just replacing it really shouldn't be too hard. But if you're as lazy as me or just don't want to open up stuff with high voltage warning stickers, thats a good place to start.
 




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