qumefox
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Well mine's on the list now too. Just got reminded I needed to do the feedback thing. heh.
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ArcticMyst Security by Avery
If you've been looking for a GreeNe, read this.
- Thread starter aryntha
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Those bare tubes are an amazing deal for $100 if you have a brick to run them off. The big tube in my avatar is the same tube in that auction.
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would you know if the p/s from the MELLES GRIOT 05-LGR-193 works with the bare 192 tube. don't see the 192 in sam's laser faq.
qumefox
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It should if the specs in the auction for the bare tube are correct. I wouldn't be surprised if they weren't the same tubes though.
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my laser arrived in the post... but i'm having a bit of trouble:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110765979883?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
the dc cord was cut from the tube to the transformer - i repaired it. the transformer was labeled for running 115ac, brown and white for voltage (right?) and a green ground. no light when hooked to house (usa) current. time for the multimeter. in the meantime anyone have any hints or suggestions?
this is my first HeNe tube. i've been reading sam's faq - SO much info. takes a bit to digest it all. i'm just not sure why i didn't get lght.
oh...the shutter is open now still no light
edit: i undid my repair on the dc cord to the tube and measured the voltage. multimeter set at 1000v dc and i get readings of 130 -140 there's fluctuation prolly due to the contact points of the meter. i was expecting 2500. something's not right
the transformer - p/s does warm up to about 8 degrees F over ambient while plugged in
http://www.ebay.com/itm/110765979883?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2649
the dc cord was cut from the tube to the transformer - i repaired it. the transformer was labeled for running 115ac, brown and white for voltage (right?) and a green ground. no light when hooked to house (usa) current. time for the multimeter. in the meantime anyone have any hints or suggestions?
this is my first HeNe tube. i've been reading sam's faq - SO much info. takes a bit to digest it all. i'm just not sure why i didn't get lght.
oh...the shutter is open now still no light
edit: i undid my repair on the dc cord to the tube and measured the voltage. multimeter set at 1000v dc and i get readings of 130 -140 there's fluctuation prolly due to the contact points of the meter. i was expecting 2500. something's not right
the transformer - p/s does warm up to about 8 degrees F over ambient while plugged in
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yeah, that's what i was thinking. i didn't see a 192 listed in sam's, figured it was the naked model.
qumefox
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Ok.. for starters.. throw away that two wire cord and get a proper 3 wire grounded plug. Mains driven devices are not to be trifled with in regards to proper wiring. Just cut the end off a PC power cord, if your like most, you probably have a few laying around.
On your laser PS, Hot is brown, neutral is white, green is ground.
On your 3 wire cord, you can have two possible wiring colors used. IEC or US National.
If it's IEC, hot = brown, neutral = blue, ground - green/yellow stripe
If it's US National, Hot will be black, neutral = white, ground = green
Just match up the hot, neutral and ground to their respective colors. and it should work... and for safety's sake.. don't just 'twist the wires together'. At minimum use electrical tape and tape them up. This hobby isn't worth someone getting electrocuted over.
My guess is currently, you have the hot/neutral reversed and/or the PSU has a safety that won't let it operate without a ground.
On your laser PS, Hot is brown, neutral is white, green is ground.
On your 3 wire cord, you can have two possible wiring colors used. IEC or US National.
If it's IEC, hot = brown, neutral = blue, ground - green/yellow stripe
If it's US National, Hot will be black, neutral = white, ground = green
Just match up the hot, neutral and ground to their respective colors. and it should work... and for safety's sake.. don't just 'twist the wires together'. At minimum use electrical tape and tape them up. This hobby isn't worth someone getting electrocuted over.
My guess is currently, you have the hot/neutral reversed and/or the PSU has a safety that won't let it operate without a ground.
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i was thinking that since it's ac the colors didn't matter on the voltage leads to the transformer/ps. i will get a grounded real plug tomorrow to connect to my house current.
thanks bro, i want to see this light sooo bad
sorry for the hijacked thread, but....
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qumefox
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there IS a difference between hot and neutral.. The hot wire is the one that will kill you. Neutral is pretty much the same as ground, but is generally a different circuit than chassis grounds, for safety reasons.
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we seem to be misunderstanding each other. the p/s is 115v ac powered (can be 230 also) with an output to the tube of 2500 vdc. i've connected the input of the p/s to my house current using a plug i scavenged. tried the 2 wires both ways, didn't think it mattered being ac. tomorrow i will buy a 3 prong plug and attach the ground. unless it's the ground i'm stumped
qumefox
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It matters from a safety standpoint
If you get something that happens to have neutral bonded to the chassis.. and you get the wiring backwards and connect the hot to the neutral.. that means you've applied lethal voltage to the chassis of whatever it is.. the extra ground is there to give the energy a path other than through you to ground.. So you trip a breaker when plugging it in instead of frying yourself.
And you've tested psu output with the tube attached? If that's the case, and it's outputting voltage, then hold a piece of paper over the output of the laser and turn off the lights. you should get some kind of noticable glow if it's lit.. If it is, and no green, then you have a bad or misaligned tube. If no plasma glow, then the problem is the psu or your wiring.
If you get something that happens to have neutral bonded to the chassis.. and you get the wiring backwards and connect the hot to the neutral.. that means you've applied lethal voltage to the chassis of whatever it is.. the extra ground is there to give the energy a path other than through you to ground.. So you trip a breaker when plugging it in instead of frying yourself.
And you've tested psu output with the tube attached? If that's the case, and it's outputting voltage, then hold a piece of paper over the output of the laser and turn off the lights. you should get some kind of noticable glow if it's lit.. If it is, and no green, then you have a bad or misaligned tube. If no plasma glow, then the problem is the psu or your wiring.
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Well I bit the bullet....
I got the latest offering for $110.00...
MELLES GRIOT 05-LGR-193-381 Helium Neon Laser model | eBay
The Label on this one says 5mW MAXIMUM with a manufactured
date of 2000...
I hope it arrives safe and unbroken.
Jerry
I got the latest offering for $110.00...
MELLES GRIOT 05-LGR-193-381 Helium Neon Laser model | eBay
The Label on this one says 5mW MAXIMUM with a manufactured
date of 2000...
I hope it arrives safe and unbroken.
Jerry
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i attached a standard 3 prong plug to the p/s. i tried both combinations with the brown and white wires, green always being ground.
after checking the voltage with a newer multimeter with a fresh battery i get 1.8v. the sealed tube emits no light or plasma "glow". i do have a 220vac outlet handy, i may try using it.
i admit i'm really green with gas lasers. i do have some electronic knowledge gained from years of building radio, computers and such, but no "formal" training.
some of the members here prolly have the same tube/ps setup. how did you make your's work?
the ps is
05-LPM-903-065
i have some fee time now gonna look over sam's faq
after checking the voltage with a newer multimeter with a fresh battery i get 1.8v. the sealed tube emits no light or plasma "glow". i do have a 220vac outlet handy, i may try using it.
i admit i'm really green with gas lasers. i do have some electronic knowledge gained from years of building radio, computers and such, but no "formal" training.
some of the members here prolly have the same tube/ps setup. how did you make your's work?
the ps is
05-LPM-903-065
i have some fee time now gonna look over sam's faq
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qumefox
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I know aryntha has some of the MG combos.. Mine I got from the guy happens to be a JDSU one though.
One more thing to try. Look at the output aperture.. WITH IT OFF heh, and make sure you can actually see the OC and that the shutter IS really open. Also, does the tube rattle ANY if you shake it? Does the PSU make ANY noises at all when you first plug it up? Should give a short buzz as the igniter pulses fire.
I'm not sure what's going on here though.. mine I got from the guy was VERY well packed.
And Jerry. These range between 2 and 2.5mW, which is a lot of green from tubes these size. They're definitely new.
One more thing to try. Look at the output aperture.. WITH IT OFF heh, and make sure you can actually see the OC and that the shutter IS really open. Also, does the tube rattle ANY if you shake it? Does the PSU make ANY noises at all when you first plug it up? Should give a short buzz as the igniter pulses fire.
I'm not sure what's going on here though.. mine I got from the guy was VERY well packed.
And Jerry. These range between 2 and 2.5mW, which is a lot of green from tubes these size. They're definitely new.
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not sure what the oc is. i have looked into the beam end to verify the shutter is open. no rattles in the tube. the power supply makes no sound when connected to 120vdc. and the output is only about 1.8v. i'm going to contact the seller, there's a 30 day return, see if he'll swap it out.
i really appreciate your help qumefox, thanks. it's been frustrating. got away from it for an hour and built a 12x 405, it worked at least. ;-)
i really appreciate your help qumefox, thanks. it's been frustrating. got away from it for an hour and built a 12x 405, it worked at least. ;-)
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qumefox
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Ask the seller how he was wiring them to test first. I was hoping aryntha would chime in since i'm pretty sure he has at least one of these and can confirm the wiring.
