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Old 12-14-2009, 01:53 AM #17
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Default Re: Help! What am I???

oh yeah! there's a control board in there that says ALC 68 somethingsomethingsomething...

is the hack going to be on that board? i can try to get some more detailed pics of the PSU if you need, i'll get a better camera on the job ASAP if that's what needs to be done


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Old 12-17-2009, 02:29 PM #18
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Default Re: Help! What am I???

Default
I'd really like to verify that it's not "igniting down the bypass"... If it was doing that, would it still be able to lase?[/QUOTE]


If your lasing, its not going down the bypass.

See that red and black jack there, inside the lid, using a battery powered,ISOLATED DMM , ie one with a plastic case, thats your tube current readout. The I readout jacks are at about 200 Vdc relative to the world, so be carefull. I cant remember the calibration factor, I think its 3 or 4 one tenth ohm resistors in parallel, so either .033 V per amp or .025 V per amp. I need to check that. Or you can count the resistors for me, and read the value off them, they are just under the jacks some place.


read all the ALC stuff in the FAQ, it applies except the cooling is WAY different. I'd keep Imax to 15 amps, and consider 18 amps for less then 30 seconds if you want to run it in bursts.

The limiting Factor in this case is the meditech. Its not as robust as I'd like. 18 amps CW pushes it to its limits, as it was reduced parts count for medical service, ie pulse, cool down, pulse, cool down... Yes, it will pulse for 1 second to say 25-30 amps, but it will NOT do that cw. 15 amps is a good number. I'd get the idle up to 7. At 15 amps if the tube was fresh you'd be in excess of 500 mW, and since you have the long brester stems,compared to the HGM version, you'll get good life.

can you stick a diffraction grating in the beam ?

I have the schematics in PDF, as I said in my PM, I'll next have access to them at 11:30 XMAS eve.

And yes, I have the I pot mod for it, and unlike most ALC mods, it does NOT use the upper current limit. Your setting on medical hard IDLE at 4 amps. We need to get that up.

Cleaning optics is the same as the 60X, read the FAQ. Only odds are you have much more gain, making any alignment loss less traumatic.

One other thing, it is ALC control card clone, both cards, but the main card has a few components changed from the ALC. Please DON'T turn the two pots.
I spent 2 weekends and 100$ in transistors when I tried that years ago. The un modded ALC card has 4 pots.That ought to tell you something....

I may get home this weekend, in which case I can get you the data sooner, but I don't know... Its a gas money and 400 miles on the vehicle thing.

Steve

Last edited by LSRFAQ; 12-17-2009 at 02:56 PM.
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Old 12-17-2009, 03:05 PM #19
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Default Re: Help! What am I???

Quote:
Originally Posted by LSRFAQ View Post
Default
I'd really like to verify that it's not "igniting down the bypass"... If it was doing that, would it still be able to lase?

If your lasing, its not going down the bypass.

See that red and black jack there, inside the lid, using a battery powered,ISOLATED DMM , ie one with a plastic case, thats your tube current readout. The I readout jacks are at about 200 Vdc relative to the world, so be carefull. I cant remember the calibration factor, I think its 3 or 4 one tenth ohm resistors in parallel, so either .033 V per amp or .025 V per amp. I need to check that. Or you can count the resistors for me, and read the value off them, they are just under the jacks some place.


read all the ALC stuff in the FAQ, it applies except the cooling is WAY different. I'd keep Imax to 15 amps, and consider 18 amps for less then 30 seconds if you want to run it in bursts.

The limiting Factor in this case is the meditech. Its not as robust as I'd like. 18 amps CW pushes it to its limits, as it was reduced parts count for medical service, ie pulse, cool down, pulse, cool down... Yes, it will pulse for 1 second to say 25-30 amps, but it will NOT do that cw. 15 amps is a good number. I'd get the idle up to 7. At 15 amps if the tube was fresh you'd be in excess of 500 mW, and since you have the long brester stems,compared to the HGM version, you'll get good life.

can you stick a diffraction grating in the beam ?

I have the schematics in PDF, as I said in my PM, I'll next have access to them at 11:30 XMAS eve.

And yes, I have the I pot mod for it, and unlike most ALC mods, it does NOT use the upper current limit. Your setting on medical hard IDLE at 4 amps. We need to get that up.

Cleaning optics is the same as the 60X, read the FAQ. Only odds are you have much more gain, making any alignment loss less traumatic.

One other thing, it is ALC control card clone, both cards, but the main card has a few components changed from the ALC. Please DON'T turn the two pots.
I spent 2 weekends and 100$ in transistors when I tried that years ago. The un modded ALC card has 4 pots.That ought to tell you something....

I may get home this weekend, in which case I can get you the data sooner, but I don't know... Its a gas money and 400 miles on the vehicle thing.


NOTE normal ALC/HGM Hacks just bypass the feedback input and the tube thus surges up to whatever the max limit is set too, the max limit then becoming the current pot in the hack. This is a bad thing, because you can drive the PSU or tube to destruction. Feedback sensors are cheap, but the guys who publish the "hack" are even cheaper,and dont want to spend a half day adding a OPAMP and a LEM current sensor that costs 25$. If you wanted light mode when hacked, all the parts for the hack are ALREADY in the unit.

The PSUs in the medical systems are designed to be part of a light loop, and with no feedback sensor attached, they want to produce more light, so they slam up to the limit. This is not a bad thing in the hands of a technician servicing the unit, and a simple jumper connector enables this, but for field operations its a easy way to kill your laser.

I'd really like to verify that it's not "igniting down the bypass"... If it was doing that, would it still be able to lase?[/QUOTE]


If your lasing, its not going down the bypass.

See that red and black jack there, inside the lid, using a battery powered,ISOLATED DMM , ie one with a plastic case, thats your tube current readout. The I readout jacks are at about 200 Vdc relative to the world, so be carefull. I cant remember the calibration factor, I think its 3 or 4 one tenth ohm resistors in parallel, so either .033 V per amp or .025 V per amp. I need to check that. Or you can count the resistors for me, and read the value off them, they are just under the jacks some place.


read all the ALC stuff in the FAQ, it applies except the cooling is WAY different. I'd keep Imax to 15 amps, and consider 18 amps for less then 30 seconds if you want to run it in bursts.

The limiting Factor in this case is the meditech. Its not as robust as I'd like. 18 amps CW pushes it to its limits, as it was reduced parts count for medical service, ie pulse, cool down, pulse, cool down... Yes, it will pulse for 1 second to say 25-30 amps, but it will NOT do that cw. 15 amps is a good number. I'd get the idle up to 7. At 15 amps if the tube was fresh you'd be in excess of 500 mW, and since you have the long brester stems,compared to the HGM version, you'll get good life.

can you stick a diffraction grating in the beam ?

I have the schematics in PDF, as I said in my PM, I'll next have access to them at 11:30 XMAS eve.

And yes, I have the I pot mod for it, and unlike most ALC mods, it does NOT use the upper current limit. Your setting on medical hard IDLE at 4 amps. We need to get that up.

Cleaning optics is the same as the 60X, read the FAQ. Only odds are you have much more gain, making any alignment loss less traumatic.

One other thing, it is ALC control card clone, both cards, but the main card has a few components changed from the ALC. Please DON'T turn the two pots.
I spent 2 weekends and 100$ in transistors when I tried that years ago. The un modded ALC card has 4 pots.That ought to tell you something....

I may get home this weekend, in which case I can get you the data sooner, but I don't know... Its a gas money and 400 miles on the vehicle thing.

NOTE normal ALC/HGM Hacks just bypass the feedback input and the tube thus surges up to whatever the max limit is set too, the max limit then becoming the current pot in the hack. This is a bad thing, because you can drive the PSU or tube to destruction. Feedback sensors are cheap, but the guys who publish the "hack" are even cheaper,and dont want to spend a half day adding a OPAMP and a LEM current sensor that costs 25$. If you wanted light mode when hacked, all the parts for the hack are ALREADY in the unit.

The PSUs in the medical systems are designed to be part of a light loop, and with no feedback sensor attached, they want to produce more light, so they slam up to the limit. This is not a bad thing in the hands of a technician servicing the unit, and a simple jumper connector enables this, but for field operations its a easy way to kill your laser.

I'd really like to verify that it's not "igniting down the bypass"... If it was doing that, would it still be able to lase?[/QUOTE]


If your lasing, its not going down the bypass.

See that red and black jack there, inside the lid, using a battery powered,ISOLATED DMM , ie one with a plastic case, thats your tube current readout. The I readout jacks are at about 200 Vdc relative to the world, so be carefull. I cant remember the calibration factor, I think its 3 or 4 one tenth ohm resistors in parallel, so either .033 V per amp or .025 V per amp. I need to check that. Or you can count the resistors for me, and read the value off them, they are just under the jacks some place.


read all the ALC stuff in the FAQ, it applies except the cooling is WAY different. I'd keep Imax to 15 amps, and consider 18 amps for less then 30 seconds if you want to run it in bursts.

The limiting Factor in this case is the meditech. Its not as robust as I'd like. 18 amps CW pushes it to its limits, as it was reduced parts count for medical service, ie pulse, cool down, pulse, cool down... Yes, it will pulse for 1 second to say 25-30 amps, but it will NOT do that cw. 15 amps is a good number. I'd get the idle up to 7. At 15 amps if the tube was fresh you'd be in excess of 500 mW, and since you have the long brester stems,compared to the HGM version, you'll get good life.

can you stick a diffraction grating in the beam ?

I have the schematics in PDF, as I said in my PM, I'll next have access to them at 11:30 XMAS eve.

And yes, I have the I pot mod for it, and unlike most ALC mods, it does NOT use the upper current limit. Your setting on medical hard IDLE at 4 amps. We need to get that up.

Cleaning optics is the same as the 60X, read the FAQ. Only odds are you have much more gain, making any alignment loss less traumatic.

One other thing, it is ALC control card clone, both cards, but the main card has a few components changed from the ALC. Please DON'T turn the two pots.
I spent 2 weekends and 100$ in transistors when I tried that years ago. The un modded ALC card has 4 pots.That ought to tell you something....

I may get home this weekend, in which case I can get you the data sooner, but I don't know... Its a gas money and 400 miles on the vehicle thing.

NOTE normal ALC/HGM Hacks just bypass the feedback input and the tube thus surges up to whatever the max limit is set too, the max limit then becoming the current pot in the hack. This is a bad thing, because you can drive the PSU or tube to destruction. Feedback sensors are cheap, but the guys who publish the "hack" are even cheaper,and dont want to spend a half day adding a OPAMP and a LEM current sensor that costs 25$. If you wanted light mode when hacked, all the parts for the hack are ALREADY in the unit.

The PSUs in the medical systems are designed to be part of a light loop, and with no feedback sensor attached, they want to produce more light, so they slam up to the limit. This is not a bad thing in the hands of a technician servicing the unit, and a simple jumper connector enables this, but for field operations its a easy way to kill your laser.

The Meditech is already modded for current at the factory, I just cant remember which connector pin is which, I need my schematics and mod notes on how to add the potentiometer to the front panel. Some of the pins on the connector, if misused, result in the unit going boom!, so lets not play musical wires!

Steve[/QUOTE]

Last edited by LSRFAQ; 12-17-2009 at 03:13 PM.
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