Super Dorcy Jr. Heatsink

Just make a heatsink for the beloved Dorcy Jr. enjoy.













I can run the Open Can at 500mA for 4-5 minutes before the Laser becomes a little warm.

good lord, that really is a super heatsink, now all it needs is a big red S on it

How tight is the module fitment to the heatsink? i know its held in with a set screw, but how close is the fit, obviously its not an interference fit or it wouldn't need the set screw right?

Liberty1992 said:

good lord, that really is a super heatsink, now all it needs is a big red S on it

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You can put a blu-ray diode as well, the Flexdrive will take care of it.

CoZZm0_AU said:

How tight is the module fitment to the heatsink? i know its held in with a set screw, but how close is the fit, obviously its not an interference fit or it wouldn't need the set screw right?

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The set screw allows you to take out the module, it can be press-fit as well but it would be very hard to take out the module.

Hehe, just read your PM..

I haven't seen yours before, but i have seen heatsinks like that before... Look..


This is version 1... It's what i have in my personal Dorcy lasers..

DarkHorse made them for me, and i did actually want to ask him to extend them down into the battery tube, just like you did, but i didn't want to drive him crazy with the details..  ;D


This heatsink only has room for my driver inside, or a cut down FlexDrive, so in the future i will use it for blu rays only, because i don't like drivers on wires..

I had an open can in one of these, and it was amazingly stable. It takes almost an hour just to reach body temp... And not just from the extra mass, but mostly because of the excellent heatsink to host contact at the step and at the massive bottom of the heatsink. I put some thermal paste on the step, and it works like a charm....



Seems like we have the similar ideas too..

And this is the second version. Here i asked DarkHorse to incorporate some of his design into the heatsinks (the top step), and to make a hole big enough for the FlexDrive, because the first could only accomodate my driver or a shaven down FlexDrive.

I was worried that the enlarged hole would take too much mass away from it, but he found a nice way around it. The end result was a heatsink with just as much mass as the first one, but enough room to solder a FlexDrive to the diode directly.

It's meant for an open can, but i have one of my 4x's in one of these at the moment, set to 160mA. I just started running it continuously along with one in a much larger heatsink, and it doesn't warm up much more than the other one! This one was running since this morning and i have yet to see it go above 27°C.


No matter how big you make the heatsink, the host is always the largest mass, so i always try to achieve the best possible contact between them, and the results are great.


I like the way you incorporate the driver room, btw. The hole is just big enough for the driver and tight enough to keep it straight without any additional support, and without the risk of any shorts.. You have some good ideas..


Anyway, i just thought it was funny when you sent me the link in the PM....

Hey, Monk..

You said you used Sure modules, right? What diameter hole do you have to make for them? Do they have large tolerances?

IgorT said:

Hey, Monk..

You said you used Sure modules, right? What diameter hole do you have to make for them? Do they have large tolerances?

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Yup, the Sure module is measured 12.00mm and up to 12.03mm. I used 15/32" (11.9mm) drill bit and enlarged the hole to 12.00mm using a boring bar. If you can find a 12mm drill bit that should be good, but drill bit doesn't produce a very round hole.

i found a 12mm drill bit on ebay and bought it up a while back but really its not good for perfect circles like you said

Oh, i know.. Drills make horrible shape holes!

Chucking reamer is the tool used to make an exact round hole.

http://www.bibbtool.com/yankee-production-length-straight-flute-12mm-chucking-reamer-p-3477.html

That yankee drill looks like it is even more prone than a normal drill bit to becoming a rotor and creating non-circular holes

Zom-B said:

That yankee drill looks like it is even more prone than  a normal drill bit to becoming a rotor and creating non-circular holes

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reaming generally produces hole geometry and finish that is as close to theoretical perfection as possible.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Reamer