Hey All,

Hope you guys like this one.


Well here is another mod i did not to long ago.

I wanted to make my C6 host a Little Different then Everyone else's.

This was my Original C6 that i bought from Jay God 2 years ago. Thats to show you how high quality his kits are.

Here where i got the kit from:
FS: 18650 Build Kit! Easy Assembly! 445nm, Blu-ray, or Red...



Its quit a Simple Idea once you break it down.

Anyway, I would Like to Introduce lazeerer's C6:



Pictures:































Here is How I did It:



From Left to Right:
-Is the Focus adapter
-Then the New Head Body
-Then if you Notice this use to be the Retaining ring of the C6 that held your heatsink on.
-Machined Piece to hold the body of the head on. (Press Fit)
-Shaved down Pill
-C6 body. I had to shave the threads down where the pill would screw in. If you look closely you can see it.


So I shaved the Pill down and the threads on the Host. I did this so it can give me enough space for a lip. See next pic....


See the Lip on the new machined piece.? That holds it center and from not sliding out.


Then I took the new machined piece and slide it threw the retaining ring of the original light.


Surprisingly it threads perfect to the body of the host.


I hallowed it out to hold the driver etc since now the pill is to small to hold anything but a blank board.


I drilled the head so its a press fit/ loose tight fit over the new piece so i can add a little glue to hold it on or better yet thermal adhesive.


Sliding it on.


Now its in place...


Module hole was a Press fit. I used a 11.8mm Bit. Its a Tight Press fit. Usually i use 11.9mm.....


Done. Everything is Nice and Center.


Thats pretty much it. I wanted something different and i think it came out great. A one of a Kind C6.

I plain on making another one. Exact same Head but this time remove the retaining ring and flatten out the threads on the body and having it press fit into the body. THis way the center is not too long. THough i kinda like it. I might even do it to this one and not even bother making a new one.

Also its not Polished yet. Thats just buffing.

Total project time. ~4 hours.

The New Heads weight is 81 grams.
A Regular C6 aluminum Heatsink weights ~20 grams.


Now what to put in it.??????? Help Needed.


Hope you guys liked it.






For Looking.!!!

Nice work and very creative.
It reminds me of the RPLs.

Sweet. Finally a C6 with some heatsinking ability.

THanks. I was THinking of an RPL when i was making it and was going to bring the fins all the way up but i stopped. RPL's are one of my favor company laser hosts.

Iam Sitting here right now tempting to put a 445nm build in it just to see how it performs.

that is ridiculously good! great job

The nicest c6 I have seen.
If you polish it , it will almost be to awesome!
Very nice indeed.

Wow nice job man!

Way to think outside the box...

I love your polishing skills too!

Very good build. That is a good heatsinking for the C6

Thanks Guys. We will see how it performs shortly.

LPM test.

Currant-1.6A
Lens- 3 element
Diode- M140
Driver- is X-Boost
Cell - Panosonic 3100mah at 4.06v charged

Mother of al c6 that thing is awesome will hit 2W with a G lens! Great build! I wish i had a lathe

Greetings,,

Really nice! The heatsink looks really good and must also be very effective....nice output with a 3 element too!

I really like how stable the power is in that video!

Not only good heatsinking, but a great boost driver...

Did you need to heatsink the driver at that current?

And the big question is, will you be selling your X-Boost drivers at some future time?!

Feels good to hear those type of expresions from People.

Yes Indeed it is and judging by the video it seems to be well performing.

Yes It is a Nice Slow drop over the 5 minutes. Its exactly what we want to see. The Heatsink was Very Hot at the End of the Video to the touch. This means that it is being very effected bring all the heat away from the diode. My Room temp was also at 23C.

At this Currant No I dint need to heatsink the driver. Though i did anyway as it does get hot but not hot enough to put it into any thermal protection. You will be fine with no heatsink at 1.6A <2 minute run times all day long."

I forgot to post pictures of the inside build.

Here they are.....


Pictures:



Here is the insides.
THe X-Boost on the Left.
The X-Blank in the Middle "It is a Blank Board that i made so there is no need to desolder stock drivers anymore to have a blank board" This one is 16.8mm and Pops right into a C6 pill perfect with the brass ring and solder it to the brass ring for your negative input feed..

On the Right you can see the bottom side of the X-Blank where you have the + contact. I added a Brass + terminal to add quality to the build and give it a raise off the board for better contact with no button top cells.

The X- Blank boards Have solder points to solder your leads to on top to your driver. If you look at the center picutre You can see there is 3.
One Marked V- which is your negative to the driver.
Then two that are Marked V+. You ask why 2.? Because Some People Like to Thermal Paste there drivers down on the Blank Boards on small builds as there is no room to put them anywhere else. I found alot of times Your + contact that would run from the blank board to your driver would be in the center. This makes it very hard to stick your driver on the blank board since you have the wire right in the center. Well what i did was I added 2 + tabs for your driver One in the center and one off the side and you can choose which one you want to use. If you dont plain on sticking your driver to the blank board you can just use the center one but if you do plain on stick your driver to the bottom blank board then you would choose the second one i added that is off to the side so now there is no wire dead center and will be very easy to mount and not have the wires in your way. "You will see examples when i post about them at a later time."

Also If you notice there is No Negative solder points on the bottom of the Blank board. You ask why.? Well I decided to put the negative input solder tabs on the top side so it gives you a Nice Clean Look on the bottom of the board.

If you look at the Right f the Blank board in the Pill, you can see how nice and Clean everything looks.

If i put the Negative input solder tabs on the bottom on either side of the Positive center pad you would have exposed solder and it does not look as clean of a Job IMO. If you ever looked at the insides of an Expensive light there is Never any exposed Solder. Well Since i like to have and sell high quality stuff, i incorporated it into my X - Line of drivers and Made the X- Blank Board.

These Will e for sale very soon. I will have them in many different sizes to fit in all your Host Pills. Some Sizes off the top of my head will be:

15mm
16.8mm "C6 size pill"
17mm
20mm
21mm
22mm

Ill have more sizes then that but those will probably be the most popular for you all.
They will sell from $1.50 - $2 Each going to the Larger size boards.

Ill Open a thread or a Post on these shortly. Though the ones for sale will not have the brass center contact. You will need to add that yourself. There will Be a center round contact pad.


Closer look. If you notice on the center board there is No Negative input tabs to solder to your brass ring because i messed up on these boards and forgot to select them when i was making the Gerber files. But the New ones that are on the way Will have the pads.. Again I will show better examples when i post about them specifically. I just know alot of you guys are going to have questions on the Blanks and trying to answers as much as i can for you all.


I mounted the X-Boost into the New Pill and ran wires Out for the Diode. You can see the NICE BEEFY POT on this Driver that i added. Originally i w drilled it out to fit the Round X-Boost 17mm board but the round one is not ADJ and I wanted to Thermal Paste it to the Pill for best heat transfer and Not have to worry about taking it apart if i want to change the build out in the future. SO I went with the ADJ One and I can just change the currant if needed.



THe Order of everything going in. I was Actually able to use the Full 12mmx30mm module. This Helped big time bring the heat of the diode down the entire heatsink then just the head.


Here you can see the Inside of the Body of the head. Top Half or the First 25mm is solid and the Rest is Drill out to pop into the new pill. So the Top 70% of the Head is to keep the diode cool and the bottom 30% where it slides into is to keep the driver cool.


So I pushed everything together and was Done.

I got to say iam pretty impressed how this Guy performs. This was Just a Temporary build to see how it performs so again Iam very happy with the results.



For Looking.!!!

Excellent pictures. The work is well done !!

Very nice...

I like the X-blank battery contact boards too.

Mostly. I like that pot on your X-Boost driver. Hope to see those available soon.

From your video, I can see that the driver works very well...

All I can say

i second that emotion n2stuff!
angelos you constantly amaze us neophytes

You make me sick. Nice Work I like it.

Lazeerer... this is just cruel, and unusual. You realize that right?

Here I am, 100% bored with c6 lasers, and you come, and build this thing!

Truly inspired work.

You just have to keep outdoing yourself, don't you? . +1 (again)

Do I even need to say I'm jealous? Or is that kinda a universal thing?

^ Its pretty much a given right now, it looks amazing

I don't even have a c6 host and I am sick of seeing them too. But Angleos makes me want one. I am still amazed every time I look at it