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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Modifigng the Gearbest Skyray 4000lm

Joined
Dec 12, 2012
Messages
854
Points
63
I just posted my review of this flashlight here, and I also wanted to show how I modified it.

So I started by taking the aluminum reflector out to find this:


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So to augment the heatsinking I took a heatsink from a Phat light-54 and cut the fins off, drilled holes and cut off the corners. I then heatsinked it to the back of the LED's


http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/M..._215034_zps7y4x6r3a.jpg.html?sort=3&o=10[/IMG






Initial run time (until heatsink reached 115 degrees Fahrenheit):
20s on High
45s on medium


Final run time:
90s on High
240s on Medium

And now I can actually use this light without it overheating the LED's:D
 
Last edited:





Joined
Feb 5, 2009
Messages
198
Points
18
I think its a lost cause on this light, initially I thought the walls thick enough to build an aluminum slug that contacts the body but by the looks of it is way too thin

Heatsinks work because air is flowing around them. Still air is a terrible conductor, any thermos will tell you. Installing a block there will help delay the inevitable, but it won't be able to dissipate it. It just hoards heat until the temperature is identical with that of the LED slug, which the additional thermal mass then delays the LED slug cooling. This might actually do more harm than good, but kudos to you in keeping that optimistism lit
 
Last edited:

Arcahn

0
Joined
Sep 25, 2015
Messages
47
Points
0
Expanding on that point, would it be possible to perforate the body with some small holes to allow air movement? I know compromising the integrity of a somewhat watertight electronics enclosure (read: Host) is not a great idea, but if air needs to move it needs to move. I'm asking for my benefit as well as I wonder how a still air problem like this could be approached. Thanks!
 




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