lazeerer
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Hi All,
Today i Bring to you a Mod that i did to my Wicked Lasers Arctic Spyder III G2.
The mod increased my power of My Arctic G2 From 758mW to NOW an Awesome 1138mW wail still having the Smartswitch Features and using the stock lens that comes with the Arctic.:wave: So in other words the laser does not loose any of its quality and Features.
So its not using a 405-G-1 lens to accomplice this.
I have yet to test it with a G1 lens to see what its going to put out but iam Guessing ~1.3W. (Just a Guess.)
I was thinking why are the arctic only putting out ~750mW when it was designed for 1Watt. I was also certain that they would not have redesign the whole driver to put out less since most of the Arctics shipped out are ~750mW now. So i know it would of either been a pot to turn or changing a resistor after looking at the Driver in them.
So i decided to take the Arctic Apart.
I was a little Unsure i wanted to do this but i gather enough thoughts in my head that i just did.:eg:
After taking it apart and pulling the driver board out as far as i could before i riped any wires apart i was able to look at most of the board.
The bottom half of the board that is closest to the battery/tail cap end is where the Smart switch Components are on the driver. The Upper Portion of the driver that is closes to the Laser diode are the components to drive the Laser diode.
After examining it a little further i seen that the IC was Not Visible as it was Hetsinked and the heatsink was covering the IC. There where 2 Pots right off the side of it including a couple of Resistors and a few other parts further in that i was not able to see exactly but seemed like some capacitors and more resistors...
So i disconnected the diode by Desoldering the the leads from the driver board to the LD and hooked up my Test Load to the Arctic Driver.
I proceeded to go through the Smart Switch Code to turn the laser ON. Once the laser was on i switched over to low mode then to High. In my Surprise the Arctic was set to 740mA Stable.:yabbmad:
So after looking closely again i then New that those pots are the adjustable pots to set the currant to the Laser diode.
So i proceeded by Slowly turning 1 pot at a time. After turning both pots Extremely Carefully i was able to get a Max Setting of 968mA.:wave::drool:
I was so happy to see that its as easy as turning the pots to adjust the currant for a higher output. However that is the easy part. "Taking the laser apart is Extremely difficult to do without damaging anything. Especial twisting the diode pins." Witch will happen 9/10 times as it was not meant to take apart. i got lucky and the pins just slight bent.
The Driver Maxed out at 968mA so i turned the pots down alittle to 960mA and left it there. I then put my finger above the Heatsink witch was on the IC on the driver and it was barely warm with the New Mod. I did not notice a difference in heat when the driver was set to 740mA or 960mA. At 960mA the Driver was Rock solid there +/- 2mA and did not move over a 5 minute run test.IIRC there where 5 pins visible on one side of the IC so iam guessing it was a 10 pin IC.
There was also those 2 resistors that i mentioned before that iam also guessing are the 2 sensing resistors for the IC for the Pots. Not Sure.:thinking:
So after further testing running it on my test load for 10 minute duty cycle and the IC with the Heatsink barely got warm to the touch i feel that it is safe to say that I feel comfortable leaving the Driver at 960mA.
So i decide to change out the A130 diode that was in there and put in a fresh A140 diode. witch to my surprise gave even a more boost in power.
The A130 was putting out 1008mW.
The A140 is putting out 1138mW.:wave:
So Now i have a 1138mW Arctic with all the Features that came with the G2 still working as stock.
I could not be More Happier Right now that i did this. It has now made me like the Arctic so much more.
Whats the point of posting this if i dont show how i did it.
But before i go on:
Please be advised that if you open your laser it will void its warranty, If not careful when unscrewing the heatsink you will twist the pins and possible damage your diode, You could also rip the connections off the driver board, when pulling the driver board out to adjust the pots you could rip a wire off etc.
My point is that I will not be held responsible for any of your actions that you do to YOUR laser Yourself. You will be held responsible for all actions.
The Skill level to do this is 4 out of 5 stars. Adjusting the pots are the easy part. All the other stuff is extremely difficult without causing damage. If you are not very good with electronics and building laser I HIGHLY SUGGEST YOU DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS. You will most likely BREAK YOUR LASER or something and not have a working laser anymore. SO for the last time i will not be liable.
Pictures:
Unscrew the Cap.
Unscrew the Lens Heatsink by sticking something in the 2 holes. However be careful that the bottom Diode heatsink does not spin also.
Now stick something that will fit in both holes and turn. This is the Heatsink that is connect to the diode. But turning this You will Most Likely Twist the Pins of the Diode and Break it. You have to be willing to do this and no the Risk that if it does damage you dont mind replacing the diode. This is your own decision. I will be not held Responsible if it does damage anything.
It will look like this when you pull it out.
I then desoldered the Wires that where going to the diode from the driver and put in place some of Flaminpyro wire that is very flexible and will not bend the pins of the diode when you go to screw the heatsink back in. I also made them about twice as long.
Then i slowly pulled the driver out. There is alot of wire tangled up in there and took about 30 minutes to wiggle it out enough to view and work on.
Those 2 Pots you see are the Adjustable pots. The IC is covers by the Gray aluminum Heatsink.
Here is a Picture of the Driver being Maxed out. I turned it down to 960mA but forgot to take a pictures.
Now i Wanted to remove the A130 Diode in there and replace it with an A140. So i had to remove the Lens. You will need to chip the Glue round the Lens to take it out.
You will have this.
For those that want to see the Lens. It looks like the Olike Lens.
I pushed the diode out with a piece of antenna to fit around the diode can but small enough to fit around the hole that the diode can fits in the heatsink.
I then Repressed the New A140 in. Then Re assembled the Lens.
Then i pushed the driver back in all the way.
I rubbed the 2 leads going from the driver to the diode together to short out any capacitor then soldered the wires to the diode.
Another View.
Then Check to see everything was working. Good to go.
No it was time to Refocus the lens correctly. This took some time . About 1 Hour to get it done Perfect.
Now get some Arctic silver or any thermal paste/compound you like and apply it to the Heatsink itself and the Arctic Wall threads. Shown in the next 2 Pictures.
Diode Heatsink.
Arctic Walls. I also tried to clean out the old stuff as best as i could.
Here shows the Order of how the parts go back together.
Before putting the Heatsink in i Pre twisted the wires in the other direction so when iam turning it in, it will UN twist.
Now that you have everything screwed back together your Are DONE.:wave:
New Arctic G2 LPM Reading: (1138mW)
Old Arctic G2 LPM Reading: (758mW):tsk:
The Final Tweaking.NEW LPM 1275mW:drool:
Here's a link to My old Arctic Review:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f52/r...der-s3-arctic-lots-pictures-videos-58522.html
Final Thoughts:
Iam So Happy with the Arctic Now. It Really has made it complete in my eyes. I personal Like the Arctic. Its a Personal Preference. I have not had any problems with my Arctic. The only thing was missing was the power and i solved that.
The Host does get Warmer but not much more then when it was running t 758mW. I have ran this laser for 10 minutes on with no Problem and the host was Warm but no where near Hot or danger to the diode.
One thing i must say though is the battery life is less then before obviously. You real can tell a difference with the Sanyo cell that came with my arctic.
I recommend you get some of LarryDFW 2600mah Sanyo cells like i did a wail back or get some of the 2600mah AW 18650 cells witch also fits in the Arctic.
Those cells will give you a longer run time then the one that comes with the arctic. I dont know the exact Runtime. But there is a difference.
That is the only Thing. But i can live with that.
:thanks: For Looking.!!!
As Always Keep on Lasing...
Today i Bring to you a Mod that i did to my Wicked Lasers Arctic Spyder III G2.
The mod increased my power of My Arctic G2 From 758mW to NOW an Awesome 1138mW wail still having the Smartswitch Features and using the stock lens that comes with the Arctic.:wave: So in other words the laser does not loose any of its quality and Features.
So its not using a 405-G-1 lens to accomplice this.
I have yet to test it with a G1 lens to see what its going to put out but iam Guessing ~1.3W. (Just a Guess.)I was thinking why are the arctic only putting out ~750mW when it was designed for 1Watt. I was also certain that they would not have redesign the whole driver to put out less since most of the Arctics shipped out are ~750mW now. So i know it would of either been a pot to turn or changing a resistor after looking at the Driver in them.
So i decided to take the Arctic Apart.
I was a little Unsure i wanted to do this but i gather enough thoughts in my head that i just did.:eg:After taking it apart and pulling the driver board out as far as i could before i riped any wires apart i was able to look at most of the board.
The bottom half of the board that is closest to the battery/tail cap end is where the Smart switch Components are on the driver. The Upper Portion of the driver that is closes to the Laser diode are the components to drive the Laser diode.
After examining it a little further i seen that the IC was Not Visible as it was Hetsinked and the heatsink was covering the IC. There where 2 Pots right off the side of it including a couple of Resistors and a few other parts further in that i was not able to see exactly but seemed like some capacitors and more resistors...
So i disconnected the diode by Desoldering the the leads from the driver board to the LD and hooked up my Test Load to the Arctic Driver.
I proceeded to go through the Smart Switch Code to turn the laser ON. Once the laser was on i switched over to low mode then to High. In my Surprise the Arctic was set to 740mA Stable.:yabbmad:
So after looking closely again i then New that those pots are the adjustable pots to set the currant to the Laser diode.
So i proceeded by Slowly turning 1 pot at a time. After turning both pots Extremely Carefully i was able to get a Max Setting of 968mA.:wave::drool:
I was so happy to see that its as easy as turning the pots to adjust the currant for a higher output. However that is the easy part. "Taking the laser apart is Extremely difficult to do without damaging anything. Especial twisting the diode pins." Witch will happen 9/10 times as it was not meant to take apart. i got lucky and the pins just slight bent.
The Driver Maxed out at 968mA so i turned the pots down alittle to 960mA and left it there. I then put my finger above the Heatsink witch was on the IC on the driver and it was barely warm with the New Mod. I did not notice a difference in heat when the driver was set to 740mA or 960mA. At 960mA the Driver was Rock solid there +/- 2mA and did not move over a 5 minute run test.IIRC there where 5 pins visible on one side of the IC so iam guessing it was a 10 pin IC.
There was also those 2 resistors that i mentioned before that iam also guessing are the 2 sensing resistors for the IC for the Pots. Not Sure.:thinking:
So after further testing running it on my test load for 10 minute duty cycle and the IC with the Heatsink barely got warm to the touch i feel that it is safe to say that I feel comfortable leaving the Driver at 960mA.
So i decide to change out the A130 diode that was in there and put in a fresh A140 diode. witch to my surprise gave even a more boost in power.
The A130 was putting out 1008mW.
The A140 is putting out 1138mW.:wave:
So Now i have a 1138mW Arctic with all the Features that came with the G2 still working as stock.
I could not be More Happier Right now that i did this. It has now made me like the Arctic so much more.
Whats the point of posting this if i dont show how i did it.
But before i go on:
Please be advised that if you open your laser it will void its warranty, If not careful when unscrewing the heatsink you will twist the pins and possible damage your diode, You could also rip the connections off the driver board, when pulling the driver board out to adjust the pots you could rip a wire off etc.
My point is that I will not be held responsible for any of your actions that you do to YOUR laser Yourself. You will be held responsible for all actions.
The Skill level to do this is 4 out of 5 stars. Adjusting the pots are the easy part. All the other stuff is extremely difficult without causing damage. If you are not very good with electronics and building laser I HIGHLY SUGGEST YOU DO NOT ATTEMPT THIS. You will most likely BREAK YOUR LASER or something and not have a working laser anymore. SO for the last time i will not be liable.
Pictures:
Unscrew the Cap.
Unscrew the Lens Heatsink by sticking something in the 2 holes. However be careful that the bottom Diode heatsink does not spin also.
Now stick something that will fit in both holes and turn. This is the Heatsink that is connect to the diode. But turning this You will Most Likely Twist the Pins of the Diode and Break it. You have to be willing to do this and no the Risk that if it does damage you dont mind replacing the diode. This is your own decision. I will be not held Responsible if it does damage anything.
It will look like this when you pull it out.
I then desoldered the Wires that where going to the diode from the driver and put in place some of Flaminpyro wire that is very flexible and will not bend the pins of the diode when you go to screw the heatsink back in. I also made them about twice as long.
Then i slowly pulled the driver out. There is alot of wire tangled up in there and took about 30 minutes to wiggle it out enough to view and work on.
Those 2 Pots you see are the Adjustable pots. The IC is covers by the Gray aluminum Heatsink.
Here is a Picture of the Driver being Maxed out. I turned it down to 960mA but forgot to take a pictures.
Now i Wanted to remove the A130 Diode in there and replace it with an A140. So i had to remove the Lens. You will need to chip the Glue round the Lens to take it out.
You will have this.
For those that want to see the Lens. It looks like the Olike Lens.
I pushed the diode out with a piece of antenna to fit around the diode can but small enough to fit around the hole that the diode can fits in the heatsink.
I then Repressed the New A140 in. Then Re assembled the Lens.
Then i pushed the driver back in all the way.
I rubbed the 2 leads going from the driver to the diode together to short out any capacitor then soldered the wires to the diode.
Another View.
Then Check to see everything was working. Good to go.
No it was time to Refocus the lens correctly. This took some time . About 1 Hour to get it done Perfect.
Now get some Arctic silver or any thermal paste/compound you like and apply it to the Heatsink itself and the Arctic Wall threads. Shown in the next 2 Pictures.
Diode Heatsink.
Arctic Walls. I also tried to clean out the old stuff as best as i could.
Here shows the Order of how the parts go back together.
Before putting the Heatsink in i Pre twisted the wires in the other direction so when iam turning it in, it will UN twist.
Now that you have everything screwed back together your Are DONE.:wave:
New Arctic G2 LPM Reading: (1138mW)
Old Arctic G2 LPM Reading: (758mW):tsk:
The Final Tweaking.NEW LPM 1275mW:drool:
Here's a link to My old Arctic Review:
http://laserpointerforums.com/f52/r...der-s3-arctic-lots-pictures-videos-58522.html
Final Thoughts:
Iam So Happy with the Arctic Now. It Really has made it complete in my eyes. I personal Like the Arctic. Its a Personal Preference. I have not had any problems with my Arctic. The only thing was missing was the power and i solved that.
The Host does get Warmer but not much more then when it was running t 758mW. I have ran this laser for 10 minutes on with no Problem and the host was Warm but no where near Hot or danger to the diode.
One thing i must say though is the battery life is less then before obviously. You real can tell a difference with the Sanyo cell that came with my arctic.
I recommend you get some of LarryDFW 2600mah Sanyo cells like i did a wail back or get some of the 2600mah AW 18650 cells witch also fits in the Arctic.
Those cells will give you a longer run time then the one that comes with the arctic. I dont know the exact Runtime. But there is a difference.
That is the only Thing. But i can live with that.
:thanks: For Looking.!!!
As Always Keep on Lasing...
Last edited:
