Modding an Aries 75 into a 445 1+watt Beastie

hakzaw1 · Sep 3, 2010

I would like to put a 445 nm w/18650 into this Aries 75.

I cant seem to get the pill with driver and switch to do more than move about half an inch back and forth--so I know its not threaded. anybody ever tear one of these down completely?? I would like to re-use the switch and the safety lock in the tail, so I dont want to beat the pill out.

any ideas for making the module to slip into it??

the keys came with it but the lock for the circular key did not- it was removed by someone who prolly tried to fix it. lots of room in there.

anybody?? ideas?? suggestions??

If more photos will help you to help me just let me know

DTR · Sep 3, 2010

Nice looking host. Can you screw the pill any amount or does it just go up and down in the tube?

Definitely looks roomy. How big is the battery compartment?

hakzaw1 · Sep 3, 2010

I had to add this post in order to add more photos.

it did use two c cells before so a sleeve can be made to allow the thinner 18650 fit tight. there is almost enough room in there to slip my ehgemus 445 inside and still have room for a cell phone.

my first problem is getting the pill out

RA_pierce · Sep 3, 2010

Try unscrewing the head.

The module on the new PGL-III-Cs (18650) can be removed from the front once the head is removed.

hakzaw1 · Sep 3, 2010

DTR said:
Nice looking host. Can you screw the pill any amount or does it just go up and down in the tube?

Definitely looks roomy. How big is the battery compartment?

Very roomy-- batt space holds two c cells

lots of unused room between the ir filter( it is glued on a threaded disc) and the shutter too.

the pill is white plastic and it slides easily but less than a half inch,

its a smooth surface around the pill --no threads there. I held the blue switch in while trying to get the pill out so that is not the problem. I tried to put a little force on it with a wooden dowell but no luck

I also tried real hard to take the body apart and if it is threaded then it surley has thread lock compound on it!! cause its not budging

hakzaw1 · Sep 3, 2010

thanks RA i tried and it does look like it should come apart but short of using brute force it will not unscrew

I put rubber bands on both parts and use as much force as I could muster.

I will try to seep a little liquid wrench down into where I think the threads are.

i dont think they ever wanted anyone to take it apart.

Gryphon · Sep 3, 2010

I took apart an Aries before and just like RA said, the finned head can be unscrewed from the battery tube, it will take some
elbow grease though. I used two of those rubber band like wrenches so as not to mess up the finish. After that the driver/switch
and plastic mount for the spring battery contact just slid out the top of the battery tube.

RA_pierce · Sep 3, 2010

Yes, lubricating the threads may help a little.
If there is thread lock, a strong solvent might be able to break it down.

hakzaw1 · Sep 3, 2010

thanks guys the help is much appreciated--- i will let you know my progress.

maybe between some solvent and perhaps another set of hands I can unscrew it.

ps to RA- I got a chance to reunite mrwilling with his first (and last) custom pen style host while at SELEM in NC( the one I got from you) It was like papa seeing his long lost son. Said he put like 7 hours into making it.

hakzaw1 · Sep 3, 2010

Gryphon said:
I took apart an Aries before and just like RA said, the finned head can be unscrewed from the battery tube, it will take some
elbow grease though. I used two of those rubber band like wrenches so as not to mess up the finish. After that the driver/switch
and plastic mount for the spring battery contact just slid out the top of the battery tube.

do you mean those strap wrenches that bind up on the tube when tightened ? I sure dont want to scratch it!!

JLSE · Sep 3, 2010

If there is epoxy on the threads, which is not uncommon, you can
also try heating the assembly which will soften it.

The anodize can handle a fair amount of heat and not change colour
or burn. Just don't go overboard...

A good indicator is when you see some smoke. The moment
the smoke appears, the glue will be soft.

Just wrap it in a rag and work quickly, but not hastily. Too fast
and you end up with scratches

Try not to burn down the house!

op:

hakzaw1 · Sep 3, 2010

thanks J==what would you use to heat it--how about a butane torch lighter?

ps

say hi to Lucy from me--len in Tx

DTR · Sep 3, 2010

I hope your butane torch is better than my cheepy from DX.

Gryphon · Sep 3, 2010

hakzaw1 said:
do you mean those strap wrenches that bind up on the tube when tightened ? I sure dont want to scratch it!!

Yeah thats it, i bought a Craftsman pair for a couple bucks and they worked great. The rubber strap left no marks on the
laser, i even used those straps to take apart my Surefire, there is some serious glue holding those things together!

hakzaw1 · Sep 3, 2010

rotfl
that what I was talkin' bout.
i got three of those!! boy are they cheep- work ok for shrink tube tho

DTR · Sep 3, 2010

Do you have a driver selected for this project yet? If so which one and what current are you thinking about setting it to?

Modding an Aries 75 into a 445 1+watt Beastie

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