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mini driver

jake21

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i just made a driver just like ddl's to fit in a axiz casing and it works great ;)
 

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Did you get all the components, including the reverse voltage protection diode, in there..... I couldn't :(

Regards rog8811
 

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jake21

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here are the parts i used but i used 2 resistors
 

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jake21

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since i can make them into the axiz modual, im going to make one for my br diode and place it in a tiny box the size of a 9v batterie :)
 

IgorT

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Wow Jake, that's great!

Looks like you don't need any help afterall. I was wondering why you didn't write anything anymore.


You did an amazing job. Very impressive!
Feels great, when you build something yourself, doesn't it? Especially something like that.


BTW: What are you going to power it with in that 9V battery sized box? Some very small Li-Pos? (10220 or so?)
 

IgorT

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Well, in that case it's gonna be somewhat larger, than a 9V battery... CR123s are "huge".

I found some 1/2AA and 1/2AAA Li-Po batteries, which will alow me to use a 1AA or even a 1AAA flashlight host with the 317 driver.

I'm not sure i'm gonna use the AAA one, but i'm definatelly putting an open can into this:
 

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rkcstr

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For those LiPo 10440 batteries, what do you do about the minimum voltage?  I use some unprotected CR2s, but I have to check the voltage every so often to make sure they're not close to their minimum voltage.  I do usually notice the output dropping, but only in the burning ability and not so much brightness.

Anyone have a good method for "protecting" the batteries?  I thought about simply using a zener diode in series with the battery positive above the cutoff voltage, thinking once it dropped below it's breakdown voltage it would turn off, or at least greatly decrease the output so I'd know when to recharge.  It would have to be rated at least 1.5W (I think) to be safe for mine at 400mA, though.
 
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rkcstr said:
For those LiPo 10440 batteries, what do you do about the minimum voltage? I use some unprotected CR2s, but I have to check the voltage every so often to make sure they're not close to their minimum voltage. I do usually notice the output dropping, but only in the burning ability and not so much brightness.

Anyone have a good method for "protecting" the batteries? I thought about simply using a zener diode in series with the battery positive above the cutoff voltage, thinking once it dropped below it's breakdown voltage it would turn off, or at least greatly decrease the output so I'd know when to recharge. It would have to be rated at least 1.5W (I think) to be safe for mine at 400mA, though.

Too complicated for me and I've had 4 years of electrical engineering :eek:
 

phenol

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i rigged up a simple cct for protecting the Ni-MH cells in my LM3410 sepic driver for an open can red LD with LM393. Basically, when the voltage falls below a preset value a LED lights up and the circuit disables the LM3410 chip. There is also hysteresis in its response.
 

rkcstr

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Sorry for the off-topicness of this...


sk8er4514 said:
Too complicated for me and I've had 4 years of electrical engineering  :eek:

Haha, I haven't had any electrical engineering, I just read a lot when i'm interested in something.  Basically a zener diode has a specific voltage that it will conduct backwards, called breakdown voltage.  I thought that you could use a 4.1V or 4.7V zener connected from the battery positive to the driver positive input, so that if the batteries are above it's breakdown voltage, it will conduct, but below it won't (or at least greatly diminished).  I didn't really know if that was a good idea or not as it would have to be a pretty high rated zener (I'd probably do a 3W), but they're only like $.20-.30, so it would be a cheap solution.

phenol said:
i rigged up a simple cct for protecting the Ni-MH cells in my LM3410 sepic driver for an open can red LD with LM393. Basically, when the voltage falls below a preset value a LED lights up and the circuit disables the LM3410 chip. There is also hysteresis in its response.

What kind of circuit do you use?
 

phenol

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a comparator with hysteresis. LM393 is a dual comparator. I use 1 of them to monitor the batt voltage (3x AA NiMH) and compare it to a reference/LM336, adjustable/. When it drops(to ~3V) below the reference, its output toggles from H to L and disables the SMPS driver. Its output goes back H when the batt voltage gets higher by some 300mV (this is for 3xNiMH) above the turn-off threshold. The second comparator just drives a LED
 




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