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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Make A Battery For S3 Arctic

udanis

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This may seem kinda basic, but according to google analytics I received a fair number of hits to my website of people who are looking for Arctic batteries and battery upgrades. This orginally appeared on my website at and has been slightly modified for posting here
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One big issue of the S3 Arctic is the lack of battery options for it. The S3 uses an “unprotected 18650″ li-ion battery. Finding unprotected cells are more difficult than protected ones, this turtorial will show you how to convert a protected 18650 battery into a battery that will work with the arctic s3. This. tutorial is fairly straight foreword and can be done in a few minutes. If this isn’t done properly you could get injured or ruin the battery, you do this modification at your own risk.

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First thing you need to do is get yourself a protected 18650 cell. These can be bought cheaply online. Around $3.50 apiece. I’ve ordered cells from dealextreme.com before.

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Once you have the battery the next thing to be done is to carefully make a single cut down the heat-shrink. (We are going to use this over later)

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The next thing to be done is remove the hear-shrink. Now from this point on you have to procede safely. If the band that come from the circuit board to the positive end of the battery touches the case of the battery cell the lithium battery could short circuit and possibly explode.

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Okay so now we have a dangerous battery just sitting on the table in front of you. We want to make the battery as safe as we can as quick as we can.

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Okay so what we are going to do is remove the band that runs up the battery. We are going to remove it from the positive end of the cell. The band is attached to the cell by 2 spot welds. All you need to do to remove it is give it a gentle pull and twist with a small pair of needle nose pliers. Be careful not to let the pliers create a short between the positive end of the battery and the body of the cell.

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A simple tug and twist will remove the band off of the bottom of the shell.

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You can use a file to clean off any burs that occurred from the spot welds.

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Alright so you know that heat-shrink I told you to save. Your going to cut off around a 1/8″ off of the bottom of it.

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Now wrap the cell with the heat-shrink and cover any metal that exposed on the sides with cello-tape.

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TADA you have a cell that fits your Arctic.
 
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I once removed the protection from a CR123A Trustfire that had gone into protected mode and wouldn't come out. Well, I accidentally caused a short between the protection leads and while it did not damage the battery, the searing heat from it scorched my fingers and gave me a nice third-degree burned strip of roasted flesh on my thumb. Needless to say I never tried it again.

So watch out when doing this procedure!
 

anselm

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That's a great tutorial, but it seems like a lot of effort to me.
Just rip open an old, dead laptop battery pack, and inside you will
find 6-12 unprotected 18650s. Sometimes only one or two are defective,
or even all of them might still work fine, even though the batterys circuit
has declared the whole thing as dead.
I have got about 30-40 18650s like this. I don't even know what to do with them all.
Wanna buy some? :D
 
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udanis

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For my ARCTIC LASER, I shopped "BATTERY JUNCTION" & found an ULTRAFIRE, 'PROTECTED', 3000mAh, 18650 battery for $10.50, that fits in my ARCTIC LASER without having have to modify the battery or the laser in any way. Yes the battery cap screws on ALL THE WAY.....rob
 

csshih

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That's a great tutorial, but it seems like a lot of effort to me.
Just rip open an old, dead laptop battery pack, and inside you will
find 6-12 unprotected 18650s. Sometimes only one or two are defective,
or even all of them might still work fine, even though the batterys circuit
has declared the whole thing as dead.
I have got about 30-40 18650s like this. I don't even know what to do with them all.
Wanna buy some? :D

*ahem*
Tutorial: Laptop Battery Pack 18650 Extraction
 
Joined
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For my ARCTIC LASER, I shopped "BATTERY JUNCTION" & found an ULTRAFIRE, 'PROTECTED', 3000mAh, 18650 battery for $10.50, that fits in my ARCTIC LASER without having have to modify the battery or the laser in any way. Yes the battery cap screws on ALL THE WAY.....rob

Before you get too excited about that UltraFire cell, you might want to check out a couple websites of interest: Ultrafire 18650 3000mA exploded

Ultrafire BRC 3000mAh leaking ?

Light-Reviews.com • View topic - !WARNING! UltraFire BRC 18650 3000mAh
 
Last edited:
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Point well taken, however the exploding battery was in a MULTI-CELL FLASHLIGHT, not a single cell laser.




Also keep in mind that these cells may have not been protected, or protected very well. I find that most cells from DX and stuff that are listed as protected hardly due anything to protect the cell from overcharging or over discharging. Even several AW’s that I’ve tested fail to protect the cell from being over discharged. I’ve taken an AW purposely down to 2.3v without the low voltage protection kicking in.

Lastly, if you review several of these Li-ion explosions on CPF you will find that most of them have a few things in common.

1) Multiple cells in one light
2) High current draw

If your cells are used in either of these applications please make sure you test each cell indivdually to make sure all cells can deliver the same current and capacity.
 

ZapU

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I have used the Tenergy 2600 from BatteryJunction in mine. It fits and gives me 2 full hours of run time. Make sure you pick First Class Mail as the cheapest shipping option. $12.84 shipped.
 




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