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Old 04-08-2009, 06:16 PM #1
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Default LM317 test driver

I made a nice Rog-inspired LD test driver, thought I better post some pics.




Screw output terminals for wires, hooks, clamps etc. to the diode.


Input terminals, max 35V.


An on-off-on DPDT-switch turn the diode on, off, and discharge the capacitors. Another switch shorts the 1 ohm resistor at higher currents to spare some heat. Same with the pot, a safety jumper makes sure that the pot doesn't get disabled by mistake, and a LED confirms that the disabling-switch is live.


Some chosen limit resistors and arrays.


Fits in socket.


Allot of wires! But that's what makes it work.




driver board with some caps, diode and two voltage regulators, one adjustable for the laser (under heatsink), and one fixed for the fan.


Testing a high power LED.


Bright LED is bright...


Driven at 1.1A...

... and 3.67V



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Old 04-08-2009, 06:31 PM #2
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Default Re: LM317 test driver

Well, that is a lot more complex than mine.... I must have a look at those speaker wire conectors, they will last longer and are easier to use than my terminal block :-/

.....And you have just inspired me to put mine in a project box

Nice job, it is so worthwhile, I have used mine dozens of times over the last year or so[smiley=thumbup.gif]

Regards rog8811
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:32 PM #3
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Default Re: LM317 test driver

Nice workmanship.. I like all the bells and whistles, but something tells me if you were to happen to accidentally hit some of those switches during operation.. *poof*
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Old 04-08-2009, 06:59 PM #4
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Default Re: LM317 test driver

That's what the safety jumper is for. If I need the pot disabled it means that I'm using allot of current and the pot might otherwise fry, so I have to stick with fixed value resistors. If I'm using less current, say <500mA, I put move the jumper which is in series with the switch. In that way I can't accidentally kill the diode because the switch isn't live any more. Plus the LED is a reminder if the switch is live.

Quote:
Originally Posted by rog8811
Well, that is a lot more complex than mine.... *I must have a look at those speaker wire conectors, they will last longer and are easier to use than my terminal block :-/

.....And you have just inspired me to put mine in a project box

Nice job, it is so worthwhile, I have used mine dozens of times over the last year or so[smiley=thumbup.gif]

Regards rog8811
Thanks! I was lucky and got the terminals very cheap in a surplus grab-bag some time ago. Finally I got to use them!
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Old 04-10-2009, 02:52 PM #5
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Default Re: LM317 test driver

Schematic with colour-codes and parts list.




Squares:

Red = DPDT switch
Orange = electrolytic capacitor, 10uF, 50V
Yellow = LM317
Light green = current limit resistor
Green = voltmeter (reference voltage, 1.25V)
Light blue = 100 ohm potentiometer
Blue = on-off, or on-on toggle switch (disable potentiometer)
Violet = safety jumper (potentiometer)
Brown = safety jumper (LED). Both jumpers are mechanically connected.
Pink = electrolytic capacitor, 16uF, 35V
Gray = tantalum capacitor, 10uF, 35V


Dots:

Red = ceramic capacitor 100nF, 50V
Orange = 1N4007 silicon diode.
Yellow = 1 ohm resistor, 1%
Light green = on-off, or on-on toggle switch (disable 1 ohm resistor)
Green = voltmeter (LD current)
Light blue = voltmeter (LD voltage drop)
Blue = laser diode
Violet = 7812 voltage regulator
Brown = 12V fan
Pink = 2.2 kohm resistor
Gray = LED
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