JB weld

Does JB weld conduct heat enough to attatch heatsinks with it?
:thinking:

some what, it's better than not using it. it's better to use arctic silver if you must glue esp if it's critical.

Agreed..... Arctic Silver epoxy is the way to go for attaching
items that require thermal transfer...


Jerry

Tried their "arctic alumina" (that in reality is not aluminium metal, but oxyde, so is also insulant), and it work good enough, also if not as metal-metal soldering ..... but it's rigid, and for things that need bending, it risk to break or shatter.

I've ordered heat conductive silicone glue, too, from DX (3 weeks ago), for see if it's really efficent in heat conduction remaining flexible, but still waiting for the delivery (as usual here in Italy )

I've used JB weld on my northbridge and GPU heatsinks and it works great. I've also used it on a positive tabbed LM317 to attach it to a case negative host.

HIMNL9 said:

Tried their "arctic alumina" (that in reality is not aluminium metal, but oxyde, so is also insulant), and it work good enough, also if not as metal-metal soldering ..... but it's rigid, and for things that need bending, it risk to break or shatter.

I've ordered heat conductive silicone glue, too, from DX (3 weeks ago), for see if it's really efficent in heat conduction remaining flexible, but still waiting for the delivery (as usual here in Italy )

Click to expand...

I've been using DX's silicone glue. It does it's job pretty well, although I don't have any other thermal adhesives to compare it to. The only downside is that it is fairly easy to break. Press fits with this silicone adhesive are pretty good, but if you use it to mount a heatsink to a chip on a regulator, it may break off if you bump it too hard or drop it. But for DX's price, you may as well get a couple tubes.

I use dx white thermal glue also very good product ,I use jb a very little at a time because its so ridged

My idea, if their silicone is similar to the ones that is used for thermal exchange in phr sleds, is using it for exchange heat with LD modules and hosts, especially components.

The power components of the LD modules get really hot, sometimes (as example, my 150mW green from o-like, the power transistor get so hot that you can't keep a finger on it in 4 or 5 seconds) ..... so, i was thinking to fill completely the space from module and heatsink / host, not just the part around the brass module, but also the part where the driver is, front and back (excluding the button, if i decide to use it) ..... this way, all the assembly can transfer the heat to the host and improve the working cycle ..... and if that silicone is like the one used in phr, it's easy breakable, when needed, so if there is need to repair or for any reason dismantle the assembly, is still possible, also if with a little more effort

The other solution i have, apart the alumina, is my homemade thermal adhesive, i made it charging 2-parts epoxy resin with aluminium powder, it work good, but is a permanent fixing ..... no way for dismantle it, if i use it for fix the module in the host

MIghty PuTTy !

It's the good stuff

jander6442 said:

MIghty PuTTy !

It's the good stuff

Click to expand...

Will have to agree with you. It does smell bad at first though.

HIMNL9:
I know what you mean about the components on green laser drivers getting hot...
I use flat pieces from GGW/PHR sleds to heat-sink drivers. I just use a little blob of the DX silicone glue and stick it on the "hot" components. It's much easier than filling the entire space and it can be removed if necessary.

One problem I see with using aluminum powder in epoxy is that it may be electrically conductive. Applying it on a driver or other electrical devices may cause shorts.

^ Yes, this is the reason for which i want to test the DX silicone based product.

I'm planning to build 3 identical hosts for my always-decent-power modules, red green and BR, an i found hosts, but the diameters don't match, and having no machines, i had to "improvvisate".

But epoxy is not a good option, for me, not in this case, cause i want to keep the possibility to dismantle the assemblies, if i need them.

I was thinking to use some custom pieces of aluminium for "fill" the most part of the gap between the components and the copper tube that i use for adapt the different diameters, and then fill all the rest of the space with that glue (still not received it, anyway, so for the moment it's all "paused"