help me i broke the pins on my blu-ray diode

I canot belive i did this, is there any way to fix another leg on to the diode or is it gone forever. no its not the gnd pin (though i wish it was) its the + pin. :'(

Re: help me i broke the pims on my blu-ray diode

Which leg was it? If it was the positive leg for the violet diode, then it's gone forever. If it was the ground pin, you can fix it if you're careful.

thats what i thought, im so anoyed with my self yes the negative is grounded to the case so that would of been easy, but its the positive so now to destroy dvd burner i just got to get a doide out of that.

It can be done, my latest build had all the pins broken off and it works like a dream You will need the following:-

Multimeter.
A fine point soldering tip on your iron
Solder
Pair of tweezers.
A tantalum capacitor (10mf 16v)
Flux paste, if you have some....not essential.
Red and black wire.
Stranded wire any colour.
Jewlers loupe or magnifying glass.
Cocktail stick.

Take a tantalum capacitor,  shorten the positive leg, solder on your red and black wires so that they will exit through the hole in the aixiz module when you get the job done.

Now for the harder part... strip around an inch of the insulation from a piece of stranded wire, seperate 2 strands, twist them together and tin them with the soldering iron.  Wrap one end a couple of times around the shortened leg of the capacitor, solder in place. Cut the strands to be a bit longer than the other leg....put it aside.

To prepare the LD, dip the tip of your iron in flux and tin the broken end of the pin...this must be done carefully so that you do not bridge the black insulator, check with the loupe/magnifying glass.

solder the negative leg of the capacitor to the negative pin of the diode.

Now with the cocktail stick put a small dab of flux on the soldered strands, then using a pair of tweezers move the soldered strands round to touch the pin end, check it is in the right place with loupe. now very carefully touch the soldering iron to the twisted strands for long enough to get the joint made. Look at it with the loupe again to see that it looks OK.  Use the diode function of the multimeter across the red and black leads, one direction will show zero, the other will show something like 1.45 if it is working.

It took me at least 20 attempts to do it...(I don't give up easily) I filed the fine point on the soldering iron after many tries, it made all the differance.

Sorry about the long winded post but it is worth the effort

Regards rog8811

Just an addendum.... when you get it working mix up some araldite and feed it onto the back of the aixiz module and wires with the module lens downward.

The glue will run down the wires and pot the repair to make it strong enough to handle without breaking the delicate repair.

Maybe this isn't the correct place, but Rog, I notice you label capacitors "mf". What exactly is the difference between mf and uf?

Ace82 said:

Maybe this isn't the correct place, but Rog, I notice you label capacitors "mf". What exactly is the difference between mf and uf?

Click to expand...

As it goes, a few hundred years back a wacky physicist called Michael Faraday who knew roughly zero mathematics but made up for it with a boundless intuition, managed to lay down the foundations for effectively everything electrical and the unit of capacitance, the Farad, is named in his honour. Unfortunately it's too bloody large (by definition) to be of practical use so we use the units of 1/1,000,000 of a Farad (micro farad, [ch956]F - the greek letter mu, not u - bloody physicists) and 1/1000 of a Farad (milli farad, mF).

A little history of physics never hurt anyone. Except the people who are now... history.

bob1122 said:

[quote author=Ace82 link=1207684863/0#5 date=1207693238]Maybe this isn't the correct place, but Rog, I notice you label capacitors "mf". What exactly is the difference between mf and uf?

Click to expand...

As it goes, a few hundred years back a wacky physicist called Michael Faraday who knew roughly zero mathematics but made up for it with a boundless intuition, managed to lay down the foundations for effectively everything electrical and the unit of capacitance, the Farad, is named in his honour. Unfortunately it's too bloody large (by definition) to be of practical use so we use the units of 1/1,000,000 of a Farad (micro farad, [ch956]F - the greek letter mu, not u - bloody physicists) and 1/1000 of a Farad (milli farad, mF).

A little history of physics never hurt anyone. Except the people who are now... history.[/quote]


uh, ok. So (10X)? is the difference?666666666666666666666666 <-- my cat pressed all these sixes. [ch956] <-- =

I must admit I havenever made the distinction, as a draughtsman, drawing circuit diagrams, it always seemed acceptable to write [ch956] (mu) or m as being the same thing...at least I was never picked up on it :

I tend to use mf as I am too lazy to find the correct font to use [ch956].... If it really confuses people I will mend my ways :-[

Regards rog8811

thanks a heap rob i will try this on the weekend, but i will probably give up after a while. this seams so hard and my hand is not that steady.

my hand is not that steady.

Click to expand...

I suffer the same problem. All I can say is persevere, a blue ray is worth the effort

Regards rog8811

Just an addendum.... when you get it working mix up some araldite and feed it onto the back of the aixiz module and wires with the module lens downward.

The glue will run down the wires and pot the repair to make it strong enough to handle without breaking the delicate repair.

Click to expand...

Rog,
Will any epoxy work?, I have heard that some epoxies are slightly conductive, or have capicitance? I have done a similar repair on a BR and I would like to pot it with epoxy, as you suggest, but this issue has prevented me so far, (that and being lazy).
Thanks,
Dark Horse

I have used araldite many times, (slow setting not the 5 minute stuff). I can vouch for it's safe use, other epoxies? Sorry I cannot comment but if you mix some up and stick 2 wires in it, when set you can test it with a multimeter and a battery I would guess.

Regards rog8811

I usually type mu as u because I am too lasy to enter the special character on the keyboard. If I hand write it, I include the descender to make "u" "mu". "m" will always be milli for me. IIRC, older caps used to be labelled "mfd" - micro-farads.

older caps used to be labelled "mfd"

Click to expand...

You're only right chimo, that is exactly what I used to do! I had completely miss-remembered that, I will try to do it that way on future drawings.

Regards rog8811

i tried doing this but i cant get the solder to stick onto the top of the broken pin, is there a special solder that is best for this. in using flux cored solder and it says "tin/lead 60"