Guides on building blue rays

Are there any guides around that will help me build a blue ray laser? I am a complete newbie when it comes to electronics, I can do soldering etc. but anything that complicated I am completly in the dark.

So has anyone found a guide or could anyone possibly write one up?

Check out the DIY driver by DDL in this section of the forum. Get the parts you need to construct that driver. The only difference is that you will need a 33ohm resistor instead of 2x10ohm resistors. You can also skip the potentiometer. When building a blueray laser, ive read 9volts is the recommended input.

SargeMX5 said:

Check out the DIY driver by DDL in this section of the forum. Get the parts you need to construct that driver. The only difference is that you will need a 33ohm resistor instead of 2x10ohm resistors. You can also skip the potentiometer. When building a blueray laser, ive read 9volts is the recommended input.

Click to expand...

Sorry, where is that?

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1185701612

There u go champ.

Its pretty easy to follow. If you have problems just post up in here. Are you from AU? If so il make a BR suitable driver and send it to u for free.

I hate when people use stuff like DDL's guide when his name is Daedal, I looked all over for DDL my first time and never found him because DDL doesn't exist but Daedal does. Be careful I built his driver and I think I got a bluRay diode DOA because it doesn't work, just an expensive LED.

Did you make sure the diode didnt dc from the cap and that u used a 33ohm resistor?

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FYI,

If you power up the circuit to test and then don't discharge the cap before re-connecting the LD, then that spike will fry the LD, making it a very expensive LED. Also any static discharge that you can't even feel or see can kill it as well.

You should be working on a static mat w/ a static band attached to your arm as well. That is the only safe way to work w/ these LD's.

Also, I just read somewhere else that these B/R LD's can only be run at 7mw max, anything over that and it will slowly die out, 1mw per hour till death. So if really pushing these, they won't last too long.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, Joe

Joenobody said:

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FYI,

If you power up the circuit to test and then don't discharge the cap before re-connecting the LD, then that spike will fry the LD, making it a very expensive LED. Also any static discharge that you can't even feel or see can kill it as well.

You should be working on a static mat w/ a static band attached to your arm as well. That is the only safe way to work w/ these LD's.

Also, I just read somewhere else that these B/R LD's can only be run at 7mw max, anything over that and it will slowly die out, 1mw per hour till death. So if really pushing these, they won't last too long.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, Joe

Click to expand...

I agree, and I put a 100 ohm pot on mine, and it actually starts lasing pretty well at low 20 mAs, and is bright enough at ~30 mA, where without the pot and just the 33 ohm resistor it will be ~38 mA. Not too much brighter, and it's not like you are going to pop balloons or light matches anyways, so you may is well run it cooler and get a little longer life out of it.

Joenobody said:

.

FYI,

If you power up the circuit to test and then don't discharge the cap before re-connecting the LD, then that spike will fry the LD, making it a very expensive LED. Also any static discharge that you can't even feel or see can kill it as well.

You should be working on a static mat w/ a static band attached to your arm as well. That is the only safe way to work w/ these LD's.

Also, I just read somewhere else that these B/R LD's can only be run at 7mw max, anything over that and it will slowly die out, 1mw per hour till death. So if really pushing these, they won't last too long.

Hope this helps.

Thanks, Joe

Click to expand...

Good reminder about discharging capacitor before reconnecting diode. That is in case you decide to solder cap on circuit board and not directly to diode pins.
And yeh, ground yourself good while handling diode.
As for 1mW per hour slow death, that might be very true but it depends on diode and on current morw than power output. Although power output does vary from diode to diode, it is safe to say DO NOT let over 40mA into it if you want it to last long time. There are people who got over 20mW from just 38mA, and those the lucky ones. I doubt they will be dying out 1mW per hour at that current.

Milos

I didn't short the cap, I think that's my problem :-/ How is it done? 1ohm resistor? A wire?

goldfingerfif said:

I didn't short the cap, I think that's my problem  :-/  How is it done?  1ohm resistor? A wire?  

Click to expand...

Anything will work. You can touch the leads together, use a wire, screwdriver, etc. If you had a bigger capacitance cap, you would want to use a resistor to avoid the big spark when discharging a , for example, 1 farad cap.

[highlight](Quote Milos)

Good reminder about discharging capacitor before reconnecting diode. That is in case you decide to solder cap on circuit board and not directly to diode pins.
And yeh, ground yourself good while handling diode.
As for 1mW per hour slow death, that might be very true but it depends on diode and on current morw than power output.  Although power output does vary from diode to diode, it is safe to say DO NOT let over 40mA into it if you want it to last long time. There are people who got over 20mW from just 38mA, and those the lucky ones. I doubt they will be dying out 1mW per hour at that current.

Milos[/quote][/highlight]

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Hello Milos,
I don't know at what current was stated to start the killing process. (which would vary due to the LD charactoristics as well) I just remember seeing it say anything over a 7mw output would start to kill it at a rate of 1mw per hour, I am assuming if run continuous to achieve these figures.
I am thinking it was a statement made in another thread here at LPF saying that DrLava had run a new test on these and this is what he came up with. With the mention that more info was to come soon. ( that just came to mind. It was late last night when I ran across this info and I was all over the place here and there and elsewhere, so don't hold me to the source)
Please post if you know more of this?
I have 4 B/R's here and was going to build one up tonight. But I haven't received my Thermal Meter from Kenom yet, so I can't do to much testing.
Thanks guys,
Joe