DIY Laser Torch

jayrob · Mar 10, 2008

robjdixon said:
so i don't need a silicon diode and cap?

You still need the silicon diode and cap. The only thing that you are changeing, is the resistance. No pot, and only one resistor instead of 2. I like the 3 ohm resistor for the open can build. But a 3.3 ohm resistor would be pretty good too...
Jay

robjdixon · Mar 10, 2008

is there a schematic?
Why do i sudden;y need those?
will th resistor you are sending me work ok?
do i need 3.0 or 3.6 v batteries for my laser.

Sorry for all the questions, i don't want to screw anything up...

jayrob · Mar 10, 2008

robjdixon said:
is there a schematic?
Why do i sudden;y need those?
will th resistor you are sending me work ok?
do i need 3.0 or 3.6 v batteries for my laser.

Sorry for all the questions, i don't want to screw anything up...

Yes, the 3 ohm resistor I sent with the heatsink is the one that I like to use to get 420mA's for the open can diode. You will need 2 X 3.6 volt RCR123 rechargeable batteries. The schematic for DDL's driver is here:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1185701612
He even has links in there for the parts. Again, the only thing different from the schematic, is that you will be building your driver without the pot, and using a single, 3 ohm resistor at the LM317...
Jay

robjdixon · Mar 10, 2008

cheers

zuixro · Mar 12, 2008

I am planning on doing this with one of the Phazor diodes, Meredith Housing (and adapter), one of Jayrob's heatsinks, and the MXDL host. Total cost (excluding shipping for the housing) $106.20. I might need to raise some more funds before trying this...(also I need to finish my Blu-Ray first) But in the end, I will have a 300mw red burning laser in a professional looking package. I plan on using Arctic Silver at every thermal-related connection. Has anyone tried this exact combo that can give me some tips?

jayrob · Mar 12, 2008

zuixro said:
I am planning on doing this with one of the Phazor diodes, Meredith Housing (and adapter), one of Jayrob's heatsinks, and the MXDL host. Total cost (excluding shipping for the housing) $106.20. I might need to raise some more funds before trying this...(also I need to finish my Blu-Ray first) But in the end, I will have a 300mw red burning laser in a professional looking package. I plan on using Arctic Silver at every thermal-related connection. Has anyone tried this exact combo that can give me some tips?

I can tell you that you can't go wrong with the MXDL host and a DDL driver. And of course, one of my heatsinks! I have not tried the Phazor diodes yet, but I have a couple of them ordered. We know that the open can's are awesome at 420mA's. I have some tips for the MXDL build on the driver, and the heatsink as well:
http://www.sonic.net/~jayrob/MXDLDriverTips.doc
http://www.sonic.net/~jayrob/MXDLHeatsinkTips.doc
Making and 'fitting' the driver is the most technical part of the build. I have found, that if you can bore out the I.D. of the MXDL threaded driver mount, it will be very helpful, giving more room inside...
Jay

steelybob · Mar 13, 2008

zuixro said:
I am planning on doing this with one of the Phazor diodes, Meredith Housing (and adapter), one of Jayrob's heatsinks, and the MXDL host. Total cost (excluding shipping for the housing) $106.20. I might need to raise some more funds before trying this...(also I need to finish my Blu-Ray first) But in the end, I will have a 300mw red burning laser in a professional looking package. I plan on using Arctic Silver at every thermal-related connection. Has anyone tried this exact combo that can give me some tips?

i just completed this same setup only with the sony nec open can and it really wasn't too hard... just have to be slow and take your time. one of the things i wish i could go back in time and redo is not take my meredith unit apart and play with it. it ended up costing me time and headache by not putting it back together correctly. other than that building the circuit is pretty easy and just make sure you hold the assembly together when you are putting it together or taking it apart so you don't twist your wires. if you didn't know how this thing was put together and found one laying around and decided to open it i gurantee you would mess something up. there is a standing rule that no one is to touch my mxdl for safety reasons, so it won't get dropped, and so someone won't try to take it apart and mess something up. i have to give almost all of my credit to jayrob and his excellent advice. i plan on building another one soon and will be getting another heatsink... well worth the money.

steelybob

robjdixon · Mar 13, 2008

is there a video for the driver making?
i swear i saw one somewhere. If not, could someon kindly post some pictures colse up of all around the driver, or if someone could make a short clip, that would be great.

jayrob · Mar 13, 2008

steelybob said:
i have to give almost all of my credit to jayrob and his excellent advice. i plan on building another one soon and will be getting another heatsink... well worth the money.

steelybob

Thanks for that steelybob. I too have people to credit for this great build. Of course Daedal, who first showed this great MXDL host and driver! It has evolved into this 300mW monster, with the upgrade of the awesome open can diodes! Which Gazoo first showed here at LPF. And he gives that credit to VaThInk. At this power in a handheld, the heatsink is needed. LarryQ gave me my first heatsink that he had made. I only took his idea, and modified it some. But what a great combination this build is! One of the best builds out there. Just let me know when your ready for your next heatsink...
Jay

robjdixon · Mar 17, 2008

what is the voltage that the diode needs at the end?

zanthrax · Mar 18, 2008

Okay, So I made my first circuit on a bread board, and now have finnished my new one (same parts) for this flash light mod. However when i tested the voltage, it was around 6v (using the same power source as the bread board, a 9v) However I remember the voltage being much lower with the pot on board, around 2.6v. Is this a problem? As in will my 6v harm my LD? Thx...

jayrob · Mar 19, 2008

robjdixon said:
what is the voltage that the diode needs at the end?

zanthrax said:
Okay, So I made my first circuit on a bread board, and now have finnished my new one (same parts) for this flash light mod. However when i tested the voltage, it was around 6v (using the same power source as the bread board, a 9v) However I remember the voltage being much lower with the pot on board, around 2.6v. Is this a problem? As in will my 6v harm my LD? Thx...

The (unloaded) DDL driver will show a voltage very close to what ever your supply voltage is. But after connecting your diode, the LD is going to take what ever voltage it needs. So, as long as you have your current correct, the voltage will take care of itself. You just need to have a supply voltage of over 6 for the reds (use 2 X 3.6 volt), and use at least 9 volts for a blu-ray diode...
Jay

hydro · Mar 23, 2008

Question about the LM317 regulator.

In place of the LM317 can I use the MPSA14 TO92 NPN? This is much smaller and no heatsink like the LM317.

zanthrax · Mar 23, 2008

hydro said:
Question about the LM317 regulator.

In place of the LM317 can I use the MPSA14 TO92 NPN? This is much smaller and no heatsink like the LM317.

From what I've read, you can. But it will get hot to the touch after just a few minutes, so even a cut heatsink one could be a better choice for the long term.

Now on to my question, I'm just getting messed up when it's coming to the resistors and the pot. What resistor are you guys using when no pot is present, because even when the pot is "off" there is still some resistence going on. I'm makin a few for friends, so I want to keep it cheap, and its too hard to fit a pot in there, don't want to adjust it etc..lol. Yes i'm lazy!

JayRob- what resistor do you use, I like how you have it single...? or do you have a link to share, it would help me a lot, thx! (I'm using LDs from StoneTek, supposed 20x and come with an Axiz module) I'm readin through this thread now, just hopen for a faster more precise response... dont want to waste a bunch when i buy in bulk.

chido · Mar 23, 2008

If you're using a StoneTek diode it's not a 20x, it's a 16x diode and most people use a 5 ohm resistor (or more commonly two 10ohm resistors in parallel which give you 5 ohms) to power it at 250mA of current.

zanthrax · Mar 24, 2008

Alright, so i should use a 5 ohm resistor, thats black gree black gold i believe. one last question, 1/4 watt or 1/2 a watt? I seems most use 1/2watt but i have a whole bunch of 1/4 resistors. You were right about that 16x LD... though i could swear i read 20x... must be goin crazy or forgeting to count, which is better?

DIY Laser Torch

jayrob

0

robjdixon

0

jayrob

0

robjdixon

0

zuixro

0

jayrob

0

Attachments

steelybob

0

robjdixon

0

jayrob

0

robjdixon

0

zanthrax

0

jayrob

0

hydro

0

zanthrax

0

chido

0

zanthrax

0

Online statistics

Forum statistics

Share this page