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DIY Laser Torch

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troop231

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Well, I almost gave up on this, my diode short circuited when I assembled everything together, the pins on the diode twisted together when I tried to assemble it. :mad: But I should be getting my new diode in a few days, any suggestions on how to prevent the pins from twisting together? Thanks! :)
 





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desslok

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troop231 said:
Well, I almost gave up on this, my diode short circuited when I assembled everything together, the pins on the diode twisted together when I tried to assemble it.  :mad: But I should be getting my new diode in a few days, any suggestions on how to prevent the pins from twisting together? Thanks!  :)
Click to expand...

Depends. Do you have a hot glue gun? That is quick and easy. Heat shrink can help, tape if you are really desparate. But I think I am going to start using Plastic Epoxy. Regular epoxy will probably be fine too, but the plastic epoxy I got at Home Depot seems to really work well.
 
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troop231

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Ugg!!! This diode I just ordered must have touched again also! And I even used hot glue! WTF? UGG! I give up! Another 20 some dollars wasted! Can someone please help a brother out building it?!! Im sick of this thing, I have all of this, but I give up on the dang diode.

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Gazoo

Gazoo

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I don't know what it could have touched. Maybe you are running too much current into it. There are some reported problems with the SenKat diodes lately. Best suggestion I have is to get a heatsink from Jay, and harvest an open can diode from the Sony burners that are on sale.
 
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troop231

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I think the problem is that the silver solder wont like to get a good grab on those brass pins, and when they pop off, then retouch the LD pins, the capacitor discharges into the diode :-[ This might be the cause? Now where can I get an open can diode on ebay? Or whats the best dvd drive on ebay for harvesting open cans? Thanks! ;D
 
Gazoo

Gazoo

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troop231 said:
I think the problem is that the silver solder wont like to get a good grab on those brass pins, and when they pop off, then retouch the LD pins, the capacitor discharges into the diode :-[ This might be the cause? Now where can I get an open can diode on ebay? Or whats the best dvd drive on ebay for harvesting open cans? Thanks! ;D
Click to expand...

You need to use a little soldering paste. I am not a big fan of silver solder. I use plain ol rosin core solder and don't use any paste.

The best deal on the Sony drive is from Newegg.

http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1202158967
 
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troop231

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Oh hey, also, where do I get a module that is not acrylic lens? I want to try a glass lens, or is there an adapter that screws in the axiiz module to make it a glass lens? Thanks!
 
laser_freak

laser_freak

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troop231 said:
[quote author=Gazoo link=1186966870/240#243 date=1200186620]If you have your meter on the 10AMP scale reading, then it will show .25ma's. This is the same as 250ma's.
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This is how my meter is. So how can I get it to say 245-250ma like my previous pics? Something is up here.[/quote]

Where did you get that Multi-Meter? Mine broke a few days ago and was wanting to get a new one. Yours looks fairly nice! :D
 
G

geek

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So I ordered a pair of diodes off of ebay (I would include the link, but I'm too new), and I was hoping to get some opinions/estimates about a safe current to aim for with this MXDL setup. Basically what resistor to use and what I can expect for laser output.

The numbers from the data sheet:
Max Values 150mW CW, 300mW Pulsed

The "Tested" section on the sheet says 80mW at 150mA. I'm pretty sure this is CW.

I was hesitant to order a diode from stonetek with the recent JL VL business, hopefully these work out ok.

So any suggestions on a safe input current?
 
Gazoo

Gazoo

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geek said:
So I ordered a pair of diodes off of ebay (I would include the link, but I'm too new), and I was hoping to get some opinions/estimates about a safe current to aim for with this MXDL setup. Basically what resistor to use and what I can expect for laser output.

The numbers from the data sheet:
Max Values 150mW CW, 300mW Pulsed

The "Tested" section on the sheet says 80mW at 150mA. I'm pretty sure this is CW.

I was hesitant to order a diode from stonetek with the recent JL VL business, hopefully these work out ok.

So any suggestions on a safe input current?
Click to expand...

Two more posts and you can post the link, but you can always post the item number. If they are rated at 150mw's cw then it will take appx. 250ma's. I would need to see the auction to be sure.
 
Gazoo

Gazoo

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Assuming the specs he posted are accurate, I would treat it just like the SenKat diode. Running it with 250ma's will give you an output a bit greater than 150mw's. Note: this might still kill the diode.

If you want to play it safe, use a current of 160ma's or so. The diode will still be a pretty darn good burner. You would need a 7.8 ohm resistor. So I would wire up the 317 with a 5 ohm resistor and put a pot in series with it.
 
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geek

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Going to be tough to fit a pot in there with the 317, maybe I will have to order a smaller version from digikey or mouser after all. Thanks again for the help.
 
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