DIY Laser Torch - Page 12 - Laser Pointer Forums

Ifrgtmyname · 02-27-2008, 02:08 PM

Call me a bit of a noob here but why would batteries be such a big problem, after all u do have a capacitor. Also the batteries are meant to chuck out 3V each right?

So if the battery is sending out 3.1V how much harm would it do?- What is the watershed?

jayrob · 02-27-2008, 02:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Ifrgtmyname

Call me a bit of a noob here but why would batteries be such a big problem, after all u do have a capacitor. Also the batteries are meant to chuck out 3V each right?

So if the battery is sending out 3.1V how much harm would it do?- What is the watershed?

Depending on the driver/LD combination. I know about the LM317 based drivers. (DDL) There are other drivers. The DDL driver is very poplular. The red diodes draw about 3 volts. The blu-rays draw 4.5 to 5 volts. The DDL driver needs over 3 volts total. So, depending on what LD you are trying to drive, and what driver you want to use, you must have the proper battery supply voltage...
Jay

bcroft · 02-29-2008, 03:15 AM

i been paying attention to mA and not the battery voltage. im using DDLs driver, plan on using a phazor LD from the GB and just ordered some batteries that the volts are supposed to be 3.0 to 3.2 under load but charge up to 3.6. is 3.6 too much for my setup? how do find out if it is?

jayrob · 02-29-2008, 04:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bcroft

i been paying attention to mA and not the battery voltage. *im using DDLs driver, plan on using a phazor LD from the GB and just ordered some batteries that the volts are supposed to be 3.0 to 3.2 under load but charge up to 3.6. *is 3.6 too much for my setup? * how do find out if it is?

For the DDL (LM317 based) driver, and a Phazor (red) dioed, you want at least 2 X 3.6 volt batteries. The driver can handle up to 37 volts input. But for driving these red diodes, the 3.6 rechargeable batteries X 2, are just right...
Jay

zanthrax · 03-03-2008, 02:16 AM

I have a LM317 transitor, but unlike yours its larger and has a metal piece with a circular hole cut into it, what exactly is the difference and can I use it in this project? Thanks!

jayrob · 03-03-2008, 02:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by zanthrax

I have a LM317 transitor, but unlike yours its larger and has a metal piece with a circular hole cut into it, what exactly is the difference and can I use it in this project? Thanks!

I use the same LM317 that you are talking about. Take a look at the pictures and notes in my 'Driver Tips' document. You have to cut the metal piece down some to make room. Also, be aware that this metal part of the LM317, is VOut (as well as the middle pin). So, do not let it touch anything...
Jay
http://www.sonic.net/~jayrob/MXDLDriverTips.doc

steelybob · 03-05-2008, 12:30 PM

got my heatsink from jayrob and merideth unit in the last couple of days. i have all my components to make the driver if my damn mxdl will ever get here from china. anyway here are some pics of what i have so far... god i hope i haven't fried anything yet lol.

steelybob

meredith glass unit installed

steelybob · 03-05-2008, 12:32 PM

heatsink

jayrob · 03-05-2008, 02:38 PM

steelybob, that's looking really clean! Just a note to others about the Meredith, if you haven't used one before, (I think that you and I already discussed this) but from your pictures, you can see that the focussing knob/ring is not screwed in all the way. The Meredith modules, can be a little 'tricky' to get to the proper focus. Especially the glass lens ones. Take a look at my notes/tips on the Meredith modules here in my 'Heatsink Tips' document...
Jay
http://www.sonic.net/~jayrob/MXDLHeatsinkTips.doc

P.S. I have some other useful information on the DDL style driver here:
http://www.sonic.net/~jayrob/MXDLDriverTips.doc

I have sometimes even had to go a step further to get focus with the Meredith glass lens. Take a close look at this picture. The outer 'skirt' of this brass piece, (where the spring is connected) has been cut shorter. This is to allow more room inside the module case for focussing.

steelybob · 03-05-2008, 04:31 PM

jayrob thank you again for all your help. after i took those pics i did take the LD back out and filed about .030 off of the face of the brass adapter. i guess i will have to see once i get everything together if i need to file some of the skirt off... we'll see.

clwatkins10 · 03-05-2008, 11:25 PM

looks very nice and professional

Abray · 03-06-2008, 01:13 AM

Ok I've already fried one diode in this project and have absolutely no idea why. When I checked the current, it either read 1,200 mA or 300 mA or 600 mA, depending on how it was feeling (meaning I have no idea). I had checked and double checked my circuit, and still got an LED. Now I am working on trying to actually make a driver for this so when my two new drives arrive, I can actually NOT fry them! I think my curcuit is ok, even though it seems it only works when it wants to. I just have a problem with the circuit board found within the MXDL. It won't stay put in that metal piece, and this really messes with the battery configuration. Also, where exactly do I need a wire leading back to the negative terminal of the battery? I can't seem to figure this out, and I think this may be a problem too.

I'm not exactly a "noob", but I am having ALOT of trouble with this project. any help?

jayrob · 03-06-2008, 01:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abray

Ok I've already fried one diode in this project and have absolutely no idea why. When I checked the current, it either read 1,200 mA or 300 mA or 600 mA, depending on how it was feeling (meaning I have no idea). I had checked and double checked my circuit, and still got an LED. Now I am working on trying to actually make a driver for this so when my two new drives arrive, I can actually NOT fry them! I think my curcuit is ok, even though it seems it only works when it wants to. I just have a problem with the circuit board found within the MXDL. It won't stay put in that metal piece, and this really messes with the battery configuration. Also, where exactly do I need a wire leading back to the negative terminal of the battery? I can't seem to figure this out, and I think this may be a problem too.

I'm not exactly a "noob", but I am having ALOT of trouble with this project. any help?

Abray, this 'Driver Tips' page should help you to see how the ground is connected. The MXDL tail switch, is what connects the body of the MXDL to the negative side of the batteries. So you have to connect the negative side of your driver, to the MXDL case...
Jay
http://www.sonic.net/~jayrob/MXDLDriverTips.doc

Abray · 03-06-2008, 02:10 AM

jay, if I have the negative just touching that metal screw-in-piece, is it routed all the way to the negative terminal?

jayrob · 03-06-2008, 04:15 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abray

jay, if I have the negative just touching that metal screw-in-piece, is it routed all the way to the negative terminal?

Yes, the MXDL body IS the negative side of the batteries, when the swich is on...
Jay

Abray · 03-06-2008, 11:55 PM

I'm pretty sure everything that could possibly go wrong has. I was working with the circuit today and found that the negative lead wasn't my problem at all. The circuit just doesn't work for some reason. I unsoldered it and re soldered it and nothing. I checked the resistor, and tried to check the capacitor, but my multimeter couldn't do it for some reason. Is there any way to check the LM 317? anyway, I hooked an actual LED up and it worked for a little bit, and then all of a sudden when I put the batteries back on, the LED ceased to work. and that was the first time I got the circuit to work in a LONG time. I have switched out LM317's and everything. it just hates me for some reason.

I seriously don't know what to do now. I am going to order new parts YET AGAIN, and if it doesn't work this time, it is no longer worth my time as it will obviously not work for me. I almost want to send the circuit to somebody here and have them tell me if it works for them. see if they can get it to work. I know I sound as if I have all the problems and such, but I promise you I'm not stupid and I seriously can't find the cause for this lol.

I can try to put some pictures up, but I don't know how much that will help.

also, is it possible that I have old solder covering the wires, preventing current from getting through? or does old solder work just like new solder? and if that is my problem, how do you clean wires of solder?

jayrob · 03-07-2008, 05:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abray

I'm pretty sure everything that could possibly go wrong has. I was working with the circuit today and found that the negative lead wasn't my problem at all. The circuit just doesn't work for some reason. I unsoldered it and re soldered it and nothing. I checked the resistor, and tried to check the capacitor, but my multimeter couldn't do it for some reason. Is there any way to check the LM 317? anyway, I hooked an actual LED up and it worked for a little bit, and then all of a sudden when I put the batteries back on, the LED ceased to work. and that was the first time I got the circuit to work in a LONG time. I have switched out LM317's and everything. it just hates me for some reason.

I seriously don't know what to do now. I am going to order new parts YET AGAIN, and if it doesn't work this time, it is no longer worth my time as it will obviously not work for me. I almost want to send the circuit to somebody here and have them tell me if it works for them. see if they can get it to work. I know I sound as if I have all the problems and such, but I promise you I'm not stupid and I seriously can't find the cause for this lol.

I can try to put some pictures up, but I don't know how much that will help.

also, is it possible that I have old solder covering the wires, preventing current from getting through? or does old solder work just like new solder? and if that is my problem, how do you clean wires of solder?

One practice that I have found very helpful, especially when building the driver as small as you can, like making it fit onto the MXDL round circuit board with the silicon diode and cap on there as well...is the use of the DMM. Checking for continuity after you solder each component in place. Also checking that the parts that aren't supposed to touch other parts are not connected. (using the DMM) Especially, checking the little round circuit board. Check from where the battery connects, to the LM317 leg. You must make sure that all of the connections in the circuit are correct, and not connecting any other component or ground that they are not supposed to. Only when you are sure you have it right, then put the driver in place, and test for continuity between the MXDL body, and the negative lead that you have soldered onto the driver circuit. Then, put the batteries in and check for voltage first, then current.

Probably, it is best to solder the silicon diode and cap, direct to the LD. Like DDL showed in his first page of this thread. That way, it protects you from 'forgetting to discharge the cap after testing the circuit'. Also, it leaves more room on the MXDL board. The only thing, is that with my heatsink, there is limited room inside. (under the heatsink) There is enough, you just have to be careful when you position the heatsink, making sure that the components aren't going to 'smash' into each other...
Jay

steelybob · 03-07-2008, 03:46 PM

i got the driver built last night and everything installed... just waiting on the batteries :'( . i did check everything that i could check without voltage and everything seems to be ok so far. i even went as far as testing it real quick with just a 3.0 volt battery to see if i even saw anything red come from the diode and it shined red... then i stopped. i just couldn't resist seeing if it even worked or not. tonight will be the true test if my batteries come and after they get charged/tested. pics to follow soon

ZANE · 03-07-2008, 04:31 PM

Holy crap- Nice job!!

Abray · 03-07-2008, 08:55 PM

how exactly do you check for continuity? my DMM explains it like this (and I don't get it): "Touch the test leads across the circuit you want to measure. 'shrt' appears and the buzzer sounds if the circuit resistance is less than about 50 ohms (meaning the circuit is continuous or shorted). 'open' appears and the meter's buzzer does not sound if the circuit resistance is greater than about 50 ohms (meaning the circuit is not continuous)."

can somebody explain that? or tell me a better way to check it.

and I don't think the problem is any unwanted connections. I have the circuit out and spread out, meaning I can see everything perfectly, and no wires are even close to touching

steelybob · 03-09-2008, 12:11 AM

SUCCESS! got my batteries in and charged and it was such a pain waiting too lol. i had my meredith unit together wrong (don't ask) but after i got it together correctly and a bit more filed off of it it focuses just perfectly and i have been lighting shit on fire all night hehe. i will get some pics soon but i am having too much fun popping balloons and messin with my neighbors dog ;D

jayrob · 03-09-2008, 12:36 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Abray

how exactly do you check for continuity? my DMM explains it like this (and I don't get it): "Touch the test leads across the circuit you want to measure. 'shrt' appears and the buzzer sounds if the circuit resistance is less than about 50 ohms (meaning the circuit is continuous or shorted). 'open' appears and the meter's buzzer does not sound if the circuit resistance is greater than about 50 ohms (meaning the circuit is not continuous)."

can somebody explain that? or tell me a better way to check it.

and I don't think the problem is any unwanted connections. I have the circuit out and spread out, meaning I can see everything perfectly, and no wires are even close to touching

Abray, that's all I meant by checking the continuity. Just to check if things are connected. And that things which are not supposed to be connected, are not. One of the main things to test for, is the pinched ground. Test this after you mount the threaded ring with the driver 'pinched' in place, then touch one probe to the MXDL body, and the other probe to your negative lead coming off of the driver. You should hear the beep. (closed) This test will tell you that you have it grounded properly...
Jay

robjdixon · 03-09-2008, 09:07 PM

will the two resistors and lm317 do as a driver, or it it likely to go tits up?
(I have a heatsink)

jayrob · 03-09-2008, 09:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by robjdixon

will the two resistors and lm317 do as a driver, or it it likely to go tits up?
(I have a heatsink)

What LD are you going to run with the driver? I am guessing, since you have one of my heatsinks, that you are going to use the MXDL. If, you are going to harvest an open can diode. Then, just the LM317, with a 3 ohm resistor is your driver. You will also need a silicon diode and a cap. DDL has parts listed for the silicon diode and cap here:
http://www.laserpointerforums.com/fo...num=1185701612
The 3 ohm resistor will give you 420mA's. Or, you could go with a 3.3 ohm resistor instead. This would give you somewhere around 380mA's. These suggestions are for an open can diode...
Jay

steelybob · 03-10-2008, 02:08 AM

ok i have had this working for about a day or so now and my batteries died so i had to recharge them. they only lasted about a total of maybe 1 hour "on" time... does this seem short to anyone? maybe they are shit batteries but i recharged them and it is back to normal. voltage after charging is 3.8ish or so volts... sometime readings as high as 4.1 depending on how i hold the probe.

02-27-2008, 02:08 PM	#276
Ifrgtmyname Class 1M Laser Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 116 Rep Power: 3	Re: DIY Laser Torch Call me a bit of a noob here but why would batteries be such a big problem, after all u do have a capacitor. Also the batteries are meant to chuck out 3V each right? So if the battery is sending out 3.1V how much harm would it do?- What is the watershed?

02-29-2008, 03:15 AM	#278
bcroft Class 1M Laser Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 120 Rep Power: 3	Re: DIY Laser Torch i been paying attention to mA and not the battery voltage. im using DDLs driver, plan on using a phazor LD from the GB and just ordered some batteries that the volts are supposed to be 3.0 to 3.2 under load but charge up to 3.6. is 3.6 too much for my setup? how do find out if it is?

03-03-2008, 02:16 AM	#280
zanthrax Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 14 Rep Power: 0	Re: DIY Laser Torch I have a LM317 transitor, but unlike yours its larger and has a metal piece with a circular hole cut into it, what exactly is the difference and can I use it in this project? Thanks!

03-05-2008, 12:30 PM	#282
steelybob Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 11 Rep Power: 0	Re: DIY Laser Torch got my heatsink from jayrob and merideth unit in the last couple of days. i have all my components to make the driver if my damn mxdl will ever get here from china. anyway here are some pics of what i have so far... god i hope i haven't fried anything yet lol. steelybob meredith glass unit installed Attached Thumbnails

03-05-2008, 12:32 PM	#283
steelybob Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 11 Rep Power: 0	Re: DIY Laser Torch heatsink Attached Thumbnails

03-05-2008, 02:38 PM	#284
jayrob Class 4 Laser Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Northern CA, U.S. Astrophotography! (Some of my Photos) Posts: 7,193 Rep Power: 303	Re: DIY Laser Torch steelybob, that's looking really clean! Just a note to others about the Meredith, if you haven't used one before, (I think that you and I already discussed this) but from your pictures, you can see that the focussing knob/ring is not screwed in all the way. The Meredith modules, can be a little 'tricky' to get to the proper focus. Especially the glass lens ones. Take a look at my notes/tips on the Meredith modules here in my 'Heatsink Tips' document... Jay http://www.sonic.net/~jayrob/MXDLHeatsinkTips.doc P.S. I have some other useful information on the DDL style driver here: http://www.sonic.net/~jayrob/MXDLDriverTips.doc I have sometimes even had to go a step further to get focus with the Meredith glass lens. Take a close look at this picture. The outer 'skirt' of this brass piece, (where the spring is connected) has been cut shorter. This is to allow more room inside the module case for focussing. __________________ Personal lasers: RPL 425, O-like 250, Evolution Pro 150, Nova X-105, Nexus 95, RPL 35 (473), GLP-473, GLP-593.5, HeNe 632.8, Many DIY red, blu-ray, and green builds... (now 445!) Looking for a DIY kit? Take a look at some of my more popular kits linked in color... * FS: 405-G-1 Glass Lens Mod for Blu-ray! 31% increase in power vs AixiZ acrylic! * FS: Parts - 12X Star Trek Phaser! Awesome 12X build! Must see my Youtube video linked in my tutorial... * FS: DIY Green Build Kits! Easy assembly in minutes! * FS: Pocket Mini Build Kits! 'HOT' option for FlexDrive installed! Click here for a list of my build kits! Projects and tutorials too!

03-05-2008, 04:31 PM	#285
steelybob Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 11 Rep Power: 0	Re: DIY Laser Torch jayrob thank you again for all your help. after i took those pics i did take the LD back out and filed about .030 off of the face of the brass adapter. i guess i will have to see once i get everything together if i need to file some of the skirt off... we'll see.

03-05-2008, 11:25 PM	#286
clwatkins10 Class 2M Laser Join Date: Jan 2008 Posts: 606 Rep Power: 5	Re: DIY Laser Torch looks very nice and professional

03-06-2008, 01:13 AM	#287
Abray Class 2M Laser Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 926 Rep Power: 6	Re: DIY Laser Torch Ok I've already fried one diode in this project and have absolutely no idea why. When I checked the current, it either read 1,200 mA or 300 mA or 600 mA, depending on how it was feeling (meaning I have no idea). I had checked and double checked my circuit, and still got an LED. Now I am working on trying to actually make a driver for this so when my two new drives arrive, I can actually NOT fry them! I think my curcuit is ok, even though it seems it only works when it wants to. I just have a problem with the circuit board found within the MXDL. It won't stay put in that metal piece, and this really messes with the battery configuration. Also, where exactly do I need a wire leading back to the negative terminal of the battery? I can't seem to figure this out, and I think this may be a problem too. I'm not exactly a "noob", but I am having ALOT of trouble with this project. any help? __________________ I play track

03-06-2008, 02:10 AM	#289
Abray Class 2M Laser Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 926 Rep Power: 6	Re: DIY Laser Torch jay, if I have the negative just touching that metal screw-in-piece, is it routed all the way to the negative terminal? __________________ I play track

03-06-2008, 11:55 PM	#291
Abray Class 2M Laser Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 926 Rep Power: 6	Re: DIY Laser Torch I'm pretty sure everything that could possibly go wrong has. I was working with the circuit today and found that the negative lead wasn't my problem at all. The circuit just doesn't work for some reason. I unsoldered it and re soldered it and nothing. I checked the resistor, and tried to check the capacitor, but my multimeter couldn't do it for some reason. Is there any way to check the LM 317? anyway, I hooked an actual LED up and it worked for a little bit, and then all of a sudden when I put the batteries back on, the LED ceased to work. and that was the first time I got the circuit to work in a LONG time. I have switched out LM317's and everything. it just hates me for some reason. I seriously don't know what to do now. I am going to order new parts YET AGAIN, and if it doesn't work this time, it is no longer worth my time as it will obviously not work for me. I almost want to send the circuit to somebody here and have them tell me if it works for them. see if they can get it to work. I know I sound as if I have all the problems and such, but I promise you I'm not stupid and I seriously can't find the cause for this lol. I can try to put some pictures up, but I don't know how much that will help. also, is it possible that I have old solder covering the wires, preventing current from getting through? or does old solder work just like new solder? and if that is my problem, how do you clean wires of solder? __________________ I play track

03-07-2008, 03:46 PM	#293
steelybob Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 11 Rep Power: 0	Re: DIY Laser Torch i got the driver built last night and everything installed... just waiting on the batteries :'( . i did check everything that i could check without voltage and everything seems to be ok so far. i even went as far as testing it real quick with just a 3.0 volt battery to see if i even saw anything red come from the diode and it shined red... then i stopped. i just couldn't resist seeing if it even worked or not. tonight will be the true test if my batteries come and after they get charged/tested. pics to follow soon

03-07-2008, 04:31 PM	#294
ZANE Member Join Date: Mar 2008 Posts: 47 Rep Power: 0	Re: DIY Laser Torch Holy crap- Nice job!!

03-07-2008, 08:55 PM	#295
Abray Class 2M Laser Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 926 Rep Power: 6	Re: DIY Laser Torch how exactly do you check for continuity? my DMM explains it like this (and I don't get it): "Touch the test leads across the circuit you want to measure. 'shrt' appears and the buzzer sounds if the circuit resistance is less than about 50 ohms (meaning the circuit is continuous or shorted). 'open' appears and the meter's buzzer does not sound if the circuit resistance is greater than about 50 ohms (meaning the circuit is not continuous)." can somebody explain that? or tell me a better way to check it. and I don't think the problem is any unwanted connections. I have the circuit out and spread out, meaning I can see everything perfectly, and no wires are even close to touching __________________ I play track

03-09-2008, 12:11 AM	#296
steelybob Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 11 Rep Power: 0	Re: DIY Laser Torch SUCCESS! got my batteries in and charged and it was such a pain waiting too lol. i had my meredith unit together wrong (don't ask) but after i got it together correctly and a bit more filed off of it it focuses just perfectly and i have been lighting shit on fire all night hehe. i will get some pics soon but i am having too much fun popping balloons and messin with my neighbors dog ;D

03-09-2008, 09:07 PM	#298
robjdixon Class 3R Laser Join Date: Feb 2008 Location: Norfolk, Uk Posts: 2,263 Rep Power: 124	Re: DIY Laser Torch will the two resistors and lm317 do as a driver, or it it likely to go tits up? (I have a heatsink) __________________ BUY SOMETHING FROM KENOM NOW

03-10-2008, 02:08 AM	#300
steelybob Junior Member Join Date: Feb 2008 Posts: 11 Rep Power: 0	Re: DIY Laser Torch ok i have had this working for about a day or so now and my batteries died so i had to recharge them. they only lasted about a total of maybe 1 hour "on" time... does this seem short to anyone? maybe they are shit batteries but i recharged them and it is back to normal. voltage after charging is 3.8ish or so volts... sometime readings as high as 4.1 depending on how i hold the probe.

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