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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

DIY Laser Power Meter

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knimrod said:
[quote author=TheMonk link=1200112201/195#199 date=1203043224]Knimrod,

I got the thermo senor + board no DPM yet.
How do I power up the sensor and use my MultiMeter (2v with 1mV increment, 1mV=1mW) to measure Laser power?

thanks
TheMonk

Why not just build the board up and use your multimeter with the amp board until our DPM arrives?[/quote]
OK, now I understand the DIY board is to replace the existing board and the DPM is just a volt meter. :p

regards :D
 





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TheMonk said:
[quote author=knimrod link=1200112201/195#207 date=1203050801][quote author=TheMonk link=1200112201/195#199 date=1203043224]Knimrod,

I got the thermo senor + board no DPM yet.
How do I power up the sensor and use my MultiMeter (2v with 1mV increment, 1mV=1mW) to measure Laser power?

thanks
TheMonk

Why not just build the board up and use your multimeter with the amp board until our DPM arrives?[/quote]
OK, now I understand the DIY board is to replace the existing board and the DPM is just a volt meter.  :p

regards :D
[/quote]

yup! I cant wait.... this is gonna be so cool! oh and the pics on page 9 (or 10 cant remember) of one of the members boards using the coherent sensor attatchment, there s what looks like a 9mm diode on the back of a big block. is that the thermopile?

here is trhe pic:


PSconn1.jpg
 
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I have taken some pics. I don't think that I have enough posts to post a picture
My pics are 1600x1200 jpg's ranging from 770 kb to 1mb. What form should these
be in and would anyone be willing to post 1 external and 1 internal pic.
thanks,
dkelley
 
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dkelley said:
I have taken some pics. I don't think that I have enough posts to post a picture
My pics are 1600x1200 jpg's ranging from 770 kb to 1mb. What form should these
be in and would anyone be willing to post 1 external and 1 internal pic.
thanks,
dkelley

email me the pics you want put up..
 
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Here's dkelley's pictures.. Fantastic job! Very nice looking meter.
 

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okay, so I got my board toaday. I got the golden Thermopile connector off the board using a jet lighter torch (AKA wind resistant lighter) to heat it up and I pulled it out with pliers. I also damaged the PCB around it, the glue started to leak (the black stuff that holds the green layer on.

so, to use the provided connector thats on the coherent board, I use the middle pin as + TS, and one of the four outer pins as -TS? just making sure.

also, can I jsut get rid of the PCB on back of the head, I know in your first post you said its not needed, and is used for temperture controll and blah blah blah, but my question is the compnenets attatched to the head, are those of any importance? would it we bad if I damaged thelittle diode on back of the head, or the regulator thingy?

thanks,

amk

BTW, just my DPM and the PCB components are left ot GO! The item shipped yesterday, and I got it today! turns out I live very close to the seller or something...
 

roSSco

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You can remove the PCB on the back of the sensor. The diode that's pressed in the back does nothing. At least nothing we need to worry about. ;)
 
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roSSco said:
You can remove the PCB on the back of the sensor.  The diode that's pressed in the back does nothing.  At least nothing we need to worry about.  ;)

and am I right about how to mount the golden connector?
 
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amkdeath said:
[quote author=roSSco link=1200112201/210#214 date=1203122171]You can remove the PCB on the back of the sensor.  The diode that's pressed in the back does nothing.  At least nothing we need to worry about.  ;)

and am I right about how to mount the golden connector?[/quote]

You are correct. Cut off three of the four outside legs and file them level but not flush. I had to take a file to the remaining leg too so it would fit in the hole. I just took the corners off the square leg a little bit. When you fit it in, it should fit nice with a little space between the connector and the PCB.
 

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well, I started by cutting off 3 of the 4 outer pins. then, as I was slimming the 4th outer pin, I accidentally cut it off. I had a stub remaining, and I mamaged ot get that throught your hole on your PCB. I then quickly applied solder and it should be ok now. i suggest widening that TS- hole on your next batch of PCB's.

well, I got the first step done!
 

chimo

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knimrod, you can put me down for a batch 3 board as well. Do you have any spare LTC1050s you would like to sell? Cheers,

Paul
 
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chimo said:
knimrod, you can put me down for a batch 3 board as well.  Do you have any spare LTC1050s you would like to sell?  Cheers,

Paul

I got a spare one on my board, once I remove it, ill have 2 (I ordered one, and theres 1 on board). I only need 1. I could ell it to you...

regards,

amk
 
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chimo said:
knimrod, you can put me down for a batch 3 board as well.  Do you have any spare LTC1050s you would like to sell?  Cheers,

Paul

I got ya down for 3. I don't have any spare LTC1050s.. I've just been using the ones that come on the Coherent board. If you can't get get any locally or mail order from where your at, I can probably order some for you and send with the PCBs.
 

chimo

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Thanks amkdeath.

knimrod,
doh! I forgot about the one(s) that come on the board.  Are they soldered in or socketed?  Oh I just noticed that you have me down for 3, I actually meant teh 3rd group buy (batch 3) but you can keep me down for 2. Thanks,

Paul

knimrod said:
[quote author=chimo link=1200112201/210#218 date=1203134259]knimrod, you can put me down for a batch 3 board as well.  Do you have any spare LTC1050s you would like to sell?  Cheers,

Paul

I got ya down for 3.  I don't have any spare LTC1050s..   I've just been using the ones that come on the Coherent board.  If you can't get get any locally or mail order from where your at, I can probably order some for you and send with the PCBs.[/quote]
 
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chimo said:
doh! I forgot about the one(s) that come on the board.  Are they soldered in or socketed?  Oh I just noticed that you have me down for 3, I actually meant teh 3rd group buy (batch 3) but you can keep me down for 2.

Ooops.. Okay, 2 then.. :)

The LTC1050s on the Coherent board are soldered but fairly easy to remove just the same. I have a fancy desoldering tool but I suspect a heat gun will do the trick too.
 
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hey knimrod i may be in for one, i found lcd's for 4$ ill send you the link so you can tell me if it works?
 




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