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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

1xAA Blu-Ray WIP help

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May 6, 2008
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Well my host finally came today and it was a lot smaller than I expected! Anyway, came in good condition, no scratches and paint/ano looks great. THe lens and reflector is plastic, but the entire body is aluminum. The switch in the tail loose when I got it and as a result did not work, so that took a bit of tinkering to fix but now it works great. I never saw how bright the orginal LED was beacuse I fried it on a 9v battery  :-[ (dont ask). So anyway, im tearing it apart right now.
With LAva Drive, AA Li-Ion and Dollar for size
IMG_2037.jpg

Battery fits nicely in the first and second section
IMG_2044.jpg

Leaving the entire last section( less once screwed in and with battery contact ine. Its about .98 inches) for driver, module, and heat sinking
IMG_2047.jpg

Tried to get a shot of inside of the head
IMG_2050.jpg

IMG_2051.jpg

THeres a lip at the far end
IMG_2052.jpg


So, my first problem is how to get the battery contact to stick on the end of the second section as so...
clk002.jpg

Heres shot of the inside
IMG_2064.jpg

I dont know how to get it to stick without cutting off the negative connection to the body. Are there any conductive glues? Maybe just try two small drops of super glue? Or should I try and mount it on the inside of the head(third section)?
 





woop

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Nov 9, 2007
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how are you going to secure the aixiz module in the head? machine a ring to fit?
that battery contact board, does it fit inside the head section? if it doesn't then when you screw the head on, it should get wedged up against the body, no glue required. otherwise if you have the body of the laser in contact with the case, it doesn't matter if the battery contact is touching the case, because the circuit will be grounded through the laser body. so you can just glue it and only use that board for the positive connection.

i have one of these flashlights on the way from DX, it looks like a decent body.
 
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Thanks. Ill just glue it to the body and make the connection somehwere else.
Next question, where do you guys get your aluminum parts to make heatsinks? I went to home depot, they had practically nothing, so I got something that was stainless steel. Just did a little research and foudnt hat the thermal conductivity of aluminum is ridiculously higher than steel, so I wont be using that. Is lowes any better, or will I have to find a hardware store?
 

daguin

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Maelstrom said:
Thanks. Ill just glue it to the body and make the connection somehwere else.
Next question, where do you guys get your aluminum parts to make heatsinks? I went to home depot, they had practically nothing, so I got something that was stainless steel. Just did a little research and foudnt hat the thermal conductivity of aluminum is ridiculously higher than steel, so I wont be using that. Is lowes any better, or will I have to find a hardware store?

Look for a "scrap metal" supplier in your area.

Peace,
dave
 
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Would they have aluminum spacers or rods, or just aluminum pieces? Closest one is quite far away...
 

daguin

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Maelstrom said:
Would they have aluminum spacers or rods, or just aluminum pieces? Closest one is quite far away...

Mine has rods, blocks, sheets, tubes, whatever is scrapped. The inventory changes depending on what has been sold to or bought by them. Some trips are more fruitful than others.

Peace,
dave
 

daguin

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Maelstrom said:
Thanks. Do you think I could use the steel or should I jsut use aluminum?

I think that you should go with silver. However, I understand that is probably a bit pricey (it is to pricey for me). ;)

Aluminum is a much better heat sink than steel. It is also much easier to work with. Rarely does a piece conform to our needs exactly. It will need some sort of alteration. Aluminum is softer.

Peace,
dave
 

Scog

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Silver? pfft. If you really care about heat conductivity only diamond will do. :p
 




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