- Joined
- Jan 26, 2010
- Messages
- 573
- Points
- 18
They aren't the best but they are very cheap.
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I never thought Rayfoss had ever been "On the top of the Hill" to begin with. A large number of their satisfied customers here at LPF seem to be the ones that also don't own an LPM..
That's very true. It seems a lot of the reviews of rayfoss lasers you see are newer member just getting into the hobby, and without an LPM they just judge by the beam.I never thought Rayfoss had ever been "On the top of the Hill" to begin with. A large number of their satisfied customers here at LPF seem to be the ones that also don't own an LPM..
I meter every laser I own (including over a dozen from Rayfoss) and every one has been up-to or overspec. (see attached pics of 20mW keychain and 100mW-FLX)A large number of their satisfied customers here at LPF seem to be the ones that also don't own an LPM..
I have this laser. It is most likely the tail-switch. Just make contact from the battery to the sides with a piece of metal to test. If the laser turns on, it is the switch. This same thing happend to my Bluray waterproof (same host-design), and she is sending me a new switch assembly for it.Although i dont think the diode blew, i think it was the drive.
Hmm,... tinfoil? maybe, not sure it would conduct as well as a more dense metal. I would use a pair of steel tweezers, or a paperclip. You are just trying to make contact between the battery and the housing. Remember. The RF660-200mW-FBT is Case-Negative. the (-) side of the battery should be at the tail, and the (+) on the spring inside.Thanks ash. Ill try that when i get home. Just to clarify. I could use tinfoil right? I mean in theory even if i can get it to blink it should be the tailcap right?