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Old 10-22-2010, 12:46 AM #17
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

Quote:
Originally Posted by RA_pierce View Post
If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

It looks like it can be repaired, though. Now that it is broke.

BTW, you can't possibly "fix the rectangle beam" without additional optics.
The best you can get is a smaller rectangle or "bar."
The rectangular or bar-line output profile is due to the emitter's construction.
Or in this case: If it ain't broke, fix it till it is.

and yes, it looks like you soldered the wires on backwards.

The driver is going to be on the other end of those wires. It's a small circuit board which regulates the current going into the diode.

Don't quote me, but it still may be okay.....I'm not sure if reverse polarity destroys a diode or not.
Fix the wires and see if it powers up. If it doesn't i recommend you send it to someone on the forum for repair. You'll probably need a new diode.



Last edited by Mohrenberg; 10-22-2010 at 12:53 AM.
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Old 10-22-2010, 12:59 AM #18
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toaster View Post
It is the current regulating chip in the host that connects to the diode.

It also looks like you hooked the diode up backwards which mean your probably roasted it.
If you are referring to the pins, that looks like a mixture of..

* Alcohol pad cotton (tried to clean the area, but stupid ol' me failed to realize the material would stick to the wire)
* Plastic (from the red triangle thing)
* Plastic (from the wires -- not the shrinktube).

When the device is locked, either there is no current going to the positive and negative wires, or there is a very small ~3mW current. Originally I got the wires backwards (positive-to-negative and negative-to-positive, and quickly realized I got the pins wrong to which I quickly turned it off and went to google up a laser diode pin diagram). The device was only in this incorrect solder for about 7 to 15 seconds tops; I don't remember if I ever switched it to max power or not. But I corrected the soldering (pos-pos and neg-neg) and it the laser worked. (This is the first solder successful attempt I mentioned earlier.)

But I think it's still possible I might have fried the diode like that.

EDIT: And yes, if you have to ask, I was aware and careful of the heat the solder might send through the circuitry/wires. I tried my best to minimize iron contact time.. but you must remember, I'm n00b. Sure, I have replaced capacitors in LCDs (soldering involved), but that's just very basic and easy (and more than likely isn't as sensitive).

EDIT2: It takes 11.25 to ~11.3 revolutions of screwing the housing back in. Just mentioning this so I can look it up later as necessary.

EDIT3: 9.25 to ~9.3 revolutions for the external, user-changeable lens. The inner lens is glued from the outside to the housing, and I won't even bother or try to unscrew that. Might need to keep things as original-looking as possible. :X

Last edited by BlueToast; 10-22-2010 at 02:21 AM.
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Old 10-22-2010, 02:55 AM #19
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

Well for electronics it takes less than 7 seconds. I meant roasted the diode; not the plastic.

It seems like you are screwing with it and you have no clue what you are doing. Set it aside and figure somethings out before you continue to tool it.
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:11 AM #20
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

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Well for electronics it takes less than 7 seconds. I meant roasted the diode; not the plastic.
That's what I meant too. The diode. Plastic is just plastic (no volatile function), but the diode is something else (actually does something).

Quote:
Originally Posted by Toaster View Post
It seems like you are screwing with it and you have no clue what you are doing. Set it aside and figure somethings out before you continue to tool it.
Ever since not being able to get a circuit loop (via beep), I've practically given up. The only thing now is to consider options such as the many private messages I've received about selling the device to them, possibly giving WickedLasers RMA a try, ...

An RMA has already been submitted as of yesterday -- just waiting for a human reply back or an 'RMA Accepted' thing. Then it's shipping it in and waiting who knows how long before finding out whether they accept or reject the device for repair/replacement based on the conditions of the device. And if that fails, I have very few options left. ;o

Last edited by BlueToast; 10-22-2010 at 03:14 AM.
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Old 10-22-2010, 03:41 AM #21
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

...I would send it to someone on the forum for repair.....

See if DTR wants to play with it

He just got a new casio projector so if you need a diode replaced, he has 23 of them on hand lol
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:24 AM #22
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

Yeah, I am not thinking you know what you are talking about. And what you are saying doesn't make sense most of the time.... :/ Don't blow something else up and send it to someone that knows what up.

Good luck.
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:31 AM #23
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

Damn... the wires broke off the diode when he unscrewed the lens cap because those components look to be stuck together. Doesn't he just need to resolder the wires to the diode?

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Old 10-22-2010, 04:37 AM #24
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

Aha. No lol

He soldered them on backwards so he might have fried it.
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:37 AM #25
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

Quote:
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Yeah, I am not thinking you know what you are talking about. And what you are saying doesn't make sense most of the time.... :/ Don't blow something else up and send it to someone that knows what up.

Good luck.
Meh, you're probably right. The reason I showed those pictures of "no contact" versus "contact" was just to eliminate any potential and possible confusion and lay things down.

I am good with IT related work, not electrical engineering or anything of that sort (I just know a few basics to those and that's it). I do not know anything about lasers and their components. ;\
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:40 AM #26
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

Then try to read about it.
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:41 AM #27
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

If you send it back, which you'll have to pay, when they see you screwed with it, they'll make you pay to send it back to you again.

You have 2 options.

1. Do what I told you and send it to Dave. He has already fixed 5 or 6 of them. If you keep screwing with it, its going to cost you more to fix it.

2. Sell it.

I know I offered to buy it, but I didnt realize it was a G2. So I'll pass. You shouldnt take under $150 as it sits now. Burn the driver out and you'll be lucky to get $100.

Good luck
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:43 AM #28
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

I agree with TJ, send it to Dave unless you have plans to gut it and/or rebuild it.
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Old 10-22-2010, 04:49 AM #29
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

aw man!
your luck is very similar to mine -- I almost always open my electronics the moment I get them, hoping the improve the,.. then, well..... :C
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Old 10-22-2010, 05:01 AM #30
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

Sorry, but I am lacking sympathy. You shouldn't open it unless you know what you are doing.
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Old 10-22-2010, 05:04 AM #31
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

I know better. I don't screw with electronics, and it doesn't screw with me. If its mechanical, I can take it down to the last screw, and put all back together again. Often improving it along the way.
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Old 10-22-2010, 05:12 AM #32
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Default Re: Spyder S3 Arctic - Broken wiring :(

@TJ I looked at your signature's thing...
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32 Reasons not to buy a Wicked Lasers Arctic,
Cancel Your Order, and Get a Refund ...> Click <
I'm very disappointed in myself.
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