In case anyone wants a pic of the collimator and TEC that Chris is selling:
http://jwc.mit.edu/t/teccol.jpg
http://jwc.mit.edu/t/teccol.jpg
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Heruursciences diode grab bag thread
- Thread starter MarioMaster
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Is that a multi-mode comlinator?
Rob
Rob
T_Warne
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@ Jake the Snake
Measured in inches.. the base (hot side) is about 0.736 X 0.587 and the top (cold side) is about 0.587 X 0.589. Or about the size of a Nickle and Dime respectively.
@ Robjdixon
Yes, that s the multimode primary collimator lens set sold for $25.
Measured in inches.. the base (hot side) is about 0.736 X 0.587 and the top (cold side) is about 0.587 X 0.589. Or about the size of a Nickle and Dime respectively.
@ Robjdixon
Yes, that s the multimode primary collimator lens set sold for $25.
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Does a diode mount directly to the collimator? Is it THAT easy? lol
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The diode needs a heat sink and a piece of aluminum L rail to use this lens assembly
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So you mount the diode on aluminium, and put that in front?
Is there any easy way to adjust the focusing, or would one have to make something so you can move the whoel colminator unit?
Is there any easy way to adjust the focusing, or would one have to make something so you can move the whoel colminator unit?
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Hey do you happen to have the Vmax/Imax or other ratings for these tecs? I need to know how hard I can run these before I really crank up the diode current on my TO-3 diode.
.3lite
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TEC's need to be powered at 12-15V and depending current from what they need to chill (for example my TEC using only to chill clear radiator, from +12V gets 4A)
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please do not tell people this - these tecs are very small and operate on lower voltages than conventional 40mm + units
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I found it is best to put your TEC and LD in series if you don't need precision wavelength control. The TEC voltage drop is about 2.3V and I operating is 1 to 2.5A
.3lite
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I see, didn't know that, I'm sorry ; )
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What is the highest power 9mm diode anyone has gotten from the grab bags?
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EDIT: I went home and double-checked, and the multimode collimators don't fit the TO-3 package. Based on the pics, I guessed they would, but I was incorrect..
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Morgan
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I recently received my 9mm Grab Bag and Surprise Box, (some have seen and helped fire up the lovely HeNe tube I got, so thanks for that...).
I got one of those collimators too, (see post 5 or so above), so would be keen to see more posts regarding use.
Most of the diodes seem to be IR, (one red). Bit hazy on figures as I'm getting used to interpretting my new bench power supply but some are still getting brighter well above 2A. Does this seem plausible? Also, whilst I wait for my IR detector card, I'm using a video cam to detect IR. This is a pretty reliable way to, "SEE", IR but does anyone know if the sensitivity reduces as the wavelength goes beyond 808nm? The reason I ask is that some of the diodes respond, (and heat up), as if lasing but no light can be seen. Are these the duds?
Thanks all.
M
I got one of those collimators too, (see post 5 or so above), so would be keen to see more posts regarding use.
Most of the diodes seem to be IR, (one red). Bit hazy on figures as I'm getting used to interpretting my new bench power supply but some are still getting brighter well above 2A. Does this seem plausible? Also, whilst I wait for my IR detector card, I'm using a video cam to detect IR. This is a pretty reliable way to, "SEE", IR but does anyone know if the sensitivity reduces as the wavelength goes beyond 808nm? The reason I ask is that some of the diodes respond, (and heat up), as if lasing but no light can be seen. Are these the duds?
Thanks all.
M
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Krutz
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hi morgan,
cams (with no extra IR filter) should see IR pretty far. 1064 isnt a problem, 1500 (which seems to be the upper limit of what to expect in the grabbags) should be visible, at least somewhat? i didnt test that yet.
to be on the safe(r) side: get an inexpensive webcam, preferably an older one. open it up, and remove the clear (yellowish) ir-filter. its perfectly flat. if you cat find anything like that, the filter is a coating on the lens, and you would have to replace the lens with an uncoated lens, which wouldnt be worth the effort mostly.
so your diode doesnt show anything on your cam? the only really reliable (and somewhat affordable) way to be sure is to use a thermal powermeter. it measures the energy as heat, the wavelength doesnt matter at all. powermeasurement goes up in the (multi-) watts range with one setup.
oh, and with several amps going in, and so several watts going out, you do have good and certified googles?
before anything: what do you plan with the diodes? if you only need the 808 ones, or just need the strongest 2 for example, your testing procedure may be much faster and, uhm, abrasive ;-)
manuel
cams (with no extra IR filter) should see IR pretty far. 1064 isnt a problem, 1500 (which seems to be the upper limit of what to expect in the grabbags) should be visible, at least somewhat? i didnt test that yet.
to be on the safe(r) side: get an inexpensive webcam, preferably an older one. open it up, and remove the clear (yellowish) ir-filter. its perfectly flat. if you cat find anything like that, the filter is a coating on the lens, and you would have to replace the lens with an uncoated lens, which wouldnt be worth the effort mostly.
so your diode doesnt show anything on your cam? the only really reliable (and somewhat affordable) way to be sure is to use a thermal powermeter. it measures the energy as heat, the wavelength doesnt matter at all. powermeasurement goes up in the (multi-) watts range with one setup.
oh, and with several amps going in, and so several watts going out, you do have good and certified googles?
before anything: what do you plan with the diodes? if you only need the 808 ones, or just need the strongest 2 for example, your testing procedure may be much faster and, uhm, abrasive ;-)
manuel
