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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Going to finally attempt RG=Y

qumefox

qumefox

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A good epoxy would be more robust. Hot glue always has the danger of softening, and never gets extremely 'rigid' even when cool.
 





mfo

mfo

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Also, I'm going ghetto. I'm going to use legos to hold the optics and the modules.
 
hakzaw1

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I spray paint my leggos flat black in hopes they will not be recognized. lol
 
hakzaw1

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theres a guy on youtube (NOT KlipKlay!) who has several 'laser toys' like spiro etc and he uses Leggos proudly. I get mine for free and they come in dozens of sizes and shapes ez to work with and swapping out parts is a snap. the bottom of my six pointer lumia wheel is all leggos- you can glue them together for a more permanent set-up.
 
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Cyparagon

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mfo said:
Thanks, but no thanks. That's pretty expensive considering it's not even a true yellow.
Click to expand...

I'm not saying you should buy it (I wouldn't either). Mister hak requested it: "Please let us know via a post in this thread if you find any pen lasers or handheld containing two wavelengths."


 
mfo

mfo

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Cyparagon said:
I'm not saying you should buy it (I wouldn't either). Mister hak requested it: "Please let us know via a post in this thread if you find any pen lasers or handheld containing two wavelengths."
Click to expand...

Sorry, I missed that one. :p
 
hakzaw1

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Plan B said:
I've read countless times on this forum that a good place to start when mixing yellow is 4 to 1 mW, red to green. I see above that both Leo and Meat recommend 5-6 to 1 mW ratio. In his review of the CNI PGL-RG 150mW ohada recorded 145 mW green to 30 red for a ratio of about 4.8 to 1. From the pics he posted I would say it made for a nice colored yellow.

Is there a formula to calculate perceived frequency? Say you take two or more lasers of known mw and nm and assume perfect alignment and beam characteristics, can you then calculate the apparent frequency of the combined light? I know your not actually producing 589 nm light but can you calculate that it would look like 589 nm.

MFO, I've seen some very cool DIY optic mounts on this site that look pretty simple to make. A drill, a dremmel, some L bracket, small bolts and springs is about all it would take I think. It would probably be tricky to mount small optics harvested from a sled though. If space restrictions are an issue you might be better off to buy. You can also buy mountable labby style heatsinks for the modules. I'm not sure how you could DIY those effectively.
Click to expand...



BUMP TO get new posts and revive what should be something anyone would enjoy making- just one dichro and two simple mini labs and you have an all new color.

Plan B ^^^ I think you have a typo

" ohada recorded 145 mW green to 30 red for a ratio of about 4.8 to 1. F"

dont you mean 30mW of 532 and 145 mWs of red??

Since lumia is making a big comeback having , even crudely mixed yellow-magenta-teal etc really makes the lumia mo better. Same thing with Spiro efx and tunnel/Liq.sky
 
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qumefox

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Color mixing (especially in a relatively small handheld) is still something I plan to tackle eventually. I'm just low on both time and money right now.
 
hakzaw1

hakzaw1

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mfo said:
Thanks, but no thanks. That's pretty expensive considering it's not even a true yellow. I'd much rather attempt to do this myself for a fraction of the cost. With that being said...

I received my green module today from modwerx (thanks andrew @ modwerx.com). Now, all that's left to do as far as powering these goes is the driver for my SmOC. I have one inside of a custom aixiz module made by sightfx.

So, which driver should I use to power this? To power this build, I was going to use (3) NiMH AA batteries. This should give me roughly 3.6-3.8 volts. I want to use an adjustable driver for this build for the red diode, so that I can make the beam more orange or lime, depending on how I feel when I'm using it. I was thinking of using a flex drive. I see I can set the current range between 108~412mA using this driver. My question is, can I toggle the drivers output while the laser is on? Probably not the best of ideas, I remember the flexdrives pot being ridiculously sensitive last time I attempted to set a current.

Do you guys have any recommendations to help me out with this?

Also, to glue the dichro in place, hot glue gun ftw?
Click to expand...


Funny thing
at lasershows they often sell plastic diff grate glasses- laser glasses-
if the show is using a yellow made bt R+G the glasses seperates the yellow to R & G thru the glasses-

Pic on left sunclan(old) 300mW Magenta ( peaks at ~200mW-ave. 150mW)
on right- coherant silicom optics used as diff grating
afaik LOC and Phr see other pics for the insides.

note new Sunclan website looks like new owner. mine was ebaayed. 51$
 

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A

anselm

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hakzaw said:
.... lumina...
Since lumina is making a big comeback having , even crudely mixed yellow-magenta-teal etc really makes the lumina mo better.
....LUMINA....
...LUMINA....
Click to expand...

Sorry hak, I just couldn't help it. I restrained myself hard on many occasions, but
no the time has come for this:
"That word, you keep using it....."
182625-trial_0.gif

It's called lumia. LUMIA. L-U-M-I-A. no "N" to found anywhere near that word.:na:

Have a nice day.:)
 
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hakzaw1

hakzaw1

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I did that on porpoise.

just to see if youse guys are on yer toes.

I know that spilled right as its is on the side of my dadgum chevy!!
 
hakzaw1

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My Lumina has four donut spares on it- I get em real cheep.
 
hakzaw1

hakzaw1

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Illuminia-latin for laser thru pretty glass.

shortened to luminia
they later was shortened to lumina

followed a few years later to lumia.


Im sticking to that story-


Its been(Mis) spelled that way on lpf by many more than me. I think it does sound better,
If you search-----
PHD- Vets
- oh yea-
i only did it a few dozen times. - my bad.
hak

*********** Back on topic*

another thread about use of parts for beam combining experiments-

just for fun w/o $$.

http://laserpointerforums.com/f49/14-projector-optics-place-63791.html
 
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Cyparagon

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I suppose you think we should state wavelength in Ångströms and power in Gillettes, too. :na:
 
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