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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

Selling my first Red laser build

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Mar 4, 2010
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I've decided to see what type of offers I could get for my first Red Laser pointer build.

This was built from a 50mW green Focal Price unit that never worked. I've gutted the unit and put in a Red Open Can diode from a 20X HP DVD-RW unit. The diode is in an AixiZ module, I think the lens is glass, it's whatever comes with the AixiZ units from HighTechDealz.com You can remove the outer lens cover and focus the laser, then replace the outer lens cover.

This is the "host" from FocalPrice. It's nice and heavy in the hand, has a click switch on the bottom.
http://www.focalprice.com/LP114B/50mW_532nm_Green_Laser_Pointer_Black.html

There is NO DRIVER!! This unit is running directly off the 18650 battery that's currently putting out 3.8V. I've NEVER ran the diode on anything over 3.8V.

Understand, this is my FIRST ever build, so there are some nicks in the heat sink from a vise, there is actual use of hot glue to hold a spring in place (I'm sure some of you will hate on me for that).

I have no way to see exactly what mW this unit is putting out, but it burns electrical tape instantly and I've been about 10-15 feet away and it's done the same. It'll light fireworks, pop balloons and melt anything dark. It has probably 30-45 minutes total on the diode, with 20-35 second duty cycles.

I'll include 2 18650 2400mAh cells as well.
 

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JLSE

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Is there no resistor, polarity protection or cap on the LD? I dont think any members are going to buy this knowing that the LD can go at any moment.

Have you measured how much current the LD is drawing? It can give you a possible ballpark on mW, granted there has been no damage to the LD.
 
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Yes if you can get the current that the diode is eating , I can give you a ball park figure on the PO.
so because you said you used hot melt to hold the spring I take it that means it's not soldered at all ? how dose the current get through it to power the diode ? is it only sitting on the ckt brd to made contact ? that would not be good as inductance from the wire could even kill the diode if there are more than a few inches of wire in there.
 
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Flamin, give me a little more credit than that! :) Both the positive and the negative terminals are soldered. The positive is solderd to the spring board which is HELD IN PLACE by hot glue. The negative terminal is soldered to the casing, that solder joint has hot glue over it, to keep it from possibly coming un done while taking the unit apart. None of the actual connections are done with hot glue.

How can I check the current the diode is using? I have a full digital multi-meter that can do everything and some.

If anybody wants to donate or trade me a driver, I'll be more than happy to put it in this bad boy.
 
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Is there no resistor, polarity protection or cap on the LD? I dont think any members are going to buy this knowing that the LD can go at any moment.

Have you measured how much current the LD is drawing? It can give you a possible ballpark on mW, granted there has been no damage to the LD.

LD's can go at any moment in any unit, regardless of what protection you may have in place. Yes, I agree mine would be more likely to go quicker, just stating, it's always a possibility with this hobby.

Thanks for the tips!
 

JLSE

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LD's can go at any moment in any unit, regardless of what protection you may have in place. Yes, I agree mine would be more likely to go quicker, just stating, it's always a possibility with this hobby.

Thanks for the tips!


LD's usually burn out when there is a problem in how they are driven....

Back to the original question, do you have at least a resistor in it?

Thought 18650's were rated at 2200mah, if no resistors, by what miracle is that thing still running on?
 
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I have 3 different sets of 18650's at the moment, 2200mAh, 2400mAh and 2600mAh. Flamin just bought some 2600mAh from me last week.

No, there is no resistor. It's just a sweet ass diode? :)
 




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