RGV Adjustable Sled Mount Heat Sinks - Feeler

Definitely this idea from sightfx would sell. I think...

Smaller the better with decent heatsinking, ability to rotate the diodes, and easy replacement are key for me. I'm ready to buy!

I'm just waiting for sightfx to finish his version 3 design. (He said that he was going to be talking to you by the way)

Anyway, this is the greatest idea from rog8811, and now with this kind of thing, that will hopefully become readily available, it could become a fairly easy build!
Jay

I agree with small but I don't think you realy need an adjustable rotation. From what I am seeing it is a constant orientation to hit the proper polarity on the cube. With that said it is your option to get 3 of the set screw types but the heat transfer will not be as good.

Here are some pics of version 3. It is still in the rough stages but it is much smaller.





Adjustments will be made by 3 set screws. Size is the advantage here but heat sinking will take the cost for that. Heat Sink Grease can be use though to mimimize the trade. To ensure the adjustments pivote correctly there will need to be either a module sized spring pushing from the back or a lens cap holding the back of the module center so that the adjustments pivote and not strafe. The look will not be as cool but the cost will most likely be good as these are easier to make.


Cheers,

Ryan

Darkarmyofone said:

omg, cant WAIT for beam shots.

hell, if you AND jayrob are workin on this beast together.... it'l be done in no time at all i bet.

if at all possible, you should definately take a beam shot with the top part of the sled OPEN so we can see all the beams combining and whatnot. i think thats the only thing i didnt get to see on jayrobs pocket build, and it interests the hell out of me!

i may very well invest in one of these.

now i just want to verify, this is a PHR sled correct? or are you still using the PS3 sled?

Click to expand...

Bad news...I broke the positive pin on my Red. I was setting up for some beam shots last night when it happened. I will get another diode as soon as I can and post some beamers. I have the sled closed up though and not in a way that I want to open again unless I have too. The dichro/Turning mirror is poking out though so the color will show when looking at the box. I may be willing to open it back up again though. Let me think on it when I get another red to put in there.


Thanks,

Ryan

Version 3 is quite a change!

I was thinking the same look and design as your others, but just a drilled out center to fit an AixiZ module with a single set screw. (like the green one) And everything else the same...

Can you make me a set like that? Maybe a version 2 size or as small as it can be, but just with a 15/32 hole in the center. I can put my own set screw to hold the module. As long as there is about 4mm thickness in the wall at one area...
Jay

Sure. That is an option with Version 2.


-Ryan

Done deal then! That's the ticket for me.

Hope to hear from you soon...
Jay

Jay,

The greenies I harvest from DX pointers are the same dia. as Aixiz. Is that the same for O-like Modules?


Thanks,

Ryan

Yes... The O-like modules are very close to the exact same size as an AixiZ module. But a couple thousandth's larger. If I drill a 15/32 hole with my lathe, the AixiZ module will slide in. Sometimes tight.

But the O-like module will not slide in until I use some emery (I use 120 grit) wrapped around something to sand the inside of the hole for maybe 10 seconds or so while spinning in the lathe...
Jay

P.S. While we're on the subject of O-like modules, I have some information to share...

I have one of their 50mW modules that was overpowered at 75mW's using an RCR123 rechargeable...

I have taken off the stock driver, and have experimented with a DDL driver. I built this DDL driver with a 1/2 watt pot. I am powering the DDL driver with 2 X 3.6 volt RCR123's.

I tested the driver with a 'red test load' and set it at 340mA's. Then I connected it to my O-like module (diode case positive) and measured 35mW's steady. (driver still putting out 340mA's with the O-like module connected)

So I will be using this adjustable DDL set up for my Green. I should be able to turn it down to what ever is the best color blend needed to match the GGW 6X/LPC Red for my upcoming build using your awesome adjustable mounts!

Nice Jay,

I ordered this rgb driver from Norm with TTL or analog modulation:
RGB TRIPLE LASER DIODE DRIVER w/TTL-Analog Mod DIY KIT


Price was a bit high maybe but not too bad. I will have to shave the edges to fit it in the box but I like the idea of the drivers being on one board and of course the analog modulation means that I can keep all the lasers set to there full potential and calibrate them with the input signal levels. I of course am not making a pointer here but even if I did I would like to do something similar and be able to provide more than 7 colors. Even with a standard DDL you could add a resistor in series to your pot that would reduce the current to some determined level set up 3 extra spdt switches to bypass the extra resistors and apply power for each color when you want them to have full current. spst switches to just apply the power when you wanted less of that color. This would give you 37 colors I do believe. Just a thought. With this driver and a sound card DAC I will have 8bit or 16million colors. Just waiting on the mail.


Cheers,

Ryan

Wow...

I'm still in 7 color mode, but that is very interesting. Please keep us updated on that!

I won't know until I get them all going in my second one, but I'm guessing that no more than 20 or 30mW's of green will be needed for a 400mW white beam. Especially with much more green getting through the PHR turning mirror vs the PS3 mirror...

Hmmm... I wonder if you can just multiply the power of the blend that worked already. For instance, I know that 4 or 5mW's of green blends very well with 26mW's of red. To make a nice yellow.

So I wonder if just multiplying the powers would yield the same blend? Can't wait to find out!
Jay

adjusting current

I have found no need to remove driver from the green modules. I just put a pot inbetween the driver and battery. You do need like a 10ohm pot because with a 100ohm pot you can only adjust the out put with the last 10% of the turn. I did find one on digi-key. I know the output will vary with battery output when you are using pot but this is an easy way to adjust output roughly by eye. I don't know if this will work for my flex-drive but I will try. If you have any suggestions let me know.

I would think that Red and blue would stay on a constant ratio but Green will be something less because of our peek sensitivity to it. I may be wrong but I would think that green will scale at half the rate or less. It will be interesting to find the answer.

MISTERWILLING said:

I have found no need to remove driver from the green modules. I just put a pot inbetween the driver and battery. You do need like a 10ohm pot because with a 100ohm pot you can only adjust the out put with the last 10% of the turn. I did find one on digi-key. I know the output will vary with battery output when you are using pot but this is an easy way to adjust output roughly by eye. I don't know if this will work for my flex-drive but I will try. If you have any suggestions let me know.

Click to expand...

I know that with a FlexDrive, I don't think it will work...

Just guessing because the driver will regulate the set current even if the supplied voltage gets as low as 2.5 volts.

Hmmm... but can the pot restrict the current?? Not sure about that idea.

But for sure, sticking to what we do know, you can just re-adjust the current on the FlexDrive if it is too much or too less.

I like the DDL set up with the green module, because it will regulate the current, and stay the same as the batteries drain. Until they finally get below 6 volts or so.

I think that with green, it is going to be most important to have as steady power as possible, because it is the most visible, and will make the most difference in the color blend.

Let's all keep good notes...
I'm hoping to get a record of what powers work for a good color blend.

So far, measuring power after sled optics:

* Red - 26mW
* Blu-ray - 20mW
* Green - 4mw
* White - 50mW

This combination is pretty good for color blend. Red is a little strong, but not by much.

I am going to try for my next one, to multiply the above numbers by 8. Giving: (after sled optics)

* Red - 208mW
* Blu-ray - 160mW
* Green - 32mW
* White - 400mW

So I will keep you updated to let you know if this works out. But everyone experimenting with this, please keep good records and share!

I am waiting on my custom adjustable mounts from sightfx, but that may be a couple of weeks huh Ryan?...
Jay

Flex Drive

Well I am using a 18650 to power my green so I don't think I will have problems with the battery draining and the current fluxuating while using my pot inbetween battery method.
I hear what you are saying about the flex, it will compensate current for the resistance. So it would be hard to change the current.
What about a pot in between the diode and the and the flex driver? I know this isn't the most practical but I want to keep with my plan of using 1 18650 to power each laser. I may have to switch back to a DDL driver and 2x cr123 3.0v for the red and 2x cr123 3.7v blu-ray if you don't think that a pot in between flex driver and diode.

That sounds like it should work!

I have never experimented with it though... Perhaps somebody else can chime in on that. I'm sure Dr. Lava would be able to answer that question...
Jay

Hmm arn't the o-like module pots movable?

I think it would be a hit if you sold the sets of three with a modded sled for your sled mount heatsinks!