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FrozenGate by Avery

FS: ***Selectable test load up to 3A (assembled or DIY kit)*** IN STOCK!

flucero28 said:
If you still have the one left I need one please.....
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They are back in stock! Sorry, should have updated the thread sooner. Did you need a kit or an assembled test load?

cheech226 said:
these are well worth the price for such a versatile test tool.
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:thanks:

ginhev123 said:
Is this like a universal test load that works for all drivers, whether it's for a red laser, violet, blue etc.?
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Yes, pretty much these work for all drivers and laser diodes or LEDs you want to simulate the voltage for.
 





Are you sold out of these? I tried the Google link and it says so.

I was going to make one of these myself, but your board layout looks so nice. :)

I'm probably going to substitute some 1N5822's for your 1N5404's. Schottky Barrier diodes drop about half the voltage, so it will take twice as many for the same color. i.e. Red=6, Blue=8; Bluray=N/A (no room for 12).

I'll lose the Bluray feature but with the same current spread across 2X the diodes, less heat build-up problems. In theory anyway...

So even if you just have some empty boards I can make that work.

Thanks.
 
No they're in stock! Hmm it should be working now, I must have edited the inventory wrong.

You could also epoxy a heat sink on top of the diodes using some Arctic Alumina to dissipate the heat away.
 
It works now; thanks for fixing that. I just ordered a DIY kit.

I thought about using some arctic silver adhesive; I've used that before on other projects. But, if I stick a nice heat sink on there and one diode quits on me, I'll likely have to replace them all. (That heat sink glue is like silver epoxy lol). I'll see how my idea works out; if nothing else I'll have 10 standard diodes to replace them with.
 
No problem! These diodes are pretty robust and should handle well under normal conditions, unless you run them continuously for too long. Adding the heat sink would increase their run time and longevity. Let me know how it works out for you :beer:
 
Krusher said:
It works now; thanks for fixing that. I just ordered a DIY kit.

I thought about using some arctic silver adhesive; I've used that before on other projects. But, if I stick a nice heat sink on there and one diode quits on me, I'll likely have to replace them all. (That heat sink glue is like silver epoxy lol). I'll see how my idea works out; if nothing else I'll have 10 standard diodes to replace them with.
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An old superclocking trick back a few years was to mix some Arctic Silver/alumina in with the epoxy if you wanted a less 'permanant' bond.
 
Ok, I'm wanting to try and understand exactly how to use this. Are here instructions included with it? Thx!
 
It's pretty simple. Just put the jumper pin on the number of diodes needed. Place the driver leads where it goes. Attach the multimeter or voltmeter across the resistor and set it to read in VDC. Add the batteries to the driver and the readings on the multimeter or voltmeter are equivalent to the mA putting out by the driver. 1mV = 1mA

On my site there's a tutorial on how to build it, I'm about to put up a section on how to use it.
 
Jufran, just wanted to let you know that I got my test load last week. Very quick shipping! Also after about 10 mins I had it all together. This is an awesome kit, works perfect and looks great, for the price it's a real bargain! Thanks again.

Frank
 
Has anybody actually measure the voltage drop across the diodes at various loads ? It is not very critically important but I want to know exactly. :)
 
@flucero28:
Awesome! I'm glad it you like it. :beer:

@blord:
Hmm, were you looking for something like this:
111tv03.png
 
@cilegray, that sounds like a neat trick. Do you have any suggestions like 10% compound to 90% adhesive, etc? Difficult to remove is OK, but their adhesive is more like epoxy right now.

I finished my assembly today with the Schottky Barrier diodes, and @1.8A the 1N5404's pretty much match that chart above @0.81V measured. My 1N5822's were 0.39V; so it takes twice as many diodes and the heat is more spread-out. (But you lose the ability to test Blu-Ray diodes). They eventually get hot without a heat sink anyway, but water boils on the resistor long before I can get it to evaporate on the diodes. For me; I'm fine without a heat sink for non-continuous testing. I also soldered all of the hot components (diodes and resistor) slightly off the board so it doesn't cook it as much.

@ Jufran88--it works out great but I had one suggestion if possible. Make the through holes a little bigger for the diodes, resistor, and load terminals. Right now, they all fit tight.

I used to be a tech for Marquette electronics (6 months fixing Medical boards) and I never had a board where the component's leads fit snugly...you want a little space for soldering and de-soldering with a solder sucker. (There should be some space between the wires and the hole for a vacuum to pull the solder out).

Anyway, it's a great little board for the money and you might want to put something in the pro section so you get more visibility.

Happy soldering!
 
Their adhesive IS epoxy...

I remember using it in about 60% adhesive to 40% Arctic Silver 2 (that's about 10 years ago) with good results... when I went to take it off it peeled off like a rubber-based adhesive would.
 
Ok, I think of epoxy as being much stronger than adhesive--typically. But it's one and the same I suppose. :)

Thanks for the 60/40 tip. I will make a note of that.
 
Krusher said:
@cilegray, that sounds like a neat trick. Do you have any suggestions like 10% compound to 90% adhesive, etc? Difficult to remove is OK, but their adhesive is more like epoxy right now.

I finished my assembly today with the Schottky Barrier diodes, and @1.8A the 1N5404's pretty much match that chart above @0.81V measured. My 1N5822's were 0.39V; so it takes twice as many diodes and the heat is more spread-out. (But you lose the ability to test Blu-Ray diodes). They eventually get hot without a heat sink anyway, but water boils on the resistor long before I can get it to evaporate on the diodes. For me; I'm fine without a heat sink for non-continuous testing. I also soldered all of the hot components (diodes and resistor) slightly off the board so it doesn't cook it as much.

@ Jufran88--it works out great but I had one suggestion if possible. Make the through holes a little bigger for the diodes, resistor, and load terminals. Right now, they all fit tight.

I used to be a tech for Marquette electronics (6 months fixing Medical boards) and I never had a board where the component's leads fit snugly...you want a little space for soldering and de-soldering with a solder sucker. (There should be some space between the wires and the hole for a vacuum to pull the solder out).

Anyway, it's a great little board for the money and you might want to put something in the pro section so you get more visibility.

Happy soldering!
Click to expand...

I'm glad you like it! I'll take your suggestion in consideration. I've soldered many of these and the solder wicks up the leads pretty well. :beer:
 
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