FS:  Matched Sets --SOLD--

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

pseudolobster said:

[quote author=Wesdaman14 link=1215317897/20#25 date=1216172829]...He also ships very fast and don't use "Snail Mail"

Click to expand...

On a side note, I didn't know Jake21 *emailed* people lasers... anyone?[/quote]
That cracked me up! Imagine getting a laser sent to you by email... ;D

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

Spyderz20x6 said:

[quote author=pseudolobster link=1215317897/20#31 date=1216261276]
[quote author=Wesdaman14 link=1215317897/20#25 date=1216172829]...He also ships very fast and don't use "Snail Mail"

Click to expand...

On a side note, I didn't know Jake21 *emailed* people lasers... anyone?[/quote]
That cracked me up! Imagine getting a laser sent to you by email... ;D[/quote]


i could imagine that would hurt your eyes a bit ;D

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

bobobob121 said:

[quote author=Spyderz20x6 link=1215317897/20#32 date=1216270660][quote author=pseudolobster link=1215317897/20#31 date=1216261276]
[quote author=Wesdaman14 link=1215317897/20#25 date=1216172829]...He also ships very fast and don't use "Snail Mail"

Click to expand...

On a side note, I didn't know Jake21 *emailed* people lasers... anyone?[/quote]
That cracked me up! Imagine getting a laser sent to you by email... ;D[/quote]


i could imagine that would hurt your eyes a bit ;D[/quote]


That would add an entirely new aspect to the warning, "Don't open attachments from people you don't know."

Peace,
dave

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

The 140mW "lonely" blu-ray is SOLD

Payment is pending on the second Matched Set

Only the BIG BURNERS are left. Checkout the deal that they are a 170mW blu-ray burner and a 250mW red burner, BOTH lasers in a carrying/storage case only $350, shipped in the US. That's a $460 value (if purchased separately) for only $350!

Peace,
dave

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning Red

Those look awesome! I really like the host. If you don't mind me asking, where'd you get it? I would really consider buying a set but I already have a red burner and I want my first Blu-Ray to be something special and build it myself. Those look very nicely crafted and I can't believe that you were able to squeeze 170mW out of a Blu-Ray! Nice Job!

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

50Freestyle said:

Those look awesome! I really like the host. If you don't mind me asking, where'd you get it? I would really consider buying a set but I already have a red burner and I want my first Blu-Ray to be something special and build it myself. Those look very nicely crafted and I can't believe that you were able to squeeze 170mW out of a Blu-Ray! Nice Job!

Click to expand...

Thank you. I try to build lasers that I would like to own myself.

I found these hosts in a hunting supply catalog that I get. I have not been able to find the exact host again. I usually don't re-use a host anyway. This is a hobby for me. One of the things I enjoy is figuring out how to fit the needed components into a host. I built one of the very first "pocket sized" blu-rays. http://www.laserpointerforums.com/forums/YaBB.pl?num=1211752819 I built these to experiment with and learn how to make the head "modular."

I will use the same host two (maybe three) times if I like it, but usually as soon as I finish a laser (or in this case an entire set of lasers) I start looking for my next host. I have been through six since I finished these that I do NOT like for a host. I give alott of small flashlights to friends as gifts I want each laser built by me to be at minimum rare. Most are unique. When you buy a laser from me, you know that you won't run into a bunch of other people with the same laser as you.

The exception to this is the MXDL builds that I do my experiments in. The components are readily available and Jayrob already makes quality heat sinks for them. When I am pushing the edge of output, it is usually in an MXDL build with a Jayrob heat sink. Both of the highest power units I mentioned (180mW and 185mW) are in MXDL's. Only after I am confident in the ability to run the diode at the high output power will I consider putting it into a new host for sale.

However, if you like the look of these lasers, this host is very similar. http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.79 The head is a little slimmer, but the look is the same. The heat sinks in my build were custom made so you will have to figure out a heat sink for it. However, if you keep the output of your build below about 150mW then the slimmer head and smaller heat sink, should be fine.

I have done a significant amount of experimentation with this diode. My personal blu-ray, built with this diode, puts out 180mW. I am running tests on an new one that is putting out 185mW. Good heat sinking and keeping to a duty cycle is needed with them, but this is no more restrictive than the heat sinking and duty cycles that we are already using with our high powered red burners.

When you get ready to build your blu-ray, there is a significant amount of help here in the forum. We will help.

Peace,
dave

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

From Daves post above (Didn't wanna take up alot of room with a quote)

Click to expand...

I have seen that host on DX and was really considering using it. If I do use that host, which I probably will, I know it'll be a tuff heatsink to make due to the rounded out head. Maybe I'll be able to work out something with a couple different size washers and maybe some thermal conducting silicone to fill in the spaces. I don't really plan on driving my diode over 100mA because I mainly want it for the looks and lifetime and not so much the burning power so I won't need a super duper heatsink plus I never run my lasers constantly, I normally run them on short bursts less than a minute for something like a "ooooo, look over there, maybe I can make that glow (Click on and try then click off)" or "wow, look at the beam int he night sky (Stare for the beautiful moment the shut it off)". I don't like the look of the MXDL host for a Blu-Ray, maybe because black doesn't really compliment the color of the beam, I like a silvery color. That and it's kinda long, I like it to fit in my pocket nicely. My only worry about building a Blu-Ray is soldering the diode pins to the driver, I don't want to keep the soldering iron on there for too long or the diode is toast. Other than that I should be fine with everything else. I know that when I do build my Blu-Ray I'll be able to come on this forum and ask questions and know that I am getting answers from real people who do this sort of stuff all the time. I know that this forum has plenty info to offer, I've learned a ton from here (My profile may be new but I've been coming on this forum for a long time but I just never felt the need to make a profile until I started wanting to make my own laser). With all that said I have two questions about the host:
1. Is it easy to work with?
2. Does everything fit inside nicely without any modification of the host?

Thanks alot!  

P.S. Sorry I didn't space this all out to make it easier to read :'(

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

50Freestyle said:

From Daves post above (Didn't wanna take up alot of room with a quote)

Click to expand...

I have seen that host on DX and was really considering using it. If I do use that host, which I probably will, I know it'll be a tuff heatsink to make due to the rounded out head. Maybe I'll be able to work out something with a couple different size washers and maybe some thermal conducting silicone to fill in the spaces. I don't really plan on driving my diode over 100mA because I mainly want it for the looks and lifetime and not so much the burning power so I won't need a super duper heatsink plus I never run my lasers constantly, I normally run them on short bursts less than a minute for something like a "ooooo, look over there, maybe I can make that glow (Click on and try then click off)" or "wow, look at the beam int he night sky (Stare for the beautiful moment the shut it off)". I don't like the look of the MXDL host for a Blu-Ray, maybe because black doesn't really compliment the color of the beam, I like a silvery color. That and it's kinda long, I like it to fit in my pocket nicely. My only worry about building a Blu-Ray is soldering the diode pins to the driver, I don't want to keep the soldering iron on there for too long or the diode is toast. Other than that I should be fine with everything else. I know that when I do build my Blu-Ray I'll be able to come on this forum and ask questions and know that I am getting answers from real people who do this sort of stuff all the time. I know that this forum has plenty info to offer, I've learned a ton from here (My profile may be new but I've been coming on this forum for a long time but I just never felt the need to make a profile until I started wanting to make my own laser). With all that said I have two questions about the host:
1. Is it easy to work with?
2. Does everything fit inside nicely without any modification of the host?

Click to expand...

Sounds like you have the concept internalized already. You'll do fine. If you keep your diode at that power output level, it will last a good long time and the washer type heat sink should work. Only practice can help with the speed at which you get things un-soldered and soldered again.

As far as ease of working with the host. I designed these to be "modular." I followed this concept.



But using the Rkcstr driver grounded through the case. I had to make the heat sink so that it sicks out just a bit to accommodate the full length of the AixiZ module. With the way I put the heat sink/module together, the host was NOT altered. How "easy" it is, depends on your experience and patience level. I "designed and tweaked" the heads for weeks before I was satisfied with them. Even with that, there are other ideas I will include when/if I make modular heads again.

Peace,
dave

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

Reply from above post

Click to expand...

Thanks alot! You really clarified alot of stuff for me. I should've been more specific when asking the ease of use for the host, the way you described it answered my question as easy to use with virtually no modifications. That diagram kinda confuses me, so what you were saying is that you pretty much just hooked the diode up to one of rkcstr's drivers inside the AxiZ module?

Thanks again,

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

i know it could be better but i made a userbar for the lonely blu-ray!

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

50Freestyle said:

Reply from above post
Thanks alot! You really clarified alot of stuff for me. I should've been more specific when asking the ease of use for the host, the way you described it answered my question as easy to use with virtually no modifications. That diagram kinda confuses me, so what you were saying is that you pretty much just hooked the diode up to one of rkcstr's drivers inside the AxiZ module?

Click to expand...

The driver goes inside the module. The black wire (-) gets soldered to the negative pin on the diode and the diode gets grounded to the case. With direct metal to metal contact, that makes the host the negative path. The white wire (+) goes out the end of the module, through the "insulator" and is capped off with a contact. The head is then screwed on and the battery carriage is in direct contact with the positive cap on the module. Nothing is loose. No wires are exposed. There's nothing to "vibrate" or shake loose. The driver is protected. With this set up not only is the host the negative path, but the entire host is part of the heat sink

They were very interesting to design and build. Now they are in the community at a very good price for two lasers. I had "fun" and a few select people get a new (very rare) matched set of lasers. That feels like a win/win to me

laserlover said:

i know it could be better but i made a userbar for the lonely blu-ray!

Click to expand...

It looks very cool to me. I like it

Peace,
dave

Click to expand...

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning Red

The driver goes inside the module. The black wire (-) gets soldered to the negative pin on the diode and the diode gets grounded to the case. With direct metal to metal contact, that makes the host the negative path. The white wire (+) goes out the end of the module, through the "insulator" and is capped off with a contact. The head is then screwed on and the battery carriage is in direct contact with the positive cap on the module. Nothing is loose. No wires are exposed. There's nothing to "vibrate" or shake loose. The driver is protected. With this set up not only is the host the negative path, but the entire host is part of the heat sink.

Click to expand...

Alright, this is where things get confusing for me. I always thought both the posetive and negative diode pins were soldered to the front end of the driver and you used the Black (-) and White (+) wires to hook up the battery. This method you explaind seems a little more complicated but I see how it would work alot better. Some of the things you explaind I can picture in my head but some I can not. The thing I have most trouble picturing is how you grounded everything and made the host negative. A drawing or picture would really help (Besides the one from the past posts, too confusing). Thanks alot for your help and patience

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

50Freestyle said:

Alright, this is where things get confusing for me. I always thought both the posetive and negative diode pins were soldered to the front end of the driver and you used the Black (-) and White (+) wires to hook up the battery. This method you explaind seems a little more complicated but I see how it would work alot better. Some of the things you explaind I can picture in my head but some I can not. The thing I have most trouble picturing is how you grounded everything and made the host negative. A drawing or picture would really help (Besides the one from the past posts, too confusing). Thanks alot for your help and patience

Click to expand...

The positive and negative of the Rkcstr do get soldered to the pins on the diode. However, you also need to split the black and white wires and route the black wire up to the pins and solder it to the negative as well. In addition, with the blu-ray, you must also solder a link from the negative pin to the case pin. That makes the case of the diode the negative path. The case of the diode is pressed into the module, making electrical contact. The module is in contact with the heat sink. The heat sink is in contact with the head. The head is in contact with the body. And the wheel goes round and round

It is the way most of these flashlights work to begin with. Most of the original electronics don't have a negative "wire" going to the battery carriage. They use the body as the negative path. That's why a "clicky" in the tail can be used to turn it on and off.

Peace,
dave

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning Red

The positive and negative of the Rkcstr do get soldered to the pins on the diode. However, you also need to split the black and white wires and route the black wire up to the pins and solder it to the negative as well.  In addition, with the blu-ray, you must also solder a link from the negative pin to the case pin.  That makes the case of the diode the negative path.  The case of the diode is pressed into the module, making electrical contact.  The module is in contact with the heat sink.  The heat sink is in contact with the head.  The head is in contact with the body.  And the wheel goes round and round    

It is the way most of these flashlights work to begin with.  Most of the original electronics don't have a negative "wire" going to the battery carriage.  They use the body as the negative path.  That's why a "clicky" in the tail can be used to turn it on and off.

Peace,
dave

Click to expand...

Ok, now I'm starting to see it. So the diode is soldered to the (+) and (-) parts of the driver, the black wire is then soldered to the (-) pin on the diode. The part where you solder a connection (Like a wire or something) from the negative diode pin to the case pin is kinda confusing because I've never heard of a case pin but I'm sure it'll be easy to find once I start disassembling/assembling things. I'll really have to be sure that my heatsink fits really tight and I'll probably put small blobs of solder on the heatsink to connect it to the host to ensure a good electrical connection.

Thanks alot for your help, now when I make my Blu-Ray i'll know what i'm doing  

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning

50Freestyle said:

Ok, now I'm starting to see it. So the diode is soldered to the (+) and (-) parts of the driver, the black wire is then soldered to the (-) pin on the diode. The part where you solder a connection (Like a wire or something) from the negative diode pin to the case pin is kinda confusing because I've never heard of a case pin but I'm sure it'll be easy to find once I start disassembling/assembling things. I'll really have to be sure that my heatsink fits really tight and I'll probably put small blobs of solder on the heatsink to connect it to the host to ensure a good electrical connection.

Thanks alot for your help, now when I make my Blu-Ray i'll know what i'm doing

Click to expand...

When you get your parts and begin building, you can find a pinout diagram for which is the positive and which is the negative pins. However, as soon as you look at the back of your diode you will be able to tell which is the case pin. The positive and negative pins have a small black ring where the pin enters the case. This is electrical insulation. The third pin (the case pin) is obviously metal to metal (no black ring).

Peace,
dave

Re: FS:  Matched Sets Burning Blu AND Burning Red

When you get your parts and begin building, you can find a pinout diagram for which is the positive and which is the negative pins.  However, as soon as you look at the back of your diode you will be able to tell which is the case pin.  The positive and negative pins have a small black ring where the pin enters the case.  This is electrical insulation.  The third pin (the case pin) is obviously metal to metal (no black ring).

Peace,
dave

Click to expand...

Oh yea, I knew there was a third pin but I never knew what it was called. Now I fianlly get it! So it basically looks like this:
   
     Diode__   --- Between negative pin and case pin= connection
          _ l__l_
   (-)  l----l    l (+)
      _l\         /_______Soldered connections / or \
   _l   _\___/_
   l     l *     * |   Driver
   l     l           l
   l     l______l      
   l____l    l__________ connected to contact and battery source
 Blk wire         Wht  wire  
(Connected
 to (-) pin)      

Hopefully you can read my diagram, if not I can explain it. So the diode is the very top square and off of that there are three pins, the posetive (+), the negative (-), and the case pin (not labled). A connection is made with solder or something between the negative and case pin labled with ----. The posetive and negative ends of the driver are soldered to the negative (-) and posetive (+) pins on the diode labled by a / or \. The black wire from the diode is also soldered to the negative pin on the diode. The white wire is soldered to any kind of metal contact which connects to the posetive end of the battery source.

I see how it all falls into place now. The negative charge from the battery runs up the host and into the diodes case pin which is connected to the  negative pin which also has the drivers black wire connected to it so the charge flows into the driver. The posetive and negative charges are now both in the driver which then lead to the diode and make it light.

I see how everything works this way now. Thanks so much you've been a great teacher! If all of this sounds right then I am very happy!