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ArcticMyst Security by Avery

FS LaserBee 2.5W

Joined
Jan 26, 2011
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I don't really plan on buying any new lasers for awhile and this is just sitting in a drawer so I'm willing to take offers on it if anyone wants it. Its only been used a handful of times and works great. Thanks for looking

n1rodf.jpg
 





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Dec 29, 2011
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What are you asking for it?

I'm interested, but only for the right price.
 
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$75, plus shipping :)

I know at one point these were $129 retail..

Make me a counter-offer.. :)
 

ARG

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I'll offer you 90$.

@Mednwgs after shipping they are 150$ CND

@smzy322 Were do you live? In the US I presume?
 
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Well, since CAD is like 97% the price of USD, then, we're pretty well on equal bidding if I offer $90US

I'll offer $100USD, shipped (to California)

Edit: BTW.. Love ya, ARG.. I hate doing this to you, but I *really* want to get my hands on a 'bee.. It will come in so handy for me..

Please dont hate me, man :)
 
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ARG

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Well, since CAD is like 97% the price of USD, then, we're pretty well on equal bidding if I offer $90US

I'll offer $100USD, shipped (to California)

Edit: BTW.. Love ya, ARG.. I hate doing this to you, but I *really* want to get my hands on a 'bee.. It will come in so handy for me..

Please dont hate me, man :)

I'm not hating :)

My offer is in USD and i'll counter your offer with 105$ + I pay shipping to Canada. Sorry, but I've been keeping my eye out for a second hand LPM for quite some time now too. :beer:
 
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you guys might want to ask for a sensor picture to see if it even is in good shape :whistle:
 
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Okay. I give.. :bowdown:

The only counter I can make is:

$60, plus an M140 in an aixiz module.. I've fired it up to 1.25A to verify it works, and its frikin' bright.. This would include the focus group (and ring), the back of the module, silicone sheathed wires, everything..

Might be worth it, if smzy is looking for one, and a laughable offer, if he isnt. :)
 
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you guys might want to ask for a sensor picture to see if it even is in good shape :whistle:

There was a pic in the first post.. The leader wires look good, the heatsink looked good, it really seemed in good shape.. No spreading, fraying, graying, or other indications of wear that would make me question the thermopile.

I'm comfortable with my offer given the pic I've seen.. :beer:
 
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There was a pic in the first post.. The leader wires look good, the heatsink looked good, it really seemed in good shape.. No spreading, fraying, graying, or other indications of wear that would make me question the thermopile.

I'm comfortable with my offer given the pic I've seen.. :beer:

i saw the picture :thinking: i didn't see a picture of the sensor head on to look for any burn marks or scratches etc. :beer:
 
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Seriously?

You can paint black back on.. :thinking:

Its a reverse peltier array.. Even if *seriously* abused, your out one, maybe two modules.

theres a dozen or more in a 'Bee thermopile that size.

I stand by my bid.. Its easy to get caught up in details when the underlying technology is not understood.. I have done it (and will do it again, I'm sure) myself.
 
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Seriously?

You can paint black back on.. :thinking:

Its a reverse peltier array.. Even if *seriously* abused, your out one, maybe two modules.

theres a dozen or more in a 'Bee thermopile that size.

I stand by my bid.. Its easy to get caught up in details when the underlying technology is not understood.. I have done it (and will do it again, I'm sure) myself.

hey whatever floats.... your boat AFAIK you can just re-coat it without re-calibrating it too
 
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I gotta agree with bennett here. The coating is pretty important or readings won't be as accurate. If there's any damage and you re-coat, you'll most likely need to recalibrate the meter. The emissivity of a different shade or thicker coating will affect readings.

Maybe Jerry can shed some more light on the subject.
 
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Joined
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I gotta agree with bennett here. The coating is pretty important or readings won't be as accurate. If there's any damage and you re-coat, you'll most likely need to recalibrate the meter. The emissivity of a different shade or thicker coating will be affect readings.

Maybe Jerry can shed some more light on the subject.

i was wondering were jerry is i swear he pops in on every lpm thread :crackup:
 
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hey whatever floats.... your boat AFAIK you can just re-coat it without re-calibrating it too

Hmm.

Well, I use mV, and mA calibration equipment every day, so.. Yeah.. I *can* re-coat it, but using standards I can come up with, and verify against a friends LPM, I have every reason to believe that I can re-calibrate it.

IF the pile is overworked (which I seriously doubt) and IF its out of calibration (Again, I seriously doubt)

I have every resource at my disposal to take care of it.

Like getting a full tune up after you bring a new (used) car home..

I just didnt want to get into this end of the conversation, due to the huge a&&hole, pedantic nature of how it makes me sound.

I know what I'm getting into, and again.. I stand by my bid, with full confidence, LOL..

I honestly do appreciate the 'looking out for the noob' in your posts.. Seriously... Thats what helps keep this fun for everyone just getting into it (Like me...) :friend:

Edit: I work with high temp lab furnaces.. I travel worldwide installing, and certifying them.. Among the instruments we use, the most often used is the IR pyrometer.. Emissivity, single, dual color averaging, black body (4X depth over width in Isocarb 85, or any other carbon solid) We work with 4-20mA signals, loadCells with 3-4mV/V levels, so again, tuning to 20, 30, 40mV tops..

I know I'm a noob here, please dont equate noob = stupid. I actually have a background (going on decades now) involving a lot of the things you're picking at me about.

Sorry for the high horse, but I suddenly feel the need to defend myself here, and its uncomfortable.
 
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